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Author Topic: Clearing Saws  (Read 7054 times)

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Offline SwampDonkey

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #60 on: April 17, 2019, 04:37:32 PM »
 ;D :D :D You know you want one. Go for it! Why not? Be surprised what you need it for. ;)
Move'n on.

Offline Allar

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #61 on: April 18, 2019, 10:04:37 AM »
I have no words to describe how useful brush cutter can be. I'm looking to purchase another one, preferbably husqvarna  :)
I don't buy new stuff because i like to fix things :D
Firewood & Chainsaw videos: Firewood Warrior - YouTube

Offline Pine Ridge

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #62 on: April 18, 2019, 03:28:16 PM »
I've got alot of projects going on right now, if I can get caught up I may just buy me one. Hillside I cleared is about an acre, sure be alot handier than cutting sprouts with a 550xp.
Husqvarna 550xp , 2- 372xp and a 288xp, Chevy 4x4 winch truck

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #63 on: April 18, 2019, 06:04:18 PM »
Got my new harness today. More comfortable than the basic harness. The handlebars are getting a little slop in them. I took them off, and noticed one of the keyed teeth were broken. I'm not even sure why it has a screw like that. It's either on or off, no adjustment. Perhaps it's for quickly taking them off for stowage?  Not a big deal, but I can feel the movement. 

Worked 3 hours today, and it kind of kicked my butt. I'm slashing down through the tops of the sticker banks, and it wears on the arms after awhile. So far, so good. Machine's 30% paid off as of today. It's looking like it'll be paid for before the obnoxiously hot weather gets here  :^)

Offline SwampDonkey

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #64 on: April 19, 2019, 05:03:04 AM »
Keep in mind it is not a pro model, so it will not take the same abuse. ;)

Let the dealer know, that should be warranted.
Move'n on.

Online lxskllr

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #65 on: April 19, 2019, 07:19:17 AM »
Keep in mind it is not a pro model, so it will not take the same abuse. ;)

Let the dealer know, that should be warranted.
I've been using it hard. Let me ask you a question about technique... With the tripoint blade, I've found that attacking the ~1" stalks with authority cuts through them pretty well, where going slow burns through, and makes the wood smoke(I'd actually be concerned about fire if I weren't in wet MD). >1" will take a few hits to get through. Is hitting the stalks with some force acceptable technique, or is that considered abuse?

Offline SwampDonkey

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #66 on: April 19, 2019, 09:46:10 AM »
It's not really for 1" hard stems. So, it would be a bit abusive with that blade. ;) Raspberry, blackberry and red osier dogwood type stuff then yes.

A test of blades, as a side note I would never use a carbide tip blade.

Move'n on.

Offline Air Lad

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #67 on: April 19, 2019, 06:34:47 PM »
Hi
These are some of the blade options available here
The triangle one broke the angle drive box on the end of the stick once when it hit 
a besser block (large brick) which was hiding in the underbrush
An after market one fixed it as the parts for the old Kawasaki were not available
They all have their applications
Cheers

 
Ms 170/260c /039...Husk 142e/240e...Unloved Chinese 51.2cc that hasn't done anything wrong...2 x dead Mculloch's ..Vintage Poulan.. and a vintage Echo that still runs beaut

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #68 on: April 19, 2019, 07:08:56 PM »
Next trip out I'll try the maxi blade. I've been liking the way the tripoint handles stickers, so I haven't used the other blade. I'm guessing the maxi will work better on the stems, but not as good breaking it all down. Maybe I can figure something out that'll handle it all with one blade.

Offline Allar

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #69 on: April 20, 2019, 02:24:06 AM »
With triangle blade, you need to swing it hard, or tap it.   1'' is no problem for that blade.
It's not like you're cutting, more like beating the chunks out of em.

You can try the maxi blade but i think you'll go back to triangle one.

Firewood & Chainsaw videos: Firewood Warrior - YouTube

Offline SwampDonkey

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #70 on: April 20, 2019, 06:19:49 AM »
I'd try the one like a mower blade myself. Less blades more sustained rpms. ;D
Move'n on.

Offline John Mc

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #71 on: April 20, 2019, 08:39:55 PM »
With triangle blade, you need to swing it hard, or tap it.   1'' is no problem for that blade.
It's not like you're cutting, more like beating the chunks out of em.

You can try the maxi blade but i think you'll go back to triangle one.
1" brush or 1" softwood, maybe. Those triangle blades are not good for hardwood. You get tired quickly and beat your machine to death using one cutting buckthorn. For that sort of stuff, the Maxi is my go-to blade.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline Allar

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #72 on: April 21, 2019, 01:51:00 AM »
Well i use it to clear hazelnut and aspen brush around planted trees. First time before planting i had to use maxi blade but because i clear the brush every year, i can use the triangle blade now.

Hazelnut grows so *DanG fast, with in a year it'll be over my head.

Firewood & Chainsaw videos: Firewood Warrior - YouTube

Offline SwampDonkey

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #73 on: April 21, 2019, 06:18:24 AM »
Like John said, in woody stems, the Maxi blade requires less physical effort by the operator. No flailing around with the saw like a sythe. The triblade may work well enough in new growth before it hardens off. Hazel gets hard. We have it here (beaked and witch) sometimes under hardwood or aspen. Up here the mills categorize hardwood as maple, ironwood, oak, beech, birch. Aspen and poplar (Both populus) is categorized by itself because it is soft. It is never mixed in hardwood on truck loads of pulp. Some mills even separate the birch.
Move'n on.

Offline John Mc

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #74 on: April 21, 2019, 10:57:40 AM »
Like John said, in woody stems, the Maxi blade requires less physical effort by the operator. No flailing around with the saw like a sythe. The triblade may work well enough in new growth before it hardens off. Hazel gets hard. We have it here (beaked and witch) sometimes under hardwood or aspen. Up here the mills categorize hardwood as maple, ironwood, oak, beech, birch. Aspen and poplar (Both populus) is categorized by itself because it is soft. It is never mixed in hardwood on truck loads of pulp. Some mills even separate the birch.
Same here. A lot of folks just refer to aspen/poplar as a softwood (they know that's not technically correct, but it separates it from what they consider the "real" hardwoods).
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline Allar

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #75 on: April 22, 2019, 03:21:12 PM »
What about birch?
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Offline John Mc

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #76 on: April 22, 2019, 03:53:09 PM »
What about birch?
Around my area, we have
Black Birch (Betula lenta), also known as Sweet Birch
Yellow Birch (Betula alleghaniensis)
White Birch (Betula papyrifera) also known as Paper Birch
and Gray Birch (Betula populifolia)

White Birch is generally what most people in my area think of if you just say "Birch". Some confuse Gray Birch with White Birch, since they can look similar. (Gray Birch has tightly adhering bark, where White Birch peels off easily in strips.)

On the firewood scale (which is a decent proxy for density of the wood)
  • Black Birch is primo stuff: on par with White Oak and the various Hickories
  • Yellow Birch is a small step down: similar to Red Oak, a bit more dense than White Ash
  • White and Gray Birch are another step down (White beating out Gray) - similar density and heat content to Red Maple, but still a big step up from Aspen/Poplar (some of our of our softwoods beat Aspen significantly for heat content)
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline Woodcutter_Mo

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #77 on: April 23, 2019, 09:11:47 AM »
A good heavy duty trimmer or clearing saw comes in real handy. I have an FS90 and use it with a fair assortment of brush blades, it does a good job but would like to get a slightly more powerful model eventually. For me a brush cutter doesn't hurt my back as much apposed to clearing brush with a chainsaw. And they're (atleast the model I have) very easy on fuel. 

 My favorite blades are: the Stihl "Brush Knife" 3 edged blade for heavy grass and small diameter brush like wild multiflora rose and buck brush
 The Stihl "chisel tooth" saw blade for brush and saplings up to a couple inches in diameter.
 And I now have a Forester chainsaw tooth blade(has semi chisel chainsaw cutter teeth riveted to the blade) which is working good, doesn't bind up in cutting saplings as much due to it's thicker kerf and cutter to plate clearance. Time will tell how it holds up but I really like it so far for cutting thick diameter brush and saplings up to 3". It's not great for grass though. 
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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #78 on: April 23, 2019, 05:15:01 PM »
I got about an hour in with the maxi blade today. It works *really* nice cutting stems and saplings. It's kind of mediocre breaking down the sticker bushes, and the blade got jammed a lot with stuff getting stuck between the blade and the guard. I'll have to spend more time with it, but I think it's my second favorite next to the tripoint. If I were only cutting saplings, it would be the blade to use. I don't care for the 80 tooth blade at all. I'll use it til it's worn out, but it won't be replaced. So far the JB Weld's holding the handlebars. Fingers crossed  :^)

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #79 on: April 24, 2019, 04:17:08 PM »
Maxi blade is out. It's kinda like a chainsaw. Works great when sharp, and virtually useless dull. I hit a couple rocks, and it wouldn't cut after that. Sharpening it wasn't a problem, but adding the jamming issue, and the stuff I'm cutting, I switched back to the tripoint. I'm still considering a shredder blade. I'm thinking I have enough horsepower to run it as long as I'm reasonable regarding my target. I won't be tearing down saplings like the video above, but sticker bushes shouldn't be too hard on the unit.


Got another 3.5 hours in today. That seems to be about my limit. That work really kills me. Fighting with vines, getting tangled, and doing a lot of manhandling of the machine... I'm using a lot arm muscle to swing it around. It's also a little demotivating to see green stuff coming up from the piles I previously cut. I miss some vines, and don't see them til the ones I cut turn brown. Everything also looks like a disaster zone. Brush and saplings laying everywhere. Hopefully, once the hard stuff's done, it'll just be a matter of hitting spots here and there to keep the junk down til it dies. Maybe someone else can pick it up with a string trimmer.


Plus side, my JB Weld is holding up. Minus, is I lost two of the screws I locktited in. I may have to start buying screws by the case  :^D  I'll try it again, and if I lose them again, I guess I'll have to get the heavy hold formula. I wasn't sure which to get when I was buying. I didn't want a hassle when I have to remove the shield, but maybe the regular isn't strong enough. Still gettin' it, and the machine's about 48% paid off. I'll be happy if I make it into the profit zone, even if only by a smidge  :^)


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