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Author Topic: End Grain  (Read 4066 times)

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Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: End Grain
« Reply #20 on: May 22, 2009, 10:40:23 AM »

 I'm fixin to experiment with drying some pieces, and then see how badly they check.

  Need to find a supply of alcohol and see how that goes, also.

  Hope small pieces will give accurate results compared to large ones, but, I'm doubtful.
 Large = larger problems  ::) ::)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: End Grain
« Reply #21 on: May 22, 2009, 04:16:14 PM »

 According to my Moisture Meter, the table top is at 26%.  ::) ::) ::) It rains a little every day, now. The shop is NOT moisture proof ::)

  Place I sanded down through the checks, yesterday, are not showing any sign of checking. The other areas, where I didn't go through the checks, but, DID remove all the sealer, I can feel the checks on my finger as I run them across the wood.

  Need to find a BIG plastic bag with no holes, for an experiment  ::) ::)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Offline CHARLIE

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Re: End Grain
« Reply #22 on: May 23, 2009, 12:09:13 AM »
I've had some small cracks in a rough turned bowl once and tried something I read about. I diluted wood glue in water and then threw the bowl into the bucket. The water made it swell shut and the glue it soaked up kept it from cracking again when I slowly dried it out.

Just a thought.
Charlie
"Everybody was gone when I arrived but I decided to stick around until I could figure out why I was there !"

Offline getoverit

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Re: End Grain
« Reply #23 on: May 26, 2009, 06:43:03 PM »
Harold,
I use a specialty epoxy that can be found at most boating stores to gap fill the instruments I build. It is called West System III epoxy and works wonders for what you are trying to do. There is another product called Z-Poxy finishing resin that works equally well, but has a yellow tint to it.

Any good 30 minute epoxy should do the trick if you can find it though. If you have trouble finding what you need, send me an IM and I'll send you some.

Another good tip that I can offer is that most epoxies will thin really well using denatured alcohol. This will allow them to flow into the cracks easier.
I'm a lumberjack and I'm ok, I work all night and sleep all day

Offline Ironwood

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Re: End Grain
« Reply #24 on: May 26, 2009, 07:03:43 PM »
I use West System also, Great tech support as well. It is at the upper end of the continum in hardness/ brittleness. FYI

 Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: End Grain
« Reply #25 on: May 26, 2009, 07:31:07 PM »

 Thanks guys. I'm plenty familiar with West System.  Ken, shipping would kill us.  ::) ::) >:(

  I been sawing for a couple 3 days, and too taard to mess with it when I get home.  ::) ::)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Offline fstedy

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Re: End Grain
« Reply #26 on: May 27, 2009, 12:44:10 AM »
Someone posted a acetone and plexiglass formulia a while back for hardening spalted wood for turning pens. Might be worth a try from what I remember they put acetone in a glass jar with a lid then added plexiglass shavings then let them sit until the plastic disolved. You could make the mix so it would have the proper  viscosity to flow into the cracks.
Timberking B-20   Retired and enjoying every minute of it.
Former occupations Electrical Lineman, Airline Pilot, Owner operator of Machine Shop, Slot Machine Technician and Sawmill Operator.
I know its a long story!!!


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