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Author Topic: 3 point hitch splitter question  (Read 5351 times)

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Offline yellowrosefarm

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Re: 3 point hitch splitter question
« Reply #20 on: March 29, 2013, 04:48:40 PM »
  My "older" tractor is a 1956 JD620 while my "newer" tractor is a 1988 JD 2355, both are plenty heavy and both will hold the weight on the 3 pt pretty well but today an old JD man told me the 620 should use an open center valve and the 2355 should use a closed center valve so I'll try to figure out what the splitter has and go from there. I would prefer to use the 620 just because I love the sound and could use another excuse to run it!

The splitter valve is most likely open center as they are far more common. The way to tell is to blow through the "in" port. If it's open center, the air will pass right through and come out the "out" port. If it's closed center, you will not be able to blow through it.  Not sure about the 620 as regrettably, I've never had or worked on one. The 2355 is closed center. I have one and I've worked on a few. I find it annoying since if I forget an leave the loader up when I shut it off, I can't let it down without starting the tractor again. And, all the "cheap$" implements are open center. I use my splitter on a JD750, a Yanmar in disguise, which is an open center 18hp diesel. It uses less fuel than the 5hp Briggs and Stratton on my tow behind.
If anyone is interested, open center means oil moves through the control valve all the time the pump is running. When you move the handle, oil is diverted to the implement. With closed center, the oil only moves when the control handle is moved. To make that happen, the closed center pump is a lot more complicated and costly. They are around $1000+, open centers are more like 300. Most newer open center valves can be converted to closed center by adding a plug.

Offline gspren

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Re: 3 point hitch splitter question
« Reply #21 on: March 29, 2013, 05:08:47 PM »
  The splitter has an old Gresen 575 valve which research says is open centered so should be good on 620. The JD man that told me about the open/closed systems said if you use an open valve on the 2355 it will over heat the Hyd oil, I didn't ask how fast but I will. I still want to change the Hyd oil in the 620 because it might just be motor oil but I can't figure out where to drain it! I ordered a operator manual because my IT repair manual doesn't show where the drain is. There's a bunch of plugs with adjustment parts behind and nothing is obvious like the engine oil drain is.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, JD 2355 4X4 w/fel, JD 620, Yamaha Kodiak 400 & trailer, Kubota 400 RTV,  P&M OWB, 75 acres to play.

Online beenthere

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Re: 3 point hitch splitter question
« Reply #22 on: March 29, 2013, 06:56:20 PM »
2 plugs for oil draining the tranny.
# 27 in pic, hex heads with aluminum washer # 26

 

 
south central Wisconsin
 It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Offline gspren

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Re: 3 point hitch splitter question
« Reply #23 on: March 29, 2013, 09:35:09 PM »
 beenthere, on the 620 the powertroll hydraulics are separate from the transmission.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, JD 2355 4X4 w/fel, JD 620, Yamaha Kodiak 400 & trailer, Kubota 400 RTV,  P&M OWB, 75 acres to play.

Online beenthere

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Re: 3 point hitch splitter question
« Reply #24 on: March 29, 2013, 11:05:45 PM »
Okay, then did you find the powertroll reservoir? Where the dip stick is to measure oil level? and where you add oil ?

There is a plug just like the tranny under it. A hex head too.

Which model 620 is it? The orchard 620 has a separate reservoir, I believe.

The other models have the reservoir in the rockshaft and powershaft housing. There is a drain plug below it too.

Give us a pic under the rockshaft housing, and maybe we can point it out. Hopefully....
south central Wisconsin
 It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Offline gspren

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Re: 3 point hitch splitter question
« Reply #25 on: April 03, 2013, 04:04:53 PM »
  OK, I got it all figured out now that I got an operators manual. There are 5 drain plugs on the bottom and the Hyd drain and the pto clutch drain both looked like possibilities and when I first tried the hyd drain it looked thick and black while the dipstick showed clean which made me stop after the first few ounces thinking gear oil. Now that I knew which plug I tried again and the first 2 quarts or so were black and then got clear so I was really over due to change this. After changing the oil I hooked up the splitter and was pleased with the operation, I only split for about an hour but it worked. At a bit over half throttle the ram takes about 9-10 seconds whether splitting something or not and that's fast enough for this old man, if I had a helper I'd rev it up some. After splitting I felt very little heat in the lines.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, JD 2355 4X4 w/fel, JD 620, Yamaha Kodiak 400 & trailer, Kubota 400 RTV,  P&M OWB, 75 acres to play.


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