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Author Topic: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed  (Read 2157 times)

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Offline slewpumper

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How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« on: March 03, 2007, 03:22:05 PM »
 I have seen alot of discussion about diff. types of sawmill sheds and sizes but don't hear much talk on the hoopshelters. I plan on putting a 38' X 72' this summer. I will have the roll up sides and 8' skylight through the top. I think this will make an Ideal shed for the money. Any thoughts  ??? Thanks.
 
here is a link if you aren't sure what I am talking about.

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Offline Furby

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2007, 04:13:22 PM »
Seems like it would be too hard to move lumber and logs.
Small scale setup for hobby type stuff would work fine, but anything else and it's asking for trouble.

Offline Larry

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #2 on: March 03, 2007, 04:29:17 PM »
Missouri highway department has been putting similar ones up for salt and sand storage.  They sit on a short concrete block wall.  There big enough to get dump trucks and high loaders in.

Tobacco farmers build hoop houses to raise plants in...most of ours are home made.  My house is about 5 years old and only maintenance was patching a few holes from a big hail storm.

Might be tax advantages also...we pay property tax on any permanent structure.  Hoop houses dont get taxed....cause there tents but still eligible for depreciation.

Im thinking about buying two 48' containers.  Set them 24' apart and hooking them together with a hoophouse...Farmtec has got a little picture in there catalog showing the set up.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

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Offline 1countryboy

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2019, 09:24:05 PM »
A lot of the hoop structures for agriculture.  Dairy barns that are huge.  Machinery and hay storage.   Ones with pony walls and posts secured in the ground are considered permanent and taxed as such.  Pony walls made with Concrete blocks(4 by6) and usually 3 high + height of 2 ft each = 6 ft concrete walls and then anchored with lags have been considered temporary and not taxed.....((so far)).  Lots of light and one or both ends can be closed if needed.  These concrete wall will stand the abuse thrown at them.   Wind could be an issue in extreme conditions.  
Ohio Certified Tree Farm, Ohio (almost there, Centennial Farms)

Online Southside

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2019, 09:30:40 PM »
How are you thinking of orienting your mill?  Is there a way to set up the shelter - or at least a part of it - on a beam so you can use a log deck - be it powered or just a dead deck - to get your logs to the mill so you can have the mill running the long way?  Then lumber can come off and not have to make a big arc to progress further into your building.  Saves a tremendous amount of floor space not having to rotate lumber inside all the time. 
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Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2019, 09:45:20 PM »
Larry,

   Your plan sounds a lot like we did in Iraq and Afghanistan. We'd set 2 40' connexs parallel to each other then build a roof or pull shade between for a work area in between and it worked real well for us. Good storage in the containers and covered/shaded storage in between. Good luck
Howard Green
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Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline charles mann

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2019, 10:06:08 PM »
 

 

 

 

 

 U

Here is the conex shop using 2 20 footers with an r panel roof instead our cammo net covers in sand lots. 
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Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #7 on: March 05, 2019, 11:05:27 PM »
Charles, 

  We never extended the roof all the way across the containers. They were waterproof so unless you are doing it for shade I don't see the purpose of covering them. We just tack welded the trusses to the inside edge of the container roof. 
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline millwright

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2019, 06:05:26 AM »
There are several large hoop buildings around here use for equipment maint and workshops. They seem to hold up real well, considering the large snow loads we have. Snow slides off good but you have to keep it from piling up high on the sides

Offline DMcCoy

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2019, 08:18:22 AM »
I've got 15 - 30'x96' greenhouses + narrower ones in a snow zone.  Our worst winter was 24" in 36 hrs.  I lost 2 (weaker) houses that year, and had to scrape the snow off some of the others.  A 38' half round is really wide if you get any snow. You should consider the top of a half round as 'flat' and the snow will sag the frame making the 'flat' area even wider making a self-reinforcing problem that can lead to collapse.  I have heard a few stories of people narrowly escaping a greenhouse collapse from snow by going inside to knock the snow off.  Not smart, always work from the outside.  
 The Gothic peaked ones tend to shed snow better. My best 30' wides are Agritech with 2 3/8" tubes, 2 of these have trussing. These are 20 lb. per square foot snow load and 70 mph wind load.  If I had it to do over I would only buy the heavier frames, I never worry about them, and have never had to scrape snow off of them trussed or not.

For clear span covered space tube frames are hard to beat.  If snow is an issue for you, or wind, then engineered structures with trussed frames are better.  Side access is not standard, and hard to do wide openings.  I have seen it done but mine don't have that.

We use 6mil 4yr greenhouse clear poly tops that normally last us 7-9 yrs. about $400 a 50'x100' roll.  We cover them with 47% shade cloth during summer.  All have roll up sidewalls.  I use wiggle wire and channel to hold it on.

I have built far more greenhouses than I care to remember.  Set your corner posts first, get your measurements accurate(!).  

Offline charles mann

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2019, 10:03:50 AM »
Charles,

  We never extended the roof all the way across the containers. They were waterproof so unless you are doing it for shade I don't see the purpose of covering them. We just tack welded the trusses to the inside edge of the container roof.
Mine arent water proof. Havent welded the pin holes up yet. But, covering the conexes was cheaper than cover just the center, then extended the roof a few ft off the ends, PLUS, it was easier to cover the entire thing, than make a cut here, make a cut there, splice this, splice that. It also gives me some extra storage above the conexes with the 16 of hight above the cans. 
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Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: How about a hoop shelter for sawmill shed
« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2019, 10:17:16 AM »
   Its probably cooler with that space up there too. We used to stack connexs offset with 6-8 feet overhang from the top one to the bottom one. Gave us a landing on front to stand and work on and gave us a shaded area in the back. Of course you did not want to store all the china plates and bricks at the back and the dryer sheets on front of the top connex. Storing a 20' on top of a 40' connex worked well too. 
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"


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