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Author Topic: 2008 e classic 2300  (Read 2902 times)

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Offline doctorb

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #20 on: October 27, 2015, 02:38:39 PM »
I didn't find that the new fusion chamber refit was tough at all.  10 minutes.  You might have to smack it a few times.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Offline stratford 50

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #21 on: October 27, 2015, 07:16:15 PM »
Hi DoctorB, did you find any operational improvements with the updated fusion ceramic once installed?

Offline doctorb

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #22 on: October 28, 2015, 03:31:14 PM »
I do not yet know about the "operation" of the updated fusion module.  I installed mine after last year's heating season was over, during the end-of-the-year maintenance.  I have yet to fire up my 2300 this year.  Usually start between Nov 15 and Thanksgiving.  I was happy to get rid of the metal rods / bars in the old design.  Had to replace them several times over and they often would get knocked out of place during ash clean out from the firebox.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Offline boilerman101

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #23 on: October 29, 2015, 11:18:04 PM »
Should be able to get under the edge of the refractory with hook end of wonder bar and lift out. Probably broken or cracked anyway. Should come out of firebox easily. Discard all the refractory and grate rods from the firebox. Just drop the new half moon target refractor wide side up down along the air box

Offline Logging logginglogging

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #24 on: November 03, 2015, 10:35:39 AM »
Wow,
I shall take some measurements... I am sure I can make those parts up no problem

Offline Roger2561

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #25 on: November 03, 2015, 10:58:36 AM »
Roger-

The panels cost about $50-60.  Never been one to tell others how or when to spend their money, but with cutting and shaping and threading the bolt holes and having to do it for both the left and right sides of the stove, I'd suggest just purchasing these panels.  The real work is the cutout.  Once that's done it's easy.  Just my thoughts.

doctorb - For reasons only known to Central Boiler, they are not making those panels for the E-Classic 1400's.  Thus the reason to manufacture something myself.  But, I agree, if they did offer them for the 1400's, the $50.00/60.00 dollar price tag is reasonable.   
Roger

Offline charger arms

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #26 on: November 27, 2015, 09:44:22 AM »
Just found my replacement air channels. The Part number ends with 65, so I must have the wrong one. No wonder mine didn't look like Doc's.


Offline doctorb

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #27 on: November 27, 2015, 10:11:12 AM »
Fired up my 2009 2300 two days ago and had my first reads on the new reaction chamber fit.  My impression is that it works better than before.  Had no trouble taking the water temp from 62 degrees to 185 in 3 hours.  Still need a deeper and more "mature" coal bed to check how it runs when under full load, but my initial opinion is that the stove is working very well with this "new" retrofit.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Offline doctorb

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #28 on: November 28, 2015, 10:31:17 AM »
Just a "learning curve" note.....

My 2300 has been burning fine, and I went out to scrape the sides and keep the airholes open, like I always do, before reloading when the firebox is a bit more empty.  I use a narrow scraper to get right on the face of the air holes.  With the new plates installed, my scraper hit one of the bolt heads that sticks out from the plate (see previous pics), and I jarred the plate from its position.  I let the fire burn down and was able to reinstall the plate, but I think I am going to have to be more cautious when scraping from this point on.....
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."

Offline garret

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #29 on: November 29, 2015, 09:24:11 AM »
I too have an issue scraping the fouled removable plates on having to avoid bumping the acorn nuts with the hoe provided.  Although my EC2400 doesn't seem to suffer any permanent primary air blockage because the deposits eventually burn off the thin-gauge stainless steel.  The air channel design in the newer model has what I refer to as "reserve capacity" for the refractory residue that tends to accumulate over time and eventually restrict airflow.  When all else fails the removable plates are, well, removable.  Having to let the furnace cool to remove or replace an inadvertently dislodged plate sounds like a pain.

I'm on my second heating season and third month of operation.  Now that the honeymoon is over, I have been less carefully managing the furnace and found that the unit runs quite well under less supervision.  This will be my new approach. 
E-Classic 2400 comfortably heating 4,200 sq.ft. and unlimited DHW, Off-grid, Photovoltaic-powered pumps in gloomy SW PA , 34 t splitter, numerous Husky chainsaws

Offline charger arms

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #30 on: November 29, 2015, 06:52:02 PM »
Fired up my 2009 2300 two days ago and had my first reads on the new reaction chamber fit.  My impression is that it works better than before.  Had no trouble taking the water temp from 62 degrees to 185 in 3 hours.  Still need a deeper and more "mature" coal bed to check how it runs when under full load, but my initial opinion is that the stove is working very well with this "new" retrofit.

I added the new chamber as well this fall. I am fairly happy with the operation and I also noticed a much faster 55-185 climb. I am thinking that the unit is burning better and using less wood. The cold snap (for Kansas) has given it a good little workout.

Offline doctorb

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Re: 2008 e classic 2300
« Reply #31 on: November 29, 2015, 10:13:48 PM »
After knocking the installed panel loose with my scraper twice, I have made a small adjustment in its installation.  Im not saying this will work, but may impression is that the panel is held much more tightly than before.

The problem is that the panel is fixed, by bolt pressure, by the tabs at the end of the panel which sit inside the air chamber wall.  This can be easily seen on the pics above.  The tabs fit into the ends of the cutout, and the bolts push the panels to press them against the tabs and the opening that was cut.  Simple enough.

My problem was that by hitting the head of the bolt with my scraper I was driving the panel further into or back into the channel, leaving the tab at the door end of the panel "uncovered".  If this occurs, the door end of the panel shifts back into the firebox and the whole channel configuration is lost.

When I was originally tightening the bolts, they became very tight as if I had tightened them all the way down to the panel.  This is what the previous pics show.  This did not apply much pressure onto the panel as the bolts needed a little more length to "push" harder.  Today, I replaced the 1 1/2 inch 5/16 bolts with 2" bolts.  The fit seems much tighter now and the stove is running like it was brand new.  Yes, these bolt heads stick up even further than the originals, and I am going to have to be careful not to knock them with the scraper.  But, overall, the panel seems well fixed now.  I would suggest this trick to anybody looking for a cheap fix for panel loosening.
My father once said, "This is my son who wanted to grow up and become a doctor.  So far, he's only become a doctor."


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