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Author Topic: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question  (Read 3045 times)

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Offline OffGrid973

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Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« on: February 08, 2018, 07:27:08 PM »
Hey team,

Just put some new shoes on my trailer, picked up new wiring harness on amazon that came with a junction box (great score) and rewire happens this weekend.

Need help on the design for ramps off the side and snatch block setup.  Any pics of hinges and ramps working well especially over wheel wells?

How about snatch block, best to use a tow strap and let the block float in the middle to self straighten?

Anything not to do?  Thanks for replies and comments.  And yes I have read the thread on this curious on working details now.

 

 

 
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Offline justallan1

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2018, 10:03:59 PM »
After using my trailer for parbuckling something that I plan to do is re-enforce the fenders before I smash them. My plan is to make a rectangle the size of the top surface area of each fender and support in from the outside edge of that and down to the edge of the trailer deck.
I have a winch on an outrigger pole on one side of my trailer and put my ramps on the opposite side. The winch sits about 4-5 foot high, so my cables don't drag on the trailer at any time.
You can kind of see my out rigger. It spins to pick things up when I need and because I used to have a mill on this trailer and it was great for turning logs. If I swing it towards the far side of the trailer (where I put my ramps) my cables never touch a thing.
 

 

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #2 on: February 10, 2018, 08:05:25 PM »
Great setup, this is what I was looking to see.  What size stock did you use for the lift and how is it mounted to the side? Screwed down to the deck or welded right to the frame?  I am not sure how much strength it needs since its rolling logs,  not a straight pull.
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Offline justallan1

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #3 on: February 10, 2018, 09:25:40 PM »
I'd boxed together 2 pieces of 2x4 channel and mounted them on the spare tire rack which is welded to the trailer. Inside of that I put a chunk of pipe that's probably 3", then made the "arm" out of a single piece of 2x4 channel and added a gusset. I have a HF 2,000 lb. winch that will roll a 24"x16' log up without much trouble, but would recommend something a bit bigger. I'd made 6' ramps and a couple people here suggested making them longer and I'm glad I did, I made them 8' and they work fine.

Bad picture, but you can see the winch mounted on the vertical post and at the end of the arm there is a small pulley/snatchblock that is right in line with the angle of the ramps. I made it so I could swivel the outrigger out of my way and have a walkway beside the mill.

 
Here's what I started with. The little mill is gone, but the outrigger and ramps come in handy and never leave the trailer.

 

Offline Kwill

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #4 on: February 10, 2018, 09:54:00 PM »
That's a pretty handy setup
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2018, 08:07:26 PM »
Alright I need to take some build photos as I go through trial and error.   Thanks again for the photos, very helpful.  Anyone else with added ideas please reply or comments on what doesnt work so I can avoid an epic fail lol
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2018, 05:52:06 PM »
  Update:

1) Winch mount welded in to handle big logs
2) Fresh coat of truck liner (discounted from Walmart, $20 a gallon)
3) Santas little helper Sled where cable goes through, around first foot of log, keeps cables from getting chewed up by dragging and gets trees off the ground for hangups.

Next steps are installing winch and Checking how the sled works.

Phase 2 - parbuckle off the sides up 6x6 black locust beams that will stay on the trailer.
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Offline jwh f-100

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2018, 08:55:32 PM »
My vision is parbuckle ramps with feet on them. Like hockey sticks. Rather than a winch somehow use bottle jacks (like a engine hoist) or a trailer jack to lift each ramp to level/horizontal..
Why buy it when you can build it.

Offline justallan1

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2018, 04:46:53 PM »
My vision is parbuckle ramps with feet on them. Like hockey sticks. Rather than a winch somehow use bottle jacks (like a engine hoist) or a trailer jack to lift each ramp to level/horizontal..
Someone here had done pretty much that exact thing. The top of the ramps were bolted or pinned onto the trailer or mill track (I forget), you roll the log on and at the bottom of the ramps he had joined them with metal or a chain and picked it up with a handy-man jack until he could roll the log on.

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2018, 04:57:56 PM »
Found it!
Here's what 21incher did on his mill. Looks like it would work the same on a trailer and then just flip it onto the load for traveling down the road.

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2018, 10:15:36 PM »
Picked up a truck crane which gets welded to the trailer on Monday with a drop jack for stabilization.

Winch is working great just need to finalize on the Skidding Tongs that I will attach to the knuckle boom.  

Anyone worked with these Earth Worth tongs before?  Any concern when lifting an entire log, maybe a 1k or 2k max lift weight?

https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Worth-Skidding-Swivel-Tongs/dp/B077XR9ZHM#



 
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Offline barbender

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2018, 11:07:40 PM »
The Earth Worth description says they are designed to be not only functional, but also stylish!😂 I have a set of chinese tongs like that, that I have put through a ton of abuse, and haven't managed to break them. 
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2018, 11:10:49 PM »
That crane of yours means you dont have to parbuckle.  You have lots more options.  I had a extendable 15 foot truck service crane mounted on my trailer, and loved it.  It would dead lift 3,000 lb over the side, fish for logs a long way off, or drag the super heavies up the tailgate like a ramp.   A crane gives lots of control, and all our have to do is put a piece of plate steel on your trailer ramp instead of the mesh to help the logs slide up it.  I used a slip chain hook, no tongs and with a slip hook I could jiggle the crane boom up and down and unhook the log without having to touch anything, sometimes.  I wasnt a big fan of tongs because they might come loose when slacked, and with a crane and overhead lifting, I didnt want to chance it.  Some of the easiest and fastest ways of getting logs on the trailer involve slacking the cable and chain occasionally.  Tongs will work, however, just dont get under them.




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Offline Cranbrooksawyer

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2018, 11:05:23 AM »
 <Hello from Canada.
Here are some pictures or the recovery trailer I built last winter. The hydraulic winch is a Braden 10,000 lb that needed brgs and a lot of cleaning to get it to work. I wanted a hydraulic winch because electric winches are limited to the time that it takes to draw the battery down. I have 800 ft of 3/8th " cable on the drum and it is powered by a 9 hp Honda engine. The A frame tubing is all 1/8th" wall thickness. All the rigging folds down flat when not loaded and is pinned in place with 5/8th" hitch pins. The rigging can be removed in about a half hour if I want to use it as a regular dump trailer.  My primary purpose for building this was to recover the unused logs after regular logging activities were completed. My biggest problem that I am working on is with all the weight on the front of the trailer I can not dump the load without using the winch tied to a tree. The box size is 6' by 10'. 
I hope this helps.

 

 

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #14 on: September 16, 2018, 06:10:28 PM »
Thats a nice crane you got...and the setup is perfect for your design.  I am mounting to the side that is closest to my mill so I can swing and drop right on the rails when backed in.

The gentleman said he could lift engines no problem on his service truck so I am excited to give it the run through after the install tomorrow.

Sliding up the back was always my plan but these cranes are expensive.  I picked this up for $500 last week, was thrilled when we tested it and saw the power it had and that everything worked.  Manual extension on the knuckle when needed, just want to see the distance I can get.

Staying away from tongs is key, I may have to investigate your cable method a little more, but having those Stilish Earths should get me some credit with...(I give up, ha ha)
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #15 on: September 18, 2018, 11:56:57 AM »
I didnt know the name for it when i loaded without the aid of my tractor. I placed my gn parallel to the logs, and used 8 8 long 6 treated fence posts (will not do that again) for ramps. Chained off to the rub rail, fished the chains under the log, bridling the chains near center of length and hooked to the chains with a snatched 2500# atv winch. 

Once the log was just barely on the ramps, chocked it, shortened the chains to ensure i wouldnt run out of cable prior to the log being on the trailer where i could chock it while rearranging my gear to move log into final position and keeping the winch cable running under the first log for the nect log/s. 

I found that using an arch was more user friendly foor my applications of loading extremely heavy logs, especially the canopy section, that tends not to roll to easy, or not being able to position myself parallel to the log/s due to terrain or vegetation in the way. 


I do like the hydraulic winching option. Iv already burned out the brakes on my 12,000# winch and affraid the same happening to my 18,000#. I may look into a pto driven 20,000-30,000 # winch. 
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #16 on: September 19, 2018, 05:07:35 PM »
Crane all hooked up...Time to make my Into The Suburbs movie for youtube and show it in action.  Coat of paint and some final wiring then we take it for a test run.



 

 

 

 
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #17 on: September 21, 2018, 07:33:33 AM »
An effective way to drag logs to the trailer is "fish" for them.  Winches are pretty slow, so if a log is a ways away from the trailer, hook a lightweight intermediate pulling chain to the tongs or to the log, then stretch it across the ground to the extended and horizontally laid out crane boom and hook it to the winch on the crane line hook. Then raise the crane boom like a fishing rod and the log will quickly slide forward the length of the crane boom.  Drop the boom, quickly shorten the chain, and lift the boom again.  Once the log gets close to the trailer, raise the boom one last time, swing the log into the bed and unhook.  Just like pumping a fishing rod when deep sea fishing.  If the log is too heavy to lift over the side, just use the boom to slide it upward, forward onto the trailer ramp and into the trailer bed.  I could have urban logs loaded faster that the homeowner could start telling me about how hard it would be. :D :D    

Also, many trailer connected actors have a fused 12V power line in the round plug, generally the center tap (its written on the connector) and I used it to charge up my crane battery during the day so it would stay hot. 
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #18 on: September 21, 2018, 07:59:11 AM »
My vision is parbuckle ramps with feet on them. Like hockey sticks. Rather than a winch somehow use bottle jacks (like a engine hoist) or a trailer jack to lift each ramp to level/horizontal..
I use this same method for putting logs on my mill.  I had the idea and then asked here if anyone had ever done it.  21 incher replied with his and with videos of his in action.  I built pretty much the same thing.  It works great and it would work the same for a trailer, but would need to be lifted higher I would think.  Dont get too short of a farm jack.
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Offline mike_belben

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #19 on: September 21, 2018, 08:42:35 AM »
My biggest problem that I am working on is with all the weight on the front of the trailer I can not dump the load without using the winch tied to a tree.
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 
Its too much weight for you scissor geometry to give the initial ooompf.  I built a little hydraulic mud wagon that was the same.  Help it off the rails with a highlift or a bottle jack and you should be  able to dump.  This is why real dumps use telescoping cylinder mounted vertical.  You could add a single stage cylinder plumbed parallel with your scissor cylinders.  Just mount it at the base and let it strike a pad on top. (Even an engine hoist long ram would work but be manual labor)  It will extend first, then at full extension your scissor lift will take over as it gets full pressure.  Use a chain collared up top as a leash to limit the vertical cylinder from flopping under the bed.  
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #20 on: November 29, 2018, 03:50:33 PM »
Had one come over the side dead lift and the larger walnut had to roll up the back after taking off 250lbs of forking so it could roll.  This was first big test for the crane and it worked like a charm.  Those cedar were left over and deck is 13 for idea of size.

Thanks again for all the advice folks, crane = happy back



 

 

 
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #21 on: November 29, 2018, 08:09:36 PM »
Very nice set-up.  How much is that crane rated for?  It looks pretty heavy duty.  Does it have a stabilizer leg or do you support that corner of the trailer when lifting?
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #22 on: December 04, 2018, 07:22:22 PM »
Rated for 2,800lbs and when the boom is up the winch can really pull an amazing amount...there is a drop trailer leveler on the other side to try and position support on both sides of the crane when I drop the normal trailer foot.  Gives it 5 points of contact including the pintle hook.

If you can find a crane for $500 like I did I believe its a great deal.
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #23 on: December 04, 2018, 09:21:54 PM »
 


Side Parbuckling logs with a winch onto raised beams on blocks on the trailer floor.  My ramps are 6 inch steel pipe hook over the the trailer rails.  Unloading is quick and easy.  Just roll them off.  Just need to have a detachable fender for loading and unloading. 

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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #24 on: December 08, 2018, 01:09:07 PM »
I installed a hydraulic winch on the front end of my trailer and connected into the trailer hydraulic powerpack.   When I use it I have a couple big oak beams that I use for ramps.  The winch cable runs out to the back center of the trailer through a snatch block, back to a second snatch block on the side opposite of where I set the ramps.   This keeps the cable from bunching up on the winch.    I've easily loaded logs up to 10k - 12K lbs this way.      

 

Sometime in the next week or two I am going to pick up a couple of 16' 42" diameter Red Oaks using this setup.   I'll try and get a few pictures of it in use.
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #25 on: December 08, 2018, 02:24:17 PM »
 

 
This is my way of loading.


 
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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #26 on: December 08, 2018, 02:50:30 PM »
Before my gooseneck tore up i made this pulley rig out of some scrap and a wheelbarrow rim i stepped on out in the woods.  The winch is on my bobcat grapple and id only use it for the logs it couldnt forkload.  The ramps are notched to hook onto the rub rail.







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Re: Parbuckle Trailer - Hinge Design Question
« Reply #27 on: December 08, 2018, 05:18:41 PM »
 

 
 

This my set up with75 feet of cable on the winch for extra reach
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets


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