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Author Topic: need help with skidder brakes  (Read 1505 times)

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Offline Brian w

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need help with skidder brakes
« on: April 24, 2018, 06:05:32 PM »
Anyone know how to put a truck rotor and caliper on transfer case of a 240a timberjack I have given up on the regular timberjack brake system

Offline millcreek40

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Re: need help with skidder brakes
« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2018, 08:21:22 PM »
Not sure but I have two 240a skidders they have awesome brakes if they are adjusted properly .i have not touched mine in 1 1/2 years . It should have two brakes in the transfer case i believe 
Two 240A Timberjacks, Mack log truck, Multitek 2040 wood processor.

Offline pdxh20

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Re: need help with skidder brakes
« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2018, 02:27:00 AM »
My '75 IH S-8 had nothing left of the original brake system except a tangle of steel brake lines and a pedal...so I used a '62 Corvette master cylinder (new on Amazon & includes the push-rod), an off-the-shelf 6' braided SS hot rod universal brake line and a 2000 Subaru brake rotor & caliper (lowest hub height) mounted to the power-shift trans rear axle output flange before attaching the rear driveline. Works like a champ no matter if the engine is on or off. Super simple, cheap, parts anywhere.  8) One of these days I'll post some pix.
'56 American crawler crane, Komatsu mini-ex, multiple Stihl saws, '75 IH S-8 cable skidder, 2000 F450 30' bucket truck, '95 Chev 4 x 4 2500 p/u, '05 Sprinter SHC 2500 van

Offline mike_belben

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Re: need help with skidder brakes
« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2018, 02:18:15 PM »
Engine off braking is a nice feature.  Any time my forklift stalls it becomes a tabogan.
Revelation 3:20

Offline Crusarius

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Re: need help with skidder brakes
« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2018, 02:44:16 PM »
is the rotor connected to the diff or is it setup so if your driveshaft breaks you lose brakes?

I always liked the idea of a transfer case brake until one day I had my rear driveshaft let go and had no front driveshaft. Kinda leaves you in a very bad predicament :)
I knew what I thought I meant.

Offline Brian w

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Re: need help with skidder brakes
« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2018, 02:23:07 PM »
Well I got the brakes fixed took the transfer case out and took it to the shop but next time I will be doing the rotor and caliper deal cause it was 800 to fix the timberjack brake system and I had to remove and replace the transfer case myself

Offline pdxh20

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Re: need help with skidder brakes
« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2018, 11:23:28 PM »
OK, I finally got a chance to clean up my home-brew disk brake set-up on my IH S-8 skidder to take some pix:

Here's the '62 Corvette master cylinder from Amazon (re-man about $60) that comes with the boot and pushrod. I modded the original pedal shaft by adding the small flat bar link to align with the pushrod through the range of travel, and the long (unpainted) bolt is for the helper spring for pedal return. I chose the Corvette because it has the same three bolt mounting pattern as the original, so it was an easy bolt in place.



Here's the '98-'04 Subaru caliper mounted to the back of the main frame via that angle iron "bridge" and some longer than stock caliper mount bolts (be very careful: metric bolts come in 3 pitches, you need extra fine, not fine, or you'll strip the threads) and stand-off bushings made from trial & error cut pieces of 1/2" black pipe to position the caliper properly over the rotor.


Looking in from the bottom at the rotor mounted on the rear trans output shaft, and the caliper and stand-off bushings on the mounting bolts.


Looking down from the top. Yes, I add ball valves (with safety plugs) to all case & tank drains, makes fluid changes way less of a mess. That's the trans case drain with the red handle.

Total package was under $200 in parts.
'56 American crawler crane, Komatsu mini-ex, multiple Stihl saws, '75 IH S-8 cable skidder, 2000 F450 30' bucket truck, '95 Chev 4 x 4 2500 p/u, '05 Sprinter SHC 2500 van

Offline mike_belben

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Re: need help with skidder brakes
« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2018, 04:09:18 AM »
Great job
Revelation 3:20

Offline Crusarius

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Re: need help with skidder brakes
« Reply #8 on: May 22, 2018, 07:58:27 AM »
Bet that stops pretty good now.
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Offline bushmechanic

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Re: need help with skidder brakes
« Reply #9 on: May 22, 2018, 09:33:24 PM »
Nice job on the brake system there pdxh20. I can't understand you having problems with the Eaton brakes they are really simple only thing you have to watch is to make sure they are sealed good from the oil in the transfer case. 

Offline pdxh20

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Re: need help with skidder brakes
« Reply #10 on: May 23, 2018, 01:15:37 AM »
Thanks !

When I got my S-8, it had only a tangle of rusted steel brake lines and a disk and caliper bracket at the rear diff and a brake pedal not connected to anything. There were spots for two (missing) master cylinders, originally side-by-side with one serving as the service, or winching brake and the other (also connected to a frozen and Klondiked Mico-lock lever on the dash) was the emergency brake mounted much like I did my home-brew. A bent-up bracket on the back of the trans might have held the caliper, but it looks too flimsy for that to me. No internal brakes came on my early power-shift Funk trans.

My goal was off-the-shelf and affordable "forever" (I turned 65 recently) and so far, so good. I'm on steep ground and pulled my first two (pretty big) turns today and sure liked having brakes when I wanted to stop on a slope and not dig holes with the blade while I put it in neutral to crank the steering max one side or the other to make a tight turn or change the lead on the winch for a tricky pull.

The haul road is short (600'), but pretty steep in spots plus choke points by a fence & big maples that would do some serious damage to me and the machine if I knocked 'em down and two tight turns...brakes are nice !


Had to take a hard pull on the stump & root ball of this wind-throw fir that fell downslope, before I could safely separate the tree without getting clobbered by it, then pull it 75' uphill through the underbrush & old limbing debris while steering clear of adjacent keeper trees. Then I bucked it and used the mini-ex to line 'em up for the sequential chokers on the skidder mainline to drag 'em together & then over to rest of the turn I had waiting about 50' away down slope. One-(old)man logging show in the great Pacific Northwest !



Made a pair of 20' wide gates that swing out to give me a 40' wide opening at the street so I can back trucks & trailers in at any angle no matter if they're heading uphill or down...

Got some more big firs blocking the view from the house, and some too-fast growing redwoods I planted about 20 years ago in a wet spot to pull, then it's time to re-open the log store and wait for another round of Craigslist log buyers to come and tell me their stories while they pay a small fortune for "aged" logs...

'56 American crawler crane, Komatsu mini-ex, multiple Stihl saws, '75 IH S-8 cable skidder, 2000 F450 30' bucket truck, '95 Chev 4 x 4 2500 p/u, '05 Sprinter SHC 2500 van


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