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Author Topic: Timber Frame Cabin Build  (Read 4462 times)

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Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #20 on: June 23, 2018, 10:31:35 AM »
Nice!  But even in full shade, your beams are going to check a bit.  You just can't stop the physics involved.  Its called character! ;)
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 38" cut Bandmill up to 54' - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Offline 123maxbars

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #21 on: June 23, 2018, 11:03:52 AM »
Great work here, thanks for sharing!
Sawyer/woodworker/logger
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Offline E-Tex

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #22 on: June 25, 2018, 11:42:32 PM »
 popcorn_smiley
2017 LT-50 Wide, Wireless Remote,
L2 Sawmill LLC

Offline TimFromNB

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #23 on: June 30, 2018, 05:10:44 PM »
Yesterday I got all the posts out on the saw horses to grade them visually and figure out which one will go where. Also marked the reference faces. Today I started layout on my first post! Taking my sweet time on the first ones until I get the hang of it.



 


Offline TimFromNB

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #24 on: July 16, 2018, 08:56:28 PM »
Update:

Finally started cutting my first post. Overall I am happy with the results so far, except I managed to gouge out too much material on the bearing surface of the tie beam mortise. I took my time on the upper face then thought I could go faster on the bearing face...go figure...Has anyone tried filling these in with epoxy or something? Biggest gouge is about 3/16".

First cheek/shoulder.


 

 

 

 

 

 

Where I gouged out the bearing surface...worst spot is 3/16th under cut:


 

First brace mortise.


 

 

I'm thinking it will take me about 1 full day per post at this rate...

Offline btulloh

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #25 on: July 17, 2018, 12:04:26 AM »
Nice work.  Enjoying your thread.  Thanks for posting.

Is that a standard dozuki or does it have the special rip teeth.  I've been thinking about getting one for green wood.  Hard to find a good rip saw these days that doesn't cost and arm and two legs.
HM126

Offline TimFromNB

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #26 on: July 17, 2018, 06:28:35 AM »
Thanks Btulloh. I believe it is a Gyokucho.

I wish I could find a 2" auger bit. Would save me some pairing on the mortises. Already eyeing a chain mortiser at this point ;) Having a hard time justifying it though :)

I can only work on the frame about one day per week and winter will be here before we know it...

Offline Brian_Weekley

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #27 on: July 17, 2018, 07:07:39 AM »
I wish I could find a 2" auger bit. Would save me some pairing on the mortises. Already eyeing a chain mortiser at this point ;) Having a hard time justifying it though :)
It will get faster the more you do.

Consider an antique boring machine and bit--they do work well.  However, as an experiment, I made a boring machine and it worked great.  You can get a 2" bit here:  http://logbuildingtools.ca/Wood_Auger_pricelist2.pdf

Millers Falls Dimensions in Timber Framing/Log construction
e aho laula

Offline flyingparks

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #28 on: July 17, 2018, 05:45:06 PM »
Looking great. A chain mortiser really speeds things up. If you look around a bit you'll find a brand new Makita for about $1600. My chain is still sharp on mine. But my friend recently told me replacements are $700. Ouch. I really enjoy using the boring machine on smaller projects.

Offline Don P

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #29 on: July 17, 2018, 10:39:15 PM »
You can file the chain, it's a little tricky but do-able. It's rare to see a used chain mortise for sale, they disappear fast. You lightly hollowed the bearing surface, high end work :)

Offline IMERC

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #30 on: July 18, 2018, 05:16:51 PM »
Yes, very nice work and I am enjoying your thread... 
Thanks for posting.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

Offline IMERC

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Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

Offline Brian_Weekley

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #32 on: July 20, 2018, 04:41:09 PM »
Never tried one of those Milwaukee self-feed bits, but without the flutes on an auger, I can't see how they would clear chips from deep mortises or holes very well.
e aho laula

Offline btulloh

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #33 on: July 20, 2018, 06:11:37 PM »
I have a Bosch bit that is the same design as the Milwaukee.  Does not clear chips well at all.  It does indeed self feed and can get itself in and jammed with chips before you can stop it.  You can make it work but it's always on the edge of jamming on the chips, especially in green wood.  This is 1/2".  Maybe the bigger ones clear chips better.
HM126

Offline Don P

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #34 on: July 20, 2018, 07:02:28 PM »
not really much better. when the chips get around and over it, better pull up and remove them. they were really designed to punch through thinner stock and then self clear. in log work or heavy timber you can bury a fluted auger beyond your power to pull or drill power to reverse your way out. so any drill can be jammed like that, they each have different points. just be aware and clear as needed.

Offline Jim1611

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #35 on: July 24, 2018, 10:58:50 AM »
Nice work!!
"Let every man be swift to hear, slow to speak, slow to wrath."

Offline TimFromNB

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #36 on: July 24, 2018, 09:27:28 PM »
Thanks for the feedback guys :). I am in the process of trying to build a boring machine with inspiration from Brian. That 2" bit is 18" long though, so I might stick with the 1 1/2".

Finished my first post. Started layout on the 2nd and am having a problem transferring lines from my reference face. It seems like there is a 1/4" bow in the top of the log where the half dovetail tie beam mortise will be. If I register my framing square with the blade towards the bottom of the post, I get a different transferred line location than if I register it towards the top. This is because in both cases, the square is square to that 24" of edge, but is within the bow and is at angle to the overall straight edge of the timber. What kind of tolerance do I have here? At what point do I start having to use chalk lines?

It is giving me just under 1/16" difference, which could mean that one side of the mortise shoulder is 1/16th lower than the other, i.e. out of square.

Registered to top: 


 

Registered to bottom (can't really see error in this photo - right edge):




Close up of error (distance from middle of thick line to thin line):
 





Another question, should I dish out my mortise housings for shrinkage or keep them square?

  

 

  

First post completed:

 


Thanks for your help!

Offline TimFromNB

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #37 on: July 29, 2018, 06:06:57 PM »
Finished the drill press a few days ago. Kind of a hack job, but it is a utility piece ;). Hopefully I can test it out tomorrow.




 

 

Loaded up some of the slabs as well. Starting to get wormy.



 

Offline TimFromNB

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #38 on: August 13, 2018, 01:36:11 PM »
Finished the second post. Although I wasn't thinking right and hollowed out the bottom bearing surface of the post...I'll have to fill that in with epoxy or something :D.



 

Got to try out the boring machine. Worked pretty good:


 
Those through mortises are self cleaning :)



 

"Visually graded" the 8x10 tie beams. One seems to have some shake and another has pretty severe splits I think are from the felling (starts bottom left corner of picture below). It goes out on the left face, basically creating a triangular piece, almost like if there was a LOT of wane over a 4-5 ft length. This specific tie beam would not be carrying any vertical load (except exterior sheathing) but is tying the two eve walls. I have one spare, so I either pick the one with shake or with split. Or I try to get another beam somehow.


 



 

They all have some twist in them...hoping it is not my stack that is off ;D.

I've read in Will Beemer's book to place a straight edge (framing square) on both ends and sight it down. If the straight edges are out of parallel by more than 1/8" over their length, then I need to fixed the ends or use chalk lines. But I am not sure how to measure that value visually. I might try and reach out to the author. What do you guys do to check for twist?

Speaking of twist, can you guys spot the 4 red pine timbers in this stack?  :D




Offline sbishop

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Re: Timber Frame Cabin Build
« Reply #39 on: August 14, 2018, 09:10:44 AM »
nice work, what part of NB you from?

Steve


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