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Author Topic: Belsaw build  (Read 8426 times)

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Offline glendaler

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #100 on: May 12, 2019, 06:15:43 AM »
I'd be fine with up in the center, at least it wouldn't teeter. I was pretty painstaking with the pulley setup, they're pulling as straight as possible. Those off bearing skids are meant to be plated in, I can see how a slab could sag and get jammed up on the far one. The don't say the devil's in the details for nothing. I can't really understand why the belt wont track. The arbor pulley has a nice amount of taper and it's tracking nice and straight, just off center as you can see in the pics.
Belsaw A10 circle mill,

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #101 on: May 12, 2019, 09:59:05 AM »
A mistake I have made with used flat belting was cutting a wide one into a narrower width. To do this you cut strips off both sides to keep the original center. Can you flip the belt? Can one pulley be moved in or out?

Offline luap

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #102 on: May 12, 2019, 10:49:55 AM »
Glendaler, getting that belt to track properly is no different than a snowmobile track, conveyor belt, or a sandpaper belt. One drum on one end has to be adjustable to be angled that essentially makes one edge of the belt tighter and the belt will move over to the opposite side. In your case the driving pulley is in the same plane as the saw so moving that one will affect your lead. Don't know what your options are there.

Offline Trapper John

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #103 on: May 12, 2019, 01:59:41 PM »
Glendaler,  I have noticed the idler (rider) pulley has a major effect on tracking.  It must be 90 degrees from the belt axis.  I had the same trouble but a lot worse but as soon as I changed the angle on the rider, no more problem.  However my rider was much closer to the driven pulley.    My 16' carriage  had a high corner on one end.  I simply made a cut into the bottom of the carriage where the angle started and bent it into plane.  A weld and my carriage was straight.  Plastic strips on your carriage will greatly assist the sliding of cants when setting.  I have noticed that the amount of force needed to set a cant is directly related to inaccuracy of the lumber.  Just the nature of a Belsaw I think.  If I am within 1/8 " making lumber, I am happy.  

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #104 on: May 13, 2019, 06:25:50 AM »
Logs, especially heavy ones, should not be flipped on the belsaw carriage you must follow their directions and make log turners to save the pounding on the mill. The turners are flip up wedges that take the brunt of the impact of logs/cants flipping. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline glendaler

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #105 on: May 13, 2019, 07:45:20 AM »
After closer inspection I think trapper has my solution, I'm going to shim the top of the idler bracket and I think it should push it inward. As you say luap, everything is already lined up so changing angles of shafts is a no go. Log turners will be in place before the big logs go on frank.
Belsaw A10 circle mill,

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #106 on: May 13, 2019, 08:16:55 AM »
Glendaler, some day you could make 45 degree hinged wedges that you flip up. They get bolted to the log deck skids at the carriage. They should have 'skate wheels' on them. Some of the old time sawmill makers offered them. The last pair I saw where marked Lane . I didn't consider your idler on the flat belt. They are very touchy.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #107 on: May 13, 2019, 06:30:30 PM »
The wedges I have on my current mill I used heavy truck brake shoe cam rollers. You flip them up and pull the log/cant towards you it lands on the incline and slides right back on the carriage with 1/4 turn. Mine are mounted on top of two deeply berried sections of phone pole so theirs no shock on any part of the mill. My first mill used 3/4" round stock welded to the top of the wedges, worked as good as the rollers. Frank C. 
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline glendaler

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #108 on: May 14, 2019, 03:19:24 PM »
I've seen the roller types but thought the narrow contact surface would dent the big log when it comes falling down. Am I over thinking it?
Belsaw A10 circle mill,

Offline Trapper John

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #109 on: May 14, 2019, 03:30:19 PM »
I use wooden wedges surfaced with uhmw plastic and the logs slide OK.

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #110 on: May 14, 2019, 06:54:18 PM »
Glendaler, You can't worry about that. If you where doing something very special you would spike the cant hook at the end of the log/cant and do as much as possible with you hands, not use the carriage if rusty etc.

Offline glendaler

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #111 on: May 17, 2019, 07:20:32 PM »
New bits finally came, should help quite a bit.



 
Belsaw A10 circle mill,

Offline glendaler

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #112 on: May 19, 2019, 07:29:55 PM »
Taking a break from working on hay gear, mocking up the brow. The saw side will hinge but the far side will be solid, 3x3 i-beam, all mounted on pressure treated posts pounded in. Still have to fabricate the hinge and lots of bracing.



 
Belsaw A10 circle mill,

Offline jimparamedic

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #113 on: May 20, 2019, 09:14:19 AM »
Looks like you are well on your way. want a great project. And I see you are getting a little dust in you vains along the way.

Offline jimparamedic

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #114 on: May 20, 2019, 06:45:44 PM »
People are coming out of the woodwork with there belsaws and I love it. Keep these post rollen

Offline glendaler

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #115 on: May 21, 2019, 05:54:24 PM »
Yeah they're popping up all over the place! I got the brow beams all welded and mounted, just needs bracing and log turners. I ordered a belt splicing vise which should be in tomorrow and I can fix my feed belt. Back to some sawing after that's fixed, I'm trying to get the lumber sawed to start on the mill building.
Belsaw A10 circle mill,

Offline glendaler

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #116 on: May 22, 2019, 02:24:32 PM »
And now to try splicing a belt for the first time... 



 
Belsaw A10 circle mill,

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #117 on: May 22, 2019, 08:42:39 PM »
Glen, I have a clipper lacer just like yours. When you cut the belting be extra sure its square and aligned in the lacer. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline glendaler

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #118 on: May 23, 2019, 05:53:13 AM »
I used a square when I cut the belt and was very fussy with the setup and it went perfectly. Except I was too cautious with the length and it was too long, maxed out the feed lever and was still slipping. Shortened it but it seems like this old belt is made of something stretchier than the new one I got, I think it's about as good as it's going to get.
Belsaw A10 circle mill,

Offline glendaler

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Re: Belsaw build
« Reply #119 on: May 25, 2019, 02:48:36 PM »
Well I'm about 200bf in and I've made a few observations. The feed control handle needs to come out 4-6" at least, it's rubbing along the log when taking a wide cut and even got jammed up in a knot trying to go by, and it puts me too inline with the blade. Also I thought the dogs I had were superior to the newer style and I was very wrong. At least that's been the case with the small logs I've been milling. I can see me making my own dogs.
Belsaw A10 circle mill,


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