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Author Topic: board/batton  (Read 563 times)

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Offline xlogger

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board/batton
« on: May 31, 2018, 05:54:04 AM »
I got some pine logs in yesterday to cut for the back side of my mill shed. It's 44 ft long. I was thinking about cutting the boards either 10 or 12" wide. If I put them up green off the saw and only put one nail in center of board for a few weeks to dry some before I add more nails do you think they will cup much? Or maybe two nails about a few inchs apart in center?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Offline Don P

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Re: board/batton
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2018, 06:19:31 AM »
The usual rule of thumb is if you use 2 nails don't put them more than about your hand apart 4-5" at most to avoid splitting as it dries.  Heart out will pin the edges to the frame if all things are equal drying wise, but they aren't cause one side is shaded and the other is not. If you can rip battens and install them at the same time it sure helps... yeah I fully intend to get round to battens on mine one day :D

Offline WDH

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Re: board/batton
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2018, 07:17:37 AM »
Remember boards cup to the bark side.  I think that if you kept the boards to 8 or 9" wide and used two nails like Don said, you will come out with fewer issues. 
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Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: board/batton
« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2018, 08:04:02 AM »
A potential problem is that southern pine likes to shrink and likes to warp. We cannot stop shrinkage with nails or screws.  We can sometimes reduce warp.  Two nails close to each other is essential to avoid splitting; with syp, I would suggest 2 maximum and the nails close to one edge.  The nails control one edge and the batten will control most warp on the other edge if you put the panels bark-side to the wall frame.  The batten would allow the pine board pieces to shrink and swell, as the baton is not screwed or nailed through the siding pieces.

I would consider stainless screws with large heads, large diameters, and quite a bit of penetration in the framing instead of nails.

Bark side to the wall frame means that natural tendency of more shrinkage on the bark side will keep the edges against the wall.  However, the drying or swelling of the exposed face from rain and sun (and not the side against the wall) will means that there will be some cupping "in the wrong direction."  

We can minimize this rain-on-the-face effect and subsequent drying from the sun by using a water repellent finish on the face as soon as the face dries enough to allow penetration of this WR finish...a few days.  Follow up with additional coats  in a month.  Use the best WR finish you can afford.  For an expensive structure like a house, we would look at $75 per gallon, but for a shed this would be overkill perhaps.  My favorite product is "PPG Transparent Stain Cetol 23 Plus RE Finish."  It is a three coat system with mildew inhibitor, water repellent, and uv absorbers.  The base coat is different than the top two coats.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Offline xlogger

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Re: board/batton
« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2018, 04:05:35 PM »
 smiley_thumbsup
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln


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