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home made band saw mill

Started by 66skly, June 16, 2018, 10:03:09 PM

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66skly

I'm building my own band saw mill and i,m making my wheels now, can anyone tell me what the crown in the wheel should be for 20" wheel with a 1.5 to a 2.0 width blade?

thecfarm

No idea,but I just want to welcome you to the Forum.
What's the plan for all the lumber? :)
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Southside

Welcome to the Forum.  Can't help you either but have to ask how you are going about making the wheels. 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
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Ljohnsaw

Your post brings a lot of questions to mind.  How big of a cut are you planning?  How big of an engine are you going to use (gas or diesel)?  Hydraulics?  Steel wheels?  The bigger the band (1.5 - 2"), the more power and tension you will need to make it work.  Also, 20" wheels are a bit small for the size bands you mention.  Will be flexing the bands too much and will cause premature breakage, so I've read.

I'm using 1.25" .042 7° WM bands.  I have an 18 hp twin gas B&S engine (just enough power) and can cut ~36" slabs but can whittle down a 42" log.  Works best on 20-22" logs.  I'm running on donut spare tires (fairly high crown) at about 21" diameter.  In "good" logs, it cuts like a dream.  I've had a clump of "bad" logs - hard, dry, big pine full of knots that are causing lots of wave.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

kelLOGg

Ljohn... brings up some good points. Pay a lot of attention to the wheel diameter and engine HP. If you are using 2" bands I would consider 26" wheels. More flexing around  small diameter causes band breakage as does an underpowered engine which makes for slower cutting and again more flexing. I know because my mill is underpowered when I make 20" to 26" cuts . I get fine particle  sawdust and spend a lot of time making a cut and my band life proves it. (I think).
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

66skly

Quote from: thecfarm on June 17, 2018, 07:35:45 AM
No idea,but I just want to welcome you to the Forum.
What's the plan for all the lumber? :)
thanks for the welcome, i want to put a loft in my shop and a addition on the side for my school bus i,m converting to a RV, i also need some fencing around the shop, and of coarse furniture. 

66skly

Quote from: Southside logger on June 17, 2018, 11:16:35 AM
Welcome to the Forum.  Can't help you either but have to ask how you are going about making the wheels.
i,m going to try tractor wheel centers with a rolled 3/8 x whatever blade width i use less the teeth iv,e turned a couple axle shafts to fit some common pillow block bearings, i,l spin them up and see how bad it will be to balance them.

66skly

Quote from: ljohnsaw on June 17, 2018, 02:46:15 PM
Your post brings a lot of questions to mind.  How big of a cut are you planning?  How big of an engine are you going to use (gas or diesel)?  Hydraulics?  Steel wheels?  The bigger the band (1.5 - 2"), the more power and tension you will need to make it work.  Also, 20" wheels are a bit small for the size bands you mention.  Will be flexing the bands too much and will cause premature breakage, so I've read.

I'm using 1.25" .042 7° WM bands.  I have an 18 hp twin gas B&S engine (just enough power) and can cut ~36" slabs but can whittle down a 42" log.  Works best on 20-22" logs.  I'm running on donut spare tires (fairly high crown) at about 21" diameter.  In "good" logs, it cuts like a dream.  I've had a clump of "bad" logs - hard, dry, big pine full of knots that are causing lots of wave.
well i,m working towards a 72" cut but i,m going to make the head adjustable down to a 48" cut when i dont cut big logs, i have a VW 4 cylinder fuel injected gas engine i,m thinking about but that idea is still up in the air, Hydraulics later, 20" steel wheels,iv,e read that maybe a thinner 1.5 blade might work but dont know for sure.

waynorthmountie

66skly you just described the mill I plan on building down the road as well. Looking forward to your build.

What are you planning to use for a frame and head lift system so that you can have such variety of wheel offsets.


66skly

Quote from: waynorthmountie on June 21, 2018, 06:03:27 AM
66skly you just described the mill I plan on building down the road as well. Looking forward to your build.

What are you planning to use for a frame and head lift system so that you can have such variety of wheel offsets.
i have a 27' box truck frame which has 8" c channel and some 3x6 i beam for the cross members, probably make it 6'6" wide, for the carriage thinking about 4x4 1/4 wall and some 5x5 1/4 wall for the head will raise and lower the head with some 1" acme rod, think the 20" wheels arent going to cut it trying to pull a 1" blade through so working on some 30" or larger tractor wheel centers to run a 2" blade, what do you think about running a 8-10 tooth bymetal blade for when their is metal in the log?

Magicman

I would design the sawmill to use standard blade lengths that are available from blade manufacturer/suppliers.
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