The Forestry Forum is sponsored in part by:

AVAILABLE


Forestry Forum
Sponsored by:


TimberKing Sawmills



Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools



Norwood Industries Inc.


Sawmill & Woodlot Magazine



Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

STIHLDealers.com sponsored by Northeast STIHL


Woodland Sawmills

Peterson Swingmills

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades

Turbosawmill

Sawmill Exchange

BRUTE FORCE Authorized Dealer

Woodshax Outdoor Vending Solutions

FARMA


Council Tool

Baker Products

ECHO-Bearcat



Author Topic: WM mill repairs  (Read 1347 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Jim_Rogers

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 7041
  • Age: 66
  • Location: Georgetown, MA
  • Gender: Male
  • Keep your chisels sharp.
    • Share Post
    • jrsawmill.com
WM mill repairs
« on: June 30, 2018, 11:36:12 AM »
I was thinking of starting a mill repair thread where everyone could post methods or procedures of how they have repaired their mills.

Recently the key switch on my 1994 LT30HDG24 had been acting up. I have replaced it at least once before by getting a key switch from my local auto parts store. The reason I got it there originally was it was broke and I needed to keep sawing and didn't want to wait days for a new one to be shipped in to me. And the electrical tech guy at WM gave me a part number (I believe, if I remember correctly) so I could get one locally.
I had written down the part number in my parts book on the key page.
I called up my local Napa store and they said they didn't have one but the store two towns to the east had three on their shelf.
I went over that at lunch time and picked up a new one.

The old one was not working correctly. After starting the engine the electricity wouldn't always be "on". That required me to wiggle the key until the little green light on the panel would come on. Then everything worked ok.
But then the key switch would not always disengage the starter after the engine had started. Thus grinding gears on the starter and flywheel. This we could not have.

So the old one had to come out.

The first thing I did was what everyone should do, is disconnect the battery to stop all electricity from going to the switch.


 

In case no one ever told you before but you should always disconnect the negative battery terminal first. To some that maybe common sense but if you've never been told that, it could be something new. The reason why, and I learned this in high school from a classmate is because if your wrench hits something metal while UN-doing your positive battery connection you'll make an electrical connection resulting in a big spark and/or injury or both.

Next to remove the panel from the control box:



 



 
With my mill it takes 6 Phillips head screws. I use a short block of wood to prevent the wires from getting damaged against the open control box edge.

The next thing I do is remove the old key switch and install the new one from the panel itself.



 

This makes it easier so you don't have to hold onto the new one as you transfer one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch.
The nut on the stud of the switches is 3/8" and I use a socket driver to loosen and tighten the nuts:


 

Be sure to read the label on the switch to ensure you get the right wire off the old one onto the right stud on the new one. Each stud is marked as to what they are for.

After you have them all transferred you can put your panel back onto the control box. I start each of the six screws just a little to make sure that they all line up.



 

To make sure that when you turn the key you don't turn the switch, I tighten the holding ring a little more than just hand tight:



 

Here is the part number of the switch I use, and you can see the labels for each stud on the switch.



 

I hope this story has helped you to understand how to change your key switch if you need to.

Jim Rogers

PS: I mentioned that the little green light on the panel has to be on. If it isn't on your alternator won't charge your battery. In a pinch, I swapped the red light to the green light side while I was waiting for my new green lights to come in from WM parts department. I ordered several as I usually like to have some parts on hand. And it was good thing I did as just an hour before I changed the switch the green light burnt out.
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Offline LeeB

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 7583
  • Age: 59
  • Location: Yellville Arkansas
  • Gender: Male
  • proud to be a TEXAN in Arkansas
    • Share Post
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2018, 11:42:17 AM »
I'll try to remember to document it when I rewire my control box. Hopefully it won't be too bad and not too many burnt wires to replace. 
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline WV Sawmiller

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 5094
  • Age: 65
  • Location: Hinton WV
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
    • Green's Sawmill Services
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2018, 03:34:54 PM »
  The last repair I made on my mill was when my debarker would stop spinning when got in a strain. It would not trip the breaker and would start back up when I moved it away from the log. I checked to make sure the blade was tight and it was. I called WM Indy and we started troubleshooting and quickly found the problem was a couple of loose ring connections in the box with the breaker. I just tightened them and it has worked like new ever since. Sorry no pix. 
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline ellmoe

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 1392
  • Age: 62
  • Location: Bushnell,Florida
  • Gender: Male
  • I need to edit my profile!
    • Share Post
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2018, 06:31:50 PM »
We recently had a problem with the up/down on our WM  LT 40 Super hydraulic 25 hp electric. Apparently, it began when the head would not move with just the battery, it would only work when the 25 hp was running. Later it would not work when the blade was engaged. Finally, it would not work at all. I did not learn of the progressive nature of the problem until all the usual trouble shooting was done, otherwise I may have changed tactics earlier. We had recently replaced both solenoids, so we rechecked connections, grounds,. etc., went ahead and replaced the drum switch even though power was coming out. Hey, it works. Well for a couple of logs anyhow. Had voltage to motor, replaced motor... nothing. Took leads from forward/reverse motor, engaged with that drum switch, no problem, goes up and down just fine. Told sawyer to rechecked all grounds ,etc. as something must be loose somewhere. After lunch I'm told a small wire was a little loose coming off positive on battery and it's working now! (Don't know how that could possibly help, but I'll take it!) ;D  Well for a couple of logs, anyhow, again. ::) Time to get violent!. I had the sawyer hold the drum switch in the up position and I started shaking everything, hard! Shortly thereafter, I found that when I moved the main bundle of wires going from the control box up towards the motor the head would move. It turns out the heavy positive wire (size 8 ? ) had broken almost in two and was sometimes allowing enough current through to allow operation. I was testing voltage only and had 12-14 volts showing throughout . I believe the wire suffered from flexing fatigue as it will bend slightly as the motor is engaged. This is a 2000 machine and has averaged 20 hours per week over the years. A lot of time spend chasing a simple problem. I don't expect to encounter this again, but someone else might.
Good thought on this thread, Jim.
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

Offline MartyParsons

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 1842
  • Age: 54
  • Location: Shade Gap, Pennsylvania
  • Gender: Male
  • Wood-Mizer Service and sales PA, VA, MD, WV others
    • Share Post
LT40 Super Up down not working.
« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2018, 05:15:19 PM »
Hello,
 Customer called a few times before the mill arrived at the shop.
  • First communication - Saw head was drifting down after it reached the setting.  Reviewed multiple causes.
  • mast pads not adjusted correctly
  • Up Down Gear box worn or incorrect gear oil. ( should be 85W 140  non synthetic)  This mill had low hours.  
  • Drum switch worn.
  • Motor brushes worn.
  • Up down brake damaged
  • Second communication  Up down motor would not go down but would raise the saw head.
  • Worn motor brushes
  • Broken wire going to motor
  • Accuset H Bridge. Check lights on H bridge as per owners manual. ( checked out normal)
  • Check that current was getting to the motor. Customer said no then yes then not sure.
  • Third communication  I am bringing the mill to your shop!
We found this.  
 
It looks like the motor had some moisture damage.

 

The spring on the top is normal. The one on the bottom is not normal. Not sure what caused the spring to become damaged.
The motor brushes were good as new, springs are not available with out purchasing the kit with brushes. 


 Motor was cleaned and polished. I put never seize on all the bolts and the mating surface.
 

 

Hope this helps. 
Thanks Jim for this post. 
A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty. -Winston Churchill

Offline Bigblazer

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 8
  • Age: 32
  • Location: West Michigan
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: LT40 Super Up down not working.
« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2018, 08:50:08 AM »
  • Up Down Gear box worn or incorrect gear oil. ( should be 85W 140  non synthetic)  This mill had low hours.  
Any reason not to use synthetic? 

Offline MartyParsons

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 1842
  • Age: 54
  • Location: Shade Gap, Pennsylvania
  • Gender: Male
  • Wood-Mizer Service and sales PA, VA, MD, WV others
    • Share Post
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2018, 10:46:46 PM »
Hello,
  The gear company made the gear box more efficient. This is great for a conveyor or other application that may run continuous. WM designed the saw head to relay on the inefficiency of the gear box to help hold the saw head at the setting. That being said you can install a brake on the gear box to hold the gear box from drifting and / or add 85 140 no syn oil to add some friction. If you have a small engine on the saw head then no worries. The diesel engine etc with the debarker and all the bells and whistles add some weight to the head and it may start to drift or the break may be needed to be added. The new mills all have heavier gear oil and brakes added. I also adjust the mast pads to add resistance and it seems to really help. This is not every mill but a few here and there. Every Super that comes to the shop I change the gear box oil. WM gear box only runs a few seconds so I would think Synthetic oil would not be needed.
Hope this helps.
Marty
A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty. -Winston Churchill

Offline WV Sawmiller

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 5094
  • Age: 65
  • Location: Hinton WV
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
    • Green's Sawmill Services
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2018, 10:57:44 PM »
   I broke the plastic quick connect on my fuel tank last Saturday. Quick fix was to loosen the hose clamp on the hose end and take the male end off the hose and stick the hose as far down in the tank as it would go. Limited to using about the top gallon of fuel so had to keep the tank topped up. Ordered both pieces from WM Indy Monday, $11 worth of parts and $9 worth of shipping. Arrived today. Easiest fix possible. Unscrew the piece in the tank with the threaded male end with a 5/8" end wrench. Hand tighten replacement piece then tighten a couple turns with the end wrench. Place the other end into the rubber hose/fuel line and tighten the hose clamp with a flat tip screw driver and the job is done.

   Thanks to WM for the quick response. 
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline LeeB

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 7583
  • Age: 59
  • Location: Yellville Arkansas
  • Gender: Male
  • proud to be a TEXAN in Arkansas
    • Share Post
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #8 on: July 12, 2018, 11:42:17 AM »
Not quite sure which route I'm going to go on my repair job yet. The most expensive option is a new mill. Wife actually suggested it. I'm not really wanting to shell out $45k right now though. Next option is a new control console, upgrade to accuset 2, and a new debarker. About $7k and change. Third option is rewire my old control console, upgrade to accuset 2, repair the debarker I have. Roughly $2.7k. Final option is rewire the control box and live without an accuset and debarker. I'm leaning pretty hard toward rewiring and upgrade along with repair the debarker although the new control console would effectively give me a nice stash of spare parts. 
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline Jim_Rogers

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 7041
  • Age: 66
  • Location: Georgetown, MA
  • Gender: Male
  • Keep your chisels sharp.
    • Share Post
    • jrsawmill.com
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #9 on: July 12, 2018, 05:26:05 PM »
LeeB:
What happened to your mill? I didn't hear about it, yet.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Offline Magicman

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 36625
  • Age: 75
  • Location: Brookhaven, MS
  • Gender: Male
  • A "Traveling Man"
    • Share Post
    • Knothole Sawmill
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #10 on: July 12, 2018, 07:30:31 PM »
I got an email today.  WM has a sale price on the LT40SH until the end of the month.  
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline LeeB

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 7583
  • Age: 59
  • Location: Yellville Arkansas
  • Gender: Male
  • proud to be a TEXAN in Arkansas
    • Share Post
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #11 on: July 13, 2018, 01:50:41 AM »
LeeB:
What happened to your mill? I didn't hear about it, yet.

Jim Rogers
The debarker has been out for a while now. My fault from neglect.
The set works gave up the ghost on me too. Also pretty much from neglect. Found a lot of water in it when I opened it up. It may be salvageable by cleaning up the corroded connections. When I took the setworks off to convert to manual operation I didn't remove the ground wire for it from the control panel, nor did I insulate the connector on the end of it. Stupid me thought it's just a ground and shoved it in the control box. Work fine for a couple days until it made contact with a hot terminal and hot it did get. Melted the insulation on it and several of the other wires it was touching. Now I get to rewire it or go with a new control box and have a lot of spare parts. 
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline Jim_Rogers

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 7041
  • Age: 66
  • Location: Georgetown, MA
  • Gender: Male
  • Keep your chisels sharp.
    • Share Post
    • jrsawmill.com
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #12 on: July 13, 2018, 09:08:20 AM »
Wow, that sucks big time.
Thanks for telling me what happened.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Offline LeeB

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 7583
  • Age: 59
  • Location: Yellville Arkansas
  • Gender: Male
  • proud to be a TEXAN in Arkansas
    • Share Post
Re: WM mill repairs
« Reply #13 on: July 22, 2018, 09:26:32 AM »
Managed to get to the wiring yesterday. Got lucky and no major damage done. Mostly only to the errant ground wire and a blown fuse. The fuse did what it was supposed to do. Doesn't help with the debarker or the setworks but at least I can saw again.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.


Share via delicious Share via digg Share via facebook Share via linkedin Share via pinterest Share via reddit Share via stumble Share via tumblr Share via twitter

xx
Harbor Freight Mill Mods & Repairs

Started by Kingmt on Sawmills and Milling

61 Replies
13735 Views
Last post June 25, 2017, 03:56:54 AM
by MbfVA
xx
chain repairs

Started by old2stroke on Chainsaws

4 Replies
576 Views
Last post December 20, 2015, 08:46:40 PM
by chevytaHOE5674
xx
MS310 repairs...

Started by mrcaptainbob on Chainsaws

1 Replies
969 Views
Last post April 26, 2010, 07:52:50 AM
by Kevin
xx
Tractor Repairs

Started by jwilly3879 on Forestry and Logging

11 Replies
972 Views
Last post June 16, 2017, 02:04:17 PM
by jwilly3879
 


Powered by EzPortal