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Author Topic: Peg drilling options.  (Read 356 times)

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Offline walexander

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Peg drilling options.
« on: August 05, 2018, 08:53:09 AM »
Well my corded peg drilling was stolen. Truth is I've never been too happy with my drill and all of the methods I tried for 90deg peg holes. I tried mirrors, welded stands, squares etc. Now I'm looking for a drilling guide, station, boring machine.... What have you guys settled on for drilling peg holes?

Offline Jim_Rogers

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Re: Peg drilling options.
« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2018, 09:04:33 AM »
For drilling peg holes through the mortise timber I have always used a boring machine. It holds the bit 90 in two directions, left and right, and front to back.

Once the peg hole is drilled through the mortise, I then place the tenon into the mortise and run a bit from a brace and bit down the mortise peg hole and push a dimple into the tenon so I know exactly where it should be.

I then remove the tenon from the mortise, and bore the peg hole through the tenon using the bit and brace but first move the hole location over to create "draw bore" effect to pull the joint together.

Two different tools to do two different holes for one peg.

Boring machine bits can usually bore all the way through the mortise timber. But I usually stop when the bit lead screw tip breaks the surface of the timber on the bottom side so that it doesn't "blow out" a large chip. And I finish the hole with the bit and brace. I turn the bit and brace backward, or counter clockwise to score the hole perimeter first to prevent "blow out" of the chips.

I have shown doing this in one of my you tube videos.

The bit brace bit boring a hole in the tenon doesn't have to be exactly 90 most of the time. And doing it by hand standing over the tenon is usually good enough.

Once you've done it for a whole frame you'll get pretty good at it.

Good luck with your projects.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
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Offline Dave Shepard

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Re: Peg drilling options.
« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2018, 10:18:44 AM »
I have small bits for my boring machine, but its very slow. I use a long ship auger in my 18 volt drill. I use my Big Al tool to guide the drill bit. You can buy drill stands from Mafell, Hema, and others,  but they are hundreds of dollars.
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Offline walexander

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Re: Peg drilling options.
« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2018, 11:29:25 AM »
This sounds like a great method. I would need a boring machine that is in good enough shape. I bought one once off eBay that was junky. Looks nice on a shelf... That's about it.

Offline walexander

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Re: Peg drilling options.
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2018, 11:32:17 AM »
Dave, this is sort of what I've been doing. I've drilled a couple not so 90 holes in my day so I am looking for another option. The drill guides look great, but that's alot of money for what your getting it seems. But that the Germans for you!

I guess I'm between a guide and an old school boring machine.

Offline jander3

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Re: Peg drilling options.
« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2018, 04:51:59 PM »
My preference...

A mirror with a wood owl bit.  Keeping the bit lined up in the mirror, from the mortise reference face drill all the way thru the timber till the point pokes out (a little back pressure on drill when you are drilling the second half.) Need to sweep or blow off chips while drilling as they cover up the mirror. Flip beam over and finish the last little bit, line up the bit in the small hole from the point.

If you keep the bit straight in the mirror, the out hole will be within 1/8" of the in hole.

Drilling all the way through ensures you don't knock the peg out where there is no hole when you assemble the joint.

Test fit tenon and mark.  Remove the tenon and drill (again I use a mirror).  Before drilling the tenon, I normall move the mark a moose-hair  toward the joint, then drill.  This allows the draw bore to tighten things up when the joint is assembled.

I've also used a mirror with an auger bit and brace. Works fine also.



  
Jon


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