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Author Topic: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket  (Read 2997 times)

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Offline Greenerpastures

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Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« on: September 04, 2018, 08:15:28 PM »
Hi everyone
I have a small 50cc saw with 16 inch bar running .325 by .58 chain.

My question is, should I stick with .58 gauge if using a longer bar,
or does it make sense to try for a lighter bar such as .50 gauge
with the same .325 chain, if so, can I use the current .58 drive
rim, as there is not a lot between .50 and .58, and remain stable
in use, or will there be consequences like chain slapping about side
to side on the rim sprocket.


I hope some of you on here can enlighten me.

Thanks & Regards to all

Offline Greyhound

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2018, 08:25:07 PM »
Drive sprockets can drive any gauge chain, only the pitch matters.

Offline John Mc

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2018, 08:30:48 PM »
Greyhound is right. There is no such thing as a 0.058 drive sprocket.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline Greenerpastures

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2018, 08:46:51 AM »
Thanks greyhound and John Mc, good to know there is
essentially no specific gauge for the sprockets,
I understand the pitch has to be on or the other.

Would anyone care to share their opinions regarding
using .50 or .58 gauge bars, some say the wider
bar oils better, anyone experience this.


Thanks for posting.

Offline lxskllr

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #4 on: September 05, 2018, 09:10:07 AM »
Gauge seems to be regional from what I've read around. Around here, .50 seems to be standard. Aside from any theoretical gains one way or the other, I'd try to standardize as much of my gear as possible. IMO, any possible extra wear would be offset by the convenience of reusing parts. Less hassle matching things up, and you could make repair your own chains more easily.

Offline John Mc

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2018, 10:00:50 AM »
Up until the last few years, just about all I saw around here was .058" gauge bars (unless someone was running a Stihl, which does not offer .058, so they used .063"). Occasionally we'd see .050, but it was not the norm in this area. Usually it was on a chainsaw bought at a big box store or something someone brought here from another part of the country.

The preference really seems to be a regional thing. I bought a used Husqvarna 357XP that came with an .050 bar. I cut with it for a while, then switched to an .058 since those bars and chains are more readily available around here. To tell the truth, I really can't tell the difference in use. I use .058 because that's what is carried by most saw shops around here.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline sawguy21

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2018, 12:01:01 PM »
Interesting. I worked for an Oregon distributor, we couldn't give .063 away except to the guys running the big Stihls. Husky is supplied with .058  unless the customer specifies otherwise, pretty much everything else comes with .050. I never understood the rationale behind .325 x .063. Why run such a heavy driver and correspondingly thicker bar with a relatively narrow kerf chain? We gave our 22LP chain away to make room in the warehouse.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Offline Greenerpastures

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2018, 04:30:40 PM »
Interesting. I worked for an Oregon distributor, we couldn't give .063 away except to the guys running the big Stihls. Husky is supplied with .058  unless the customer specifies otherwise, pretty much everything else comes with .050. I never understood the rationale behind .325 x .063. Why run such a heavy driver and correspondingly thicker bar with a relatively narrow kerf chain? We gave our 22LP chain away to make room in the warehouse.
Hi sawguy21
I use a 16 inch 325 .58 bar
as I have some chains for it, I think I will manually attack
the saplings with what we call a bill hook, its about 52 inches
long with a curved sharp blade 12 inches long by 1-3/4 by 1/4 inch wide,
that will eliminate the bending and the saw, 16 inch bar will be
long enough for the thinning, so problem solved for this round.
Thanks for commenting.

Offline Greenerpastures

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #8 on: September 05, 2018, 04:37:57 PM »
Hi John Mc
It seems that way here too, other than Stihl, which mostly come with .63,
and the time Husqvarna saddled me with a .50 on a 372XP, 
never had a Husqvarna since, blade never used, still refused to swap it for something
more appropriate to the horse power, imagine a 13 inch .50 bar on that thing.

Offline John Mc

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #9 on: September 05, 2018, 04:42:05 PM »
... I think I will manually attack  the saplings with what we call a bill hook, its about 52 inches long with a curved sharp blade 12 inches long by 1-3/4 by 1/4 inch wide, that will eliminate the bending and the saw
I think we had a thread on here a while ago about those (at lest I think it was on the FF). Folks were wondering about how they were intended to be used. I don't know that I've ever run into someone with a definitive answer on how you are supposed to wield one.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline Greenerpastures

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #10 on: September 05, 2018, 05:03:13 PM »
... I think I will manually attack  the saplings with what we call a bill hook, its about 52 inches long with a curved sharp blade 12 inches long by 1-3/4 by 1/4 inch wide, that will eliminate the bending and the saw
I think we had a thread on here a while ago about those (at lest I think it was on the FF). Folks were wondering about how they were intended to be used. I don't know that I've ever run into someone with a definitive answer on how you are supposed to wield one.
Hi
They are a fantastic tool, I used to spend full summers cutting hedges
with one, swing it like a hatchet, its a lot lighter and will take out two inch
branches usually with one whack at a downward angle of 60 degrees,
the angle is mostly governed by how much room you have to come in from
the side as you come down from above, tight situations almost straight down,
if you have more room to swing side ways, then 45 would be a better angle,
especially for thicker material as you would cut further into the side of it,
you have to know not to use too much force or you will simply break the handle,
saying that, I used to take out 3 inch branches with it, soon learned when I got
handed the iron shafted one, now hooking that on branch above your head by accident
would keep you alert, it pulled right out of your hand and you, cover your head
and do not look up, usually only the shaft landed on you, I had it down to a fine art,
run and listen for it landing was better then waiting for it it land on your head.

Funny thing, I went to buy a new one a while back, did all the usual stores,
one guy asked me can it be used from a tractor seat, I knew what he was
getting at, he did not stock them because no one used them, everything
is mechanized.

Offline Al_Smith

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #11 on: September 08, 2018, 12:59:54 PM »
 :D Time for me to fess up .I bought a new loop of chain for my 024 Stihl by just looking at the old one which was .325 by 50 thou .Would not cut worth a hoot .Then I looked at the bar which was plainly labeled with the driver count and very plainly labeled ---.063 .Worst part about that is the fact I should have known  better .Things do happen if you don't pay attention .

Offline labradorguy

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2018, 08:28:40 AM »
I buy .050 bars and I cut away with them. Then they are .058 bars and I keep cutting away with new chains. Then they are .063 and I keep on cutting with more new chains. Then they go in the scrap pile and we start again. Poor people have poor ways....
CAT 299Dxhp, CAT 311F
Mahindra mPower85 & 6500 4wds
Ext. deck Bell's 4000, 35' Conveyor, Griz, Tumbler
Ford trucks, POS skidder that will be the end of me
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Husqvarna 371xp and 395xp- my favs.

Offline lxskllr

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #13 on: September 15, 2018, 08:51:52 AM »
Just looked up a duck bill blade. Reminds me a bit of the Woodmans Pal machete. I use one of these at work. Very compact, and good for more precision cuts. A sharp pull with the hook will cut vines off near the ground. Then you can hook them gently to drag them out of the way. It's NOT that great for stuff like greenbrier cause it puts you too close to the action, but if it's all you got, it'll work.

My first was the wood handled version(got stolen), and now have the leather military version. Not sure which I prefer, but the military should have been peened better from the factory. It came apart, and I had to reassemble the leather washers; not fun... With foresight, I could have prevented that, but a user shouldn't have to correctly finish a product. The wood handle was better finished, but it has the drawbacks of a straight handle. If you don't use the loop, it can fly out of your hand. The tang is also thicker on the wood, so it should be more durable.

Anyway, I recommend either for general farm use, and would be especially good for being on a tractor. A random web search gave me this site...

woodsman pal

I have no idea if the site's any good, but those prices are pretty cheap. I think I paid $70+ for my military style from amazon if I remember right.

Offline HolmenTree

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #14 on: September 15, 2018, 08:57:51 AM »
I buy .050 bars and I cut away with them. Then they are .058 bars and I keep cutting away with new chains. Then they are .063 and I keep on cutting with more new chains. Then they go in the scrap pile and we start again. Poor people have poor ways....
labradorguy, how are your chains cutting when you got the cutters filed down small to the witness marks?
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Offline DR_Buck

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #15 on: September 15, 2018, 09:57:34 AM »
I have 4 different Huskys ( 385, 572, 55, 335) and they all came new with 050 and that's what I've been using on them since.    I have several different length bars that I use on the 385 and 572 but all are 050.    I never paid much attention to what is sold around where I live as for the last 15-20  years or so I bought almost all of my parts and supplies online.
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Offline mike_belben

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #16 on: September 16, 2018, 09:15:42 AM »
I buy .050 bars and I cut away with them. Then they are .058 bars and I keep cutting away with new chains. Then they are .063 and I keep on cutting with more new chains. Then they go in the scrap pile and we start again. Poor people have poor ways....
That gives me some reassurance, i was just about to do the same.  But now im second guessing my conclusions.


I bought a new no-name .050 bar last year or so and it has been given me ever worsening fits.  Dulls a chain very fast, binds in the kerf, cuts scalloped, wavy and crooked.  It would feel like a hammered bar with a huge rail burr and a slack chain just hanging off.  Only really worked with a fresh sharpening and really tight.  Bucks a few pieces and then starts getting fussy, dog in hard but not even dust coming out.  Eventually only the sprocket tip would really cut, id plunge back and forth in the track like an amazon freehand sawyer.  


Bar is straight, rails are dressed and squared, groove is clean, oil holes clear, sprocket greased, new .050 chain, bar is marked .050.. What gives.  Finally get the feeler gauge and the kerf matches a .058 bar kerf.  I thought it mismarked, but now i wonder if its wear.  Will have to look closer.



Anyone have luck with closing the rails up?
Revelation 3:20

Offline ZeroJunk

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #17 on: September 16, 2018, 10:07:41 AM »
They make a bar rail closer that you can get for $30-$35 . Don't know whether they are worth a flip or not.

Offline John Mc

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #18 on: September 16, 2018, 10:27:26 AM »
new .050 chain, bar is marked .050.. What gives. Finally get the feeler gauge and the kerf matches a .058 bar kerf. I thought it mismarked, but now i wonder if its wear.
 

My 36 bar gauge checker: A dime, a penny, and a quarter. Each coin should fit snugly in the groove of the indicated bars:
   Dime    = .050
   Penny   = .058
   Quarter = .063
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline labradorguy

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Re: Can I use .50 gauge chain on .58 gauge drive sprocket
« Reply #19 on: September 16, 2018, 11:57:14 AM »
I buy .050 bars and I cut away with them. Then they are .058 bars and I keep cutting away with new chains. Then they are .063 and I keep on cutting with more new chains. Then they go in the scrap pile and we start again. Poor people have poor ways....
labradorguy, how are your chains cutting when you got the cutters filed down small to the witness marks?
As I cut them back I adapt my file and grinding wheel size to keep the cutters right and I use them till the bitter end. When I get towards the end of the chain's life, I put them in a different bucket (everything I have gets carried around in different hydraulic oil buckets) and save them to use when I cut fencerow oaks. If I get into some barbwire or nails, no big loss....
One weekend warrior I know cuts with a chain till it dulls then throws it away and puts a new one on. LMAO! I guess that works for him, but with diesel and other costs as they are, there's not enough of a margin in logging for a person to be throwing away chains and bars left and right. I get the most out of everything I have.

One thing I do that I thought everyone did but I guess they don't is I turn the oil flow up to max on every saw. Really helps with chain life. 

I also carry a couple dozen chains out with me in the morning. I will touch a chain up once with a file then it goes in the sharpening bucket for the grinder. Ive saw some guys who NEVER take a chain off, they just keep filing away with these stupid looking filing contraptions that remind me of the garbage that some guys buy to fix their golf swing...LOL. The bar never gets maintained this way, the chain groove never gets cleaned out, sprocket never cleaned out, and the holes in the bar never get unplugged. That shortens up everything's life.

Not on topic, but I run my saws at 32:1 - 40:1 instead of the 50:1 that is recommended and I use pure gas in them. Corn oil is for when I am frying taters, not for engines I make a living with.
CAT 299Dxhp, CAT 311F
Mahindra mPower85 & 6500 4wds
Ext. deck Bell's 4000, 35' Conveyor, Griz, Tumbler
Ford trucks, POS skidder that will be the end of me
Woodlandia mill
Husqvarna 371xp and 395xp- my favs.


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