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Author Topic: Recommend me a chainsaw  (Read 2378 times)

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Offline teakwood

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #20 on: September 25, 2018, 08:43:20 AM »
The saw is a little harder to start with the opened decomp valve because the lack of compression but it's easier to turn over.

On the 361 and smaller i don't use them but i find it useful on the 066. On the 088 it was absolutely necessary IMO or the saw almost flips you over without the pushed decomp button.
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Online Southside logger

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #21 on: September 25, 2018, 01:28:15 PM »
When the saw is cold I will use the decomp button, then pull the choke and SLOWLY roll the piston a few times with the starter cord - no where near fast enough to get it to start, but enough to move some air through.  Then I will give it a regular pull, doing so on that first real pull she will come to life, enough to bump out the button,  push in the choke and next pull and she is running, basically two pulls and go to work.  When warm I just skip the slow roll and still use the decomp, runs right away.  Less wear and tear on the recoil and cord this way too.  

At 6'1" 250 lbs, I could muscle through it, then again I could muscle logs out of the woods too, but what would be the point of either?
Franklin buncher and skidder
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Offline olcowhand

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #22 on: September 25, 2018, 05:45:37 PM »
I'm not a Pro Logger or a Manly Man :D, so I consider the Decomp button a blessing. I'm in the MS 461/ MS 261 CM Club, and I don't want the most strenuous thing I do with a saw all day to be starting it.
When I saw HolmenTree's Post on the MS 261 CM, I traded my smaller (easier to pull w/o Decomp, but couldn't pull a drunk off a Barstool at 2:00 am) saw to get it. The Decomp is a blessing on that saw; but I don't know if it (or the MS 461) would start just as easy without the Decomp, because I haven't once neglected (or refused) to use it.
My shoulder, which was rebuilt in spring 2015- will be forever grateful for the Time- tested marvel that is the Decomp button [Other well- known Engines in our history (Can you say "Knucklehead?) have used this technology...].
Back on Topic- Matariki, the MS 461 that I have has been a great saw that handles some pretty tough Hardwoods with a 20" b/c. And it has a Decomp button, if you choose to use it.
They say the mind is the first to go; I'm glad it's something I don't use!

Ezekiel 36:26-27

Offline matariki

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #23 on: September 27, 2018, 09:26:34 PM »
When the saw is cold I will use the decomp button, then pull the choke and SLOWLY roll the piston a few times with the starter cord - no where near fast enough to get it to start, but enough to move some air through.  Then I will give it a regular pull, doing so on that first real pull she will come to life, enough to bump out the button,  push in the choke and next pull and she is running, basically two pulls and go to work.  When warm I just skip the slow roll and still use the decomp, runs right away.  Less wear and tear on the recoil and cord this way too.  
Towards the end of the course I was on, this was the method I started to use. It worked beautifully on the Husky I borrowed from my tutor (372), this was from the warm start position. Talking to my tutor asking him what chainsaw he recommends, he told me to go for the Husqvarna 372xp. Unfortunately its a model not sold through dealerships in New Zealand, so I'm thinking of getting one off Ebay.

Has anyone bought a chainsaw off Ebay before from a dealer?

Online Southside logger

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #24 on: September 27, 2018, 09:36:55 PM »
If it's from a legitimate dealer I would not be too concerned, they have a physical presence - brick and mortar - and ebay is just another way to advertise their products. If you don't have any luck finding one send me a PM and I will give you the contact info of the dealer I have bought several 372's from.  They are very competitive price wise and have been excellent from a service perspective.  
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Offline 630red

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #25 on: September 28, 2018, 05:45:25 PM »
we fit loads of starter pawls and pulleys to the bigger cc saws,and when you tell the owner about the decomp button most dont know or dont use it,so i reckon its designed for easier on the user and the starter

Offline HolmenTree

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #26 on: October 05, 2018, 10:13:15 AM »
When the saw is cold I will use the decomp button, then pull the choke and SLOWLY roll the piston a few times with the starter cord - no where near fast enough to get it to start, but enough to move some air through.  Then I will give it a regular pull, doing so on that first real pull she will come to life, enough to bump out the button,  push in the choke and next pull and she is running, basically two pulls and go to work.  When warm I just skip the slow roll and still use the decomp, runs right away.  Less wear and tear on the recoil and cord this way too.  
Towards the end of the course I was on, this was the method I started to use. It worked beautifully on the Husky I borrowed from my tutor (372), this was from the warm start position. Talking to my tutor asking him what chainsaw he recommends, he told me to go for the Husqvarna 372xp. Unfortunately its a model not sold through dealerships in New Zealand, so I'm thinking of getting one off Ebay.

Has anyone bought a chainsaw off Ebay before from a dealer?
matariki, I'm a little late here. 372Xtorq is a good choice, but a MS461 for your region is a better choice.
Australia, NZ and Tasmania Stihl trumps it for service and parts availability.  Big factor is the bars and chains are not compatible on either saw. Service is second.
There's a well known  Tasmanian lady arborist by the name of Fiona Doe aka Bermy. She debated what you're doing and she picked the MS461 and she speaks very highly about it.
She's about 5 ft 1 inch and about 110 to 120 lbs so no problems for her.
Get the 461 with a 20" Stihl ES Light bar and have a 28" for a spare.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Offline reride82

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #27 on: October 05, 2018, 11:29:18 AM »
When the saw is cold I will use the decomp button, then pull the choke and SLOWLY roll the piston a few times with the starter cord - no where near fast enough to get it to start, but enough to move some air through.  Then I will give it a regular pull, doing so on that first real pull she will come to life, enough to bump out the button,  push in the choke and next pull and she is running, basically two pulls and go to work.  When warm I just skip the slow roll and still use the decomp, runs right away.  Less wear and tear on the recoil and cord this way too.  
Towards the end of the course I was on, this was the method I started to use. It worked beautifully on the Husky I borrowed from my tutor (372), this was from the warm start position. Talking to my tutor asking him what chainsaw he recommends, he told me to go for the Husqvarna 372xp. Unfortunately its a model not sold through dealerships in New Zealand, so I'm thinking of getting one off Ebay.

Has anyone bought a chainsaw off Ebay before from a dealer?
matariki, I'm a little late here. 372Xtorq is a good choice, but a MS461 for your region is a better choice.
Australia, NZ and Tasmania Stihl trumps it for service and parts availability.  Big factor is the bars and chains are not compatible on either saw. Service is second.
There's a well known  Tasmanian lady arborist by the name of Fiona Doe aka Bermy. She debated what you're doing and she picked the MS461 and she speaks very highly about it.
She's about 5 ft 1 inch and about 110 to 120 lbs so no problems for her.
Get the 461 with a 20" Stihl ES Light bar and have a 28" for a spare.


I'm with Holmen Tree on this. Although I love my 372 husqvarna for a firewood saw, having a good dealer/service agent would sway me to the MS461. You're trying to get into the business of firewood, not chainsaw repair. If you are good with two-strokes and chainsaws, then go for the 372. But, if you aren't, leave that side of the equation to a dealer. If you buy a saw off ebay, will your local dealer service it? I know here a dealer tends to favor the customers that purchase saws from them. I also second getting at least one spare bar to help you get a saw unstuck, just remove the powerhead and use your spare bar to cut out the stuck bar.

Levi
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Online Southside logger

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #28 on: October 05, 2018, 12:18:11 PM »
I will say that dealer support was the driver that led me to become loyal to Husky. At the end of the day all I really care about is that the saw is reliable and does what I need it to do using a reasonable amount of fuel. I really don't care about the name. So there is weight to that factor. 
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Offline esteadle

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #29 on: October 05, 2018, 05:49:31 PM »
Many folks are giving you good advice to by a good saw. 

I'm going oppo and I'm going to give you some bad advice to buy 2 bad saws. 

Get on whatever your local "Craigslist" is in NZ and find 2 used, but working Poulan 4218s. These are 42 cc saws that run an 18" bar, and S52 chains. These should cost you less than 1/2 of what you'd pay for them new. 

When you get them, plan to use the better saw as your primary and the lesser saw as backup and for parts scavenging when the good one breaks down. Learn about this saw by working on it yourself. Pull it apart when it breaks. Swap the parts. Figure out all the little nuances and quirks. 

When I look for these saws on craigslist, I always find them. Usually I can pick one up for $60 bucks or less. these saws sell for 150 new in big box stores. I run them for a year or two, and I beat the crap out of them until they run no more. Then I get another. 

I have a couple big Stihl saws I use for big stuff, but when I want to get some quick stuff done, I pick up a small, lightweight, agile crap saw and I use it as hard as I feel like. My logging buddies laugh at me, but they stop laughing when I ask how much they paid for theirs, and I tell them I could buy 8 of these pieces of junk for that much. And they run. They start. They cut like any other saw with a good sharp chain. 

Timber Harvester 30HT26 (setworks, hydraulic) Stihl 880 (36" bar).

Offline lxskllr

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #30 on: October 05, 2018, 06:12:09 PM »
There's a lot to be said about a cheap saw. I've done a fair amount of cutting with my PoulanPro, and only got a Stihl this year for a big job. Even on the big job, I used the Poulan to buck a log that was 30% buried in the ground. I had the bar jammed into the dirt getting that log cut. I wouldn't have like doing that with the Stihl. The PoulanPro was paid for on the first job I bought it for ~8 years ago, and everything else has been a bonus afaic. It's now running kind of rough. I'm hoping it'll straighten out with some good run time, but if it doesn't, oh well.

I certainly wouldn't center my business on a PoulanPro, but it makes a fantastic limbing saw, and a "I don't want my Stihl anywhere near that" saw. Takes the strain of the major equipment for a fairly low price.

Offline barbender

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #31 on: October 05, 2018, 06:29:22 PM »
Those 42cc Poulans should work dandy on the 3-4' diameter wood she will likely be cutting.😁
Too many irons in the fire

Offline esteadle

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #32 on: October 05, 2018, 07:03:49 PM »
Those 42cc Poulans should work dandy on the 3-4' diameter wood she will likely be cutting.😁
Manuka and Kanuka don't get all that big. 
Kanuka and Manuka - ecological charateristics and values
Kanuka generally has faster growth rates and reaches a larger size so it is commonly seen as trees, 10-15 m tall and more, and 15-40 cm diameter.
Manuka generally stops at about 6-8 m height and 7-10 cm diameter, or less on the poorest soils (e.g. 12 m on the Te Ahumata plateau).

She ain't cutting 3-4' diameters. 
She's trimming and bucking bushes at the landing. 
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Offline lxskllr

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #33 on: October 05, 2018, 07:53:56 PM »
In any case, I wouldn't want to limb with my 48" log cutter. Makes for a long day. If *one* saw is a hard number, then I'd take the bigger saw and deal with it, but something like a Poulan is good way to shave dollars, and still have a workable saw.

Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Recommend me a chainsaw
« Reply #34 on: October 09, 2018, 07:44:52 AM »
Matariki, the guys have covered which saw all good advice. Chainsaws are like a trophy wife they like to be doodled over and kept clean. Saw maintenance is the secret to a saws long happy life. Very important to remove the bar and clean the groove and blow out the air filter. Good filing or grinding will add years to the saws life. Good luck on your venture, take it from an old man  be careful and save your back. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece


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