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Author Topic: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR  (Read 4950 times)

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Offline RAYGYVER

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #60 on: October 19, 2018, 08:44:05 AM »
Any thoughts on this? This still allows for easy disassembly, and solves the issues of the rebar penetrating the moisture barrier, and the top faces staying in plane. Negatives would be using a lot of wood screws.



 

Offline DPatton

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #61 on: October 19, 2018, 08:49:10 AM »
Congrats on the new mill! 
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Work isn't so bad when you enjoy what your doing.

Offline DPatton

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #62 on: October 19, 2018, 08:51:05 AM »
Any thoughts on this? This still allows for easy disassembly, and solves the issues of the rebar penetrating the moisture barrier, and the top faces staying in plane. Negatives would be using a lot of wood screws.


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

If you went with this method I would suggest you lay the bottom layer on a diagonal to the top layer. 
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Work isn't so bad when you enjoy what your doing.

Offline RAYGYVER

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #63 on: October 19, 2018, 09:17:54 AM »
Any thoughts on this? This still allows for easy disassembly, and solves the issues of the rebar penetrating the moisture barrier, and the top faces staying in plane. Negatives would be using a lot of wood screws.


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

If you went with this method I would suggest you lay the bottom layer on a diagonal to the top layer.
I am not following your thought. There is one wood layer. Under that is foam...I am not sure what you mean. Thanks for the comment.  8)

Offline RAYGYVER

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #64 on: October 19, 2018, 09:19:52 AM »
Congrats on the new mill!
Hey thanks! Looks like you've got a nice one yourself! That's a really nice one. Maybe I'll get there one day, but I'll see how we like using this one and doing the wood projects it'll bring us first.

Offline RAYGYVER

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #65 on: October 19, 2018, 09:26:01 AM »
Any thoughts on this? This still allows for easy disassembly, and solves the issues of the rebar penetrating the moisture barrier, and the top faces staying in plane. Negatives would be using a lot of wood screws.


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

If you went with this method I would suggest you lay the bottom layer on a diagonal to the top layer.
Okay, I think I know what you meant, There is not two layers of wood. Its one 2" thick board with a square cut on each side. You alternate the boards to lock them together. I see you probably thought there are two layers of 1" thick boards. 

Offline Crusarius

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #66 on: October 19, 2018, 09:26:52 AM »
Dpatton has a good point. of you have all the layers going the same direction they will pull apart. its like plywood, they alternate the grain between layers to resist pull apart.

Diagonal or perpendicular to the floor will make a ton of sense. I would lean towards just perpendicular since it is a lot less material usage.
I knew what I thought I meant.

Offline RAYGYVER

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #67 on: October 19, 2018, 09:33:48 AM »
Dpatton has a good point. of you have all the layers going the same direction they will pull apart. its like plywood, they alternate the grain between layers to resist pull apart.

Diagonal or perpendicular to the floor will make a ton of sense. I would lean towards just perpendicular since it is a lot less material usage.
This might clear things up. One layer, not two.
<b
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #68 on: October 19, 2018, 09:44:50 AM »
what I was referring to was the substrate not the wood. 2 layers of wood is unnecessary.
I knew what I thought I meant.

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #69 on: October 19, 2018, 10:17:39 AM »
The substrate is foam board. Its not going to matter what direction I run the foam. Under that is the sand/gravel compacted layer. So, I am not sure exactly what layer you are referring to that I would run diagonally or perpendicular. 

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #70 on: October 19, 2018, 10:27:16 AM »
if you run the long seam of the foam board to match the long seam of the wood then you will have a spot that will pull itself apart over time. you want to make the seams perpendicular to each other so they resist pulling apart.

aka alternating grain.
I knew what I thought I meant.

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #71 on: October 19, 2018, 10:36:28 AM »
if you run the long seam of the foam board to match the long seam of the wood then you will have a spot that will pull itself apart over time. you want to make the seams perpendicular to each other so they resist pulling apart.

aka alternating grain.
Ok. I get what you are saying. It is possible the long end of a wood board might rest directly onto the long edge of foam board. So yeah, good point. I'll make sure they are perp.
Anyone know what kind of tape is used in joining foam board? Certainly regular ole duct tape isn't going to work....or would it?

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #72 on: October 19, 2018, 10:39:02 AM »

Offline Hilltop366

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #73 on: October 19, 2018, 10:46:47 AM »
I have been working on a "super cooler" for a off grid camp and using leftover pieces of foam board to make a foam box, I taped the box together with regular duct tape and the pieces that I stretched a bit to get some tension on to hold things tight did not stay on the pieces that I did not stretch sort of stayed and the pieces that I went all around the box and returned to tape stayed.

In short the tape did not stick well to the foam but did stick well to itself so far.

The foam box will be covered with a wood box in the end so it won't matter for my application.

Offline DPatton

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #74 on: October 19, 2018, 10:51:57 AM »
Your right I did think you were showing two 1" layers of wood, my bad.

  However I would suggest against the method you are proposing simply because normal seasonal movement of your floor boards will split each board at your fastening pattern. a board that wide will shrink and or swell significantly with moisture and humidity changes. That's why most wood floors are built using narrower boards. 
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Offline DPatton

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #75 on: October 19, 2018, 11:02:07 AM »
I have been working on a "super cooler" for a off grid camp and using leftover pieces of foam board to make a foam box, I taped the box together with regular duct tape and the pieces that I stretched a bit to get some tension on to hold things tight did not stay on the pieces that I did not stretch sort of stayed and the pieces that I went all around the box and returned to tape stayed.

In short the tape did not stick well to the foam but did stick well to itself so far.

The foam box will be covered with a wood box in the end so it won't matter for my application.
Hilltop,
I built one similar to that years ago. It is 4' x 4' x 2'+ tall. I made a plywood box with a 1' x 1' angle iron frame to hold it all together. Placed a 15 mil plastic liner inside of the wood box and snug fit 3" thick blue DOW rigid foam on all sides, bottom and top. Then installed side handles, keyed locks, and a chain stop for the lid. it was built to fit the back of a full sized pickup bed and has worked great for icing down elk, antelope, or hogs for the trip home. It also serves as an nice dry storage box in the back of a pickup. 
TimberKing 1600, 30' gooseneck trailer, Chevy HD2500, Echo Chainsaw, 60" Logrite.

Work isn't so bad when you enjoy what your doing.

Offline RAYGYVER

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #76 on: October 19, 2018, 11:15:33 AM »
Your right I did think you were showing two 1" layers of wood, my bad.

  However I would suggest against the method you are proposing simply because normal seasonal movement of your floor boards will split each board at your fastening pattern. a board that wide will shrink and or swell significantly with moisture and humidity changes. That's why most wood floors are built using narrower boards.
hmmmmm......I was not factoring in the shrinkage and swelling......
Maybe a narrower board should be spec'd here. The big question is can I make it narrow enough to still fasten using screws? If not, then the next question would be, can I get away with no fasteners? Just let the boards float. At that point, I should just use full 12" wide boards. I may have to vacuum out the seams a couple times a year.....hmmmmm
I should at this point remind myself that this floor isn't going to perform like concrete. So I will need to engineer the negative traits to an acceptable level. Shrinkage being the bigger issue....thats what she said.
 

Offline rjwoelk

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #77 on: October 19, 2018, 11:21:49 AM »
They have a red construction tape i think it maybe called tuck tape used around windows plywood joints sheet foam joints. Check HD.
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #78 on: October 19, 2018, 11:36:49 AM »
make is out of 2x4's screw them together in 12" pieces then set them together and let them float.
I knew what I thought I meant.

Offline RAYGYVER

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Re: WOOD GARAGE FLOOR
« Reply #79 on: October 19, 2018, 12:23:30 PM »
make is out of 2x4's screw them together in 12" pieces then set them together and let them float.
That sounds like a lot more work honestly. I might go with 2" thick and 8" wide. Do a 10' x 10' test area and see how it performs.


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