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Author Topic: Sawmill Build - Planning Stages  (Read 971 times)

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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Sawmill Build - Planning Stages
« Reply #20 on: November 05, 2018, 07:57:52 AM »
I see money. Lots of money. and you will definitely need a set of wipers on top and bottom side of the linear bearings. My only real concern is how well the linear bearing will hold up to the weather. Some sawdust can be corrosive.

My mill is 2 post. the sawframe goes up and down fine with the 2 sleeves. the only reason for the 4 post would be to support the other 2 posts. There is no reason you need to connect all 4 posts together. Balance between the sawframe and engine is going to be your key design aspect. 

If you do make it perfectly balanced it should move real nice. But then you will probably need bearings on the mast to keep the sawframe from rocking causing waves. Some planned balance may be better. Leave one end heavier than the other and it will not want to rock.

Offline sdboers

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Re: Sawmill Build - Planning Stages
« Reply #21 on: November 05, 2018, 08:08:03 AM »
The cost isn't bad.  About $120 CAD for 2 rails and 4 bearing blocks - shipping included.  Although you can find the same things for WAAAAAYY more money than that!

What I'm hearing is - "Stop over thinking this.  Leave it telescoping on two posts and move on dude..."  :)

Sean.
Random acts of kindness MUST outweigh random acts of violence each and every day. Make your mark today.

Offline Joe Hillmann

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Re: Sawmill Build - Planning Stages
« Reply #22 on: November 05, 2018, 03:42:07 PM »
The cost isn't bad.  About $120 CAD for 2 rails and 4 bearing blocks - shipping included.  Although you can find the same things for WAAAAAYY more money than that!

What I'm hearing is - "Stop over thinking this.  Leave it telescoping on two posts and move on dude..."  :)

Sean.
What good do you think those extra two rails will do? 
Mine is two sliders that are a very sloppy fit on two 2x2 posts.  I drilled several 5/8 holes into the sliders and welded a 1/2 nut over each hole.  Then I could put a bolt into each nut to take the play out.  Once I had the engine and battery and fuel tank on the head was back heavy and that took out all the play.  On some occasions when I raise the head up higher than I really should without the engine running it will get stuck and can't be lowered.  All I have to to is start it up and the vibration of the engine allows it to come down again.

Offline sdboers

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Re: Sawmill Build - Planning Stages
« Reply #23 on: November 05, 2018, 04:29:39 PM »
I guess in my head - my initial thinking was that 4 posts with sliders would keep the platform more level and help avoid any binding.  I also figured it would keep the whole unit more stable - less play.  It sounds more like I'd be causing the problem I'm trying to solve (not the first time I've done that in my life!) - and precisely the reason I'm posting here before marching off and building on my own.

I haven't heard a single person say it's a great idea, and I've heard plenty of folks point out valid reasons why it would be a concern.  I learned a long time ago that if everyone is giving you the same advice - they're all wrong.  errr...  I mean - they probably have a point.  :)

So - I think at this point I will keep the 4 posts for a nice solid cage - and only use the front two with sliders to support the head and platform itself.  Sounds like a 4 corner chain lift would also be overkill - perhaps better to stick with two on that as well.  Sometimes we get stuck on a notion in our head and need to be talked out of it.

Sean.
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Sawmill Build - Planning Stages
« Reply #24 on: November 05, 2018, 04:54:38 PM »
now just for fun here is another scenario.

I like the linear bearings. they make for super smooth movement and are typically pretty stout as long as they are sized appropriately. Put the linear bearings on the back 2 posts, run the chain to the front 2 posts. Now you get the stability of the linear bearings for up down and left right movement but the easy lift with the chains to the correct spot. The front posts would then act as lifting and rigidity for the entire carriage.

No sleeve or connection to the front posts just let it hang between them. The rear posts would be the guide. In fact if you did it this way you would only need a single chain in the center for lifting. you could actually mount the motor to the sawframe and not have to have long cables to power it.

another thought. use a winch for raise and lower. mount the winch where the battery tray would be between the rear posts. the run cable up to top of frame and back down to sawframe. Winch is still on frame next to battery so short power cables. This could also give you some ability to double the pull to slow the movement or get more torque. means you could get away with a $50 harbor freight winch. 

I miss having autocad at home otherwise I would do a quick sketch. Man I wish I thought about this stuff when I was designing my mill.

Offline sdboers

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Re: Sawmill Build - Planning Stages
« Reply #25 on: November 05, 2018, 05:12:13 PM »
Wow...  That's some different thinking - very interesting.  I'm not sure my brain would let me suspend the front like that - it's screaming at me just thinking of it.  I've got all winter to mull that one around in my head...  :)  I'd be more inclined to attach 2 more linear rails up front than to simply leave it hanging...

The linear bearings I had looked at were 20mm (0.8").  I think if I were to do what you are suggesting - I would want to up those to 30mm (1.2").  Cost also goes up of course.

I am absolutely going to change the winch \ chain lift.  I will go through at least one idle pulley to half the speed and double the torque.  I still like more than one lift point as it can help even out a small degree of imbalance.

Sean.
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Sawmill Build - Planning Stages
« Reply #26 on: November 05, 2018, 06:13:00 PM »
is .8" the diameter of the rail? if so thats more than enough. The linear bearings will take care of any twisting as long as the sawframe is built right. Means the sawframe should be relatively well balanced and have the lifting point in a location to keep it balanced.

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Re: Sawmill Build - Planning Stages
« Reply #27 on: November 05, 2018, 06:58:53 PM »
Yes.  20mm / 0.8" is the diameter of the rail.  The set I posted has 71" rails x 0.8" diameter.
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