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Author Topic: Stihl MS362 (Not CM)  (Read 227 times)

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Offline lxskllr

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Stihl MS362 (Not CM)
« on: December 24, 2018, 01:32:50 PM »
I impulsively bought a MS362 a few months ago cause it was a good deal. Not sure how good a deal is when you don't really need something(I already had a 362cm), but here I am. I got the saw, a case, 20" laminated bar, and a green chain for $550 after tax and everything. The saw was brand new. The only fuel it had seen was from factory testing. Well, I've been vacillating on what to do with it. I wanted a 20" bar and case, but didn't really need the powerhead. I figure I could get the rest of the stuff free or almost so if I sold the powerhead. OTOH, I then have to deal with selling it, craigslist flakes, and other hassles...


Today, I decided I'd keep the whole thing. I'll take it to work for cutting when I get free time. I've been having to guess when I think I'll get saw time, and it's a hassle lugging two saws, and two gear bags into work, especially if I don't end up using them.


Fueled it, oiled it, turned the oiler all the way up, set the switch and pulled. and pulled, and pulled. It popped, then I pulled, and pulled, and pulled some more. I stop and look at it, then it dawns on me. I need to take it off choke. How quaint  :^D  I've gotten used to the Mtronic on my cm, and didn't think of that. I'm used to the routine on my smaller saws, but a Stihl in hand = pull the cord only. After that, it fired right up. I noodled some spruce rounds I had, and performance was decent. I expect it to get better as I run more fuel in it. The 20" bar is nice. My cm has only seen a 25" bar. It's nose heavy, and doesn't handle as nice. Very pleased so far.


I have one question... I turned the high screw up as far it go before hitting a stop. Runs ok. Of course, it ran ok before I turned the screw up too. Hard to see what's going on in the adjustment screw holes. Seems like they're about 3' into the saw  :^D  Is removing the limiters something I should expect to do? I don't really trust myself with adjustment, especially on a good saw, but I'll do what I have to. Any insight? Looks like I'd have to take some amount of the saw apart to get rid of the limiter caps. I'd just as soon leave it alone if Stihl comes tuned well enough, if not optimally from the factory.


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