The Forestry Forum is sponsored in part by:

iDRY Vacuum Kilns


Forestry Forum
Sponsored by:


TimberKing Sawmills



Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools



Norwood Industries Inc.


Sawmill & Woodlot Magazine



Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

STIHLDealers.com sponsored by Northeast STIHL


Woodland Sawmills

Peterson Swingmills

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades

Turbosawmill

Sawmill Exchange

Michigan Firewood, your BRUTE FORCE Authorized Dealer

FARMA


Council Tool

Baker Products

ECHO-Bearcat

iDRY Wood Lumber Vacuum Drying for everyon

Baltic Abrasives Technologies




Author Topic: Building log cabin with green logs  (Read 1195 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline barbender

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 6009
  • Age: 43
  • Location: Deer River MN
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Building log cabin with green logs
« Reply #20 on: December 27, 2018, 03:17:27 PM »
I don't like the idea of screws as they can cause settling problems. If you provide relief for them, unless you have springs under them they're not providing any "hold down". On hand scribed log homes, wooden dowels provide the lateral resistance. So will the window and door backs you install. If you want something that will resist uplift, threaded rod that goes all the way from the top plate to the bottom plate is the way to go.
Too many irons in the fire

Offline Banjo picker

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 2686
  • Location: Iuka Ms
  • Gender: Male
  • A goal without a plan is just a dream. Elbert H.
    • Share Post
Re: Building log cabin with green logs
« Reply #21 on: December 27, 2018, 03:31:36 PM »
And if you are like me and too cheap to spring for the whole threaded rod, you could do this...top and bottom.

bottom is hilted in with epoxy.  Banjo
Cooks AC 36--Prentice 210C--Morgan edger--Kubota M7040 with loader--Case 580 K with extendahoe--Case 850C dozer--Int 1700 series twin cylinder dump/log/flatbed truck--logging arch--2 Logrite mill sp.--Cat claw sharpening system--And a bulldog to make sure it all stays here.

Offline Don P

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 5088
  • Location: Southwestern VA
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
    • Calculator Index
Re: Building log cabin with green logs
« Reply #22 on: December 27, 2018, 05:10:35 PM »
Thanks everyone! Would anyone know about the shrinkage in that? Like would my logs individually separate some or would the entire wall just shrink together? I really appreciate all the positive feedback! How would I go about putting my roof on if the walls shrink and windows etc.? Again thank you all!

Some things to think about. It's going to sound like I'm being fussy but bear with me for a minute and think about what is going on. Shrinkage and settlement are not the same thing. Shrinkage is the wood shrinking as it loses moisture. Settlement is the logs moving downward, in response to shrinkage. But settlement can be caused by more things going on. In a scribe fitted home like firefighter's there are a few more things causing settlement, compression of the thin edges of the scribed lateral joints. Those edges are bearing on tangential grain which has about twice the shrinkage of radial. The coped laterals spreading as the check forms in them, also called slumping. For anyone interested you can find all of this described in more detail in the log home standard.

The 1/4" per foot I mentioned is from the prescriptive radial settlement table in that standard, for a milled white wood log in a warm humid climate drying from fiber saturation point, green to dry.  Can you go more, in most cases it doesn't hurt anything. During the development of that code a number of us wrote in to disagree with the logic behind that table, in the real world the settlement is actually less. Why. First, the settlement allowance is based on shrinkage data from the USFPL. Those shrinkage numbers were based on very thin radial and tangential samples, free to move in response to moisture changes. A full sized timber doesn't shrink as much as a piece of veneer because it is somewhat bound internally by differing stresses and rays. Second, when a check forms the wood has indeed shrunk but the dimension of the timber has not changed as much as the amount of shrinkage. Part of the shrinkage is in that check.

Will your wall shrink uniformly, all together and remain perfectly tight or will there be some separation. There will probably be some separation. For one the shrinkage numbers are averages, each log is an individual and will shrink somewhat differently. Not all will be straight grained, some will twist to a greater or lesser degree. Some will have knots, ever notice in a dried board that the knots are proud, longitudinal grain perp to the axis of the board.

To settle around a fastener, any fastener, the rows of fasteners need to be plumb. If they wander around at divergent angles nothing is settling. If a log twists as it dries it is certainly going to put friction on the fasteners before allowing any settlement. Can a 2500 lb spring overcome the twist and bow of a large drying timber? Can you stack an entire wall of such timber and then successfully tighten it all? Will all members be in plane? One group of chink builders intentionally builds log homes that do not settle. They drive rebar at opposing angles from row to row to lock the height. The logs shrink individually but are hung in place on the opposing pieces of rebar.

The roof springs from the top course of the log walls, assuming it is only bearing on the logs, as they settle the roof is simply along for the ride. As long as the logs settle somewhat uniformly and that it isn't tied to something that doesn't settle, like a chimney, the roof remains in plane.


Offline Nsp0005

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 7
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: Building log cabin with green logs
« Reply #23 on: December 27, 2018, 07:19:07 PM »
Yeah thatís why Iím doing butt and pass method to avoid that. 

Offline pappy19

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 890
  • Age: 74
  • Location: Garden Valley, Idaho
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: Building log cabin with green logs
« Reply #24 on: January 02, 2019, 07:34:58 PM »
Why not just use standing dead? I used standing dead Idaho white pine and have lived in our log home for 18 years. Swedish cope round logs, 3 stories and no movement whatsoever.
2008 F-250 V-10
2007 Lincoln LT
1996 Ford Bronco
Kubota 900 RTV
Shindiawa fan


Share via delicious Share via digg Share via facebook Share via linkedin Share via pinterest Share via reddit Share via stumble Share via tumblr Share via twitter

xx
Building a cabin with green lumber?

Started by GDinMaine on Sawmills and Milling

28 Replies
11073 Views
Last post July 10, 2013, 07:55:00 PM
by drobertson
xx
Got a question on building with green logs

Started by Treeclimber on Timber Framing/Log construction

26 Replies
5491 Views
Last post June 06, 2016, 10:08:48 AM
by Treeclimber
xx
building logs for house or cabin

Started by arojay on Forestry and Logging

2 Replies
1318 Views
Last post March 20, 2008, 04:25:48 PM
by arojay
xx
Using green live edge beams in a lake cabin

Started by duaneb on Drying and Processing

4 Replies
1833 Views
Last post March 31, 2012, 04:14:01 PM
by D L Bahler
 


Powered by EzPortal