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Author Topic: Building log cabin with green logs  (Read 1195 times)

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Offline barbender

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Re: Building log cabin with green logs
« Reply #20 on: December 27, 2018, 03:17:27 PM »
I don't like the idea of screws as they can cause settling problems. If you provide relief for them, unless you have springs under them they're not providing any "hold down". On hand scribed log homes, wooden dowels provide the lateral resistance. So will the window and door backs you install. If you want something that will resist uplift, threaded rod that goes all the way from the top plate to the bottom plate is the way to go.
Too many irons in the fire

Offline Banjo picker

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Re: Building log cabin with green logs
« Reply #21 on: December 27, 2018, 03:31:36 PM »
And if you are like me and too cheap to spring for the whole threaded rod, you could do and bottom.

bottom is hilted in with epoxy.  Banjo
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Offline Don P

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Re: Building log cabin with green logs
« Reply #22 on: December 27, 2018, 05:10:35 PM »
Thanks everyone! Would anyone know about the shrinkage in that? Like would my logs individually separate some or would the entire wall just shrink together? I really appreciate all the positive feedback! How would I go about putting my roof on if the walls shrink and windows etc.? Again thank you all!

Some things to think about. It's going to sound like I'm being fussy but bear with me for a minute and think about what is going on. Shrinkage and settlement are not the same thing. Shrinkage is the wood shrinking as it loses moisture. Settlement is the logs moving downward, in response to shrinkage. But settlement can be caused by more things going on. In a scribe fitted home like firefighter's there are a few more things causing settlement, compression of the thin edges of the scribed lateral joints. Those edges are bearing on tangential grain which has about twice the shrinkage of radial. The coped laterals spreading as the check forms in them, also called slumping. For anyone interested you can find all of this described in more detail in the log home standard.

The 1/4" per foot I mentioned is from the prescriptive radial settlement table in that standard, for a milled white wood log in a warm humid climate drying from fiber saturation point, green to dry.  Can you go more, in most cases it doesn't hurt anything. During the development of that code a number of us wrote in to disagree with the logic behind that table, in the real world the settlement is actually less. Why. First, the settlement allowance is based on shrinkage data from the USFPL. Those shrinkage numbers were based on very thin radial and tangential samples, free to move in response to moisture changes. A full sized timber doesn't shrink as much as a piece of veneer because it is somewhat bound internally by differing stresses and rays. Second, when a check forms the wood has indeed shrunk but the dimension of the timber has not changed as much as the amount of shrinkage. Part of the shrinkage is in that check.

Will your wall shrink uniformly, all together and remain perfectly tight or will there be some separation. There will probably be some separation. For one the shrinkage numbers are averages, each log is an individual and will shrink somewhat differently. Not all will be straight grained, some will twist to a greater or lesser degree. Some will have knots, ever notice in a dried board that the knots are proud, longitudinal grain perp to the axis of the board.

To settle around a fastener, any fastener, the rows of fasteners need to be plumb. If they wander around at divergent angles nothing is settling. If a log twists as it dries it is certainly going to put friction on the fasteners before allowing any settlement. Can a 2500 lb spring overcome the twist and bow of a large drying timber? Can you stack an entire wall of such timber and then successfully tighten it all? Will all members be in plane? One group of chink builders intentionally builds log homes that do not settle. They drive rebar at opposing angles from row to row to lock the height. The logs shrink individually but are hung in place on the opposing pieces of rebar.

The roof springs from the top course of the log walls, assuming it is only bearing on the logs, as they settle the roof is simply along for the ride. As long as the logs settle somewhat uniformly and that it isn't tied to something that doesn't settle, like a chimney, the roof remains in plane.

Offline Nsp0005

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Re: Building log cabin with green logs
« Reply #23 on: December 27, 2018, 07:19:07 PM »
Yeah thatís why Iím doing butt and pass method to avoid that. 

Offline pappy19

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Re: Building log cabin with green logs
« Reply #24 on: January 02, 2019, 07:34:58 PM »
Why not just use standing dead? I used standing dead Idaho white pine and have lived in our log home for 18 years. Swedish cope round logs, 3 stories and no movement whatsoever.
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