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Author Topic: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build  (Read 1707 times)

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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #20 on: January 11, 2019, 01:56:33 PM »
when you push on one side of the carriage that side will move, then after the frame twists enough the other side will move causing a racking / walking motion. 

In ideal situations you do not want the racking. It does not effect cut quality from what I have observed but it makes it quite a bit more work pushing smoothly through the log.

Offline foamnone

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #21 on: January 11, 2019, 03:38:08 PM »
New miter saw blade and the small mag drill bits came in early (7/16-3/4). My plan is to tack the saw head together and then drill the holes using the half inch plate as spacers for the bearings (yoke side) and use 1/2 inch plate and 1/4 plate on the other end.

Looks like I am out of 'research' time and gotta start building.

Should I start a build thread?

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #22 on: January 11, 2019, 03:41:16 PM »
Nah nobody is interested in it.

ARE YOU KIDDING!?!?!?!?!? OF COURSE WE NEED A BUILD THREAD :)


Offline Kwill

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #23 on: January 11, 2019, 04:37:17 PM »
when you push on one side of the carriage that side will move, then after the frame twists enough the other side will move causing a racking / walking motion.

In ideal situations you do not want the racking. It does not effect cut quality from what I have observed but it makes it quite a bit more work pushing smoothly through the log.
I have a 2 post but never had that issue
Built my own hydraulic splitter
Built my own outdoor wood stove
Built my own log arch
In the process of building my sawmill

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #24 on: January 11, 2019, 05:50:35 PM »
how are they connected? that may be why. mine is just single 2x6x.188

Offline Kwill

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #25 on: January 11, 2019, 06:02:24 PM »
 

 here is a pic of it back when i was building it
Built my own hydraulic splitter
Built my own outdoor wood stove
Built my own log arch
In the process of building my sawmill

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #26 on: January 11, 2019, 06:26:56 PM »
The square must resist twisting more and the clearance on your slides. Could have also been buildup on the rails for me. I was cutting without my scrapers on to see if I really needed them. I do :)

Offline foamnone

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #27 on: January 11, 2019, 08:34:59 PM »
Thinking of adding a compression spring between the yoke and tensioner. Something that could give a little if needed

Offline charles mann

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #28 on: January 11, 2019, 09:01:41 PM »
when you run your tensiometer on the blade, how many psi do you have to have it at for proper tension? @Crusarius 

im not sure how much mine will be, being a 2" x .050" blade, 25' long, but i was thinking of adding a spring to my idea side as well, but not yet knowing how much psi its going to take to tighten my blade, i don't really know how heavy/strong of spring to get, and i was thinking of using a jack bolt for my tension, but the plans and the builder/seller of the plans used a port-a-power, and i think it was taking 3000psi to achieve the correct tension on his mill, and mine will be similar, just a bit longer of a blade.   
Temple, Tx
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #29 on: January 11, 2019, 09:35:02 PM »
I run 1500 to 2000 psi. but keep in mind that is just oil pressure not actual blade tension. I have a 1" cylinder with -4 JIC port fitting feeding it.

Offline foamnone

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #30 on: January 12, 2019, 08:44:17 PM »
I’m using 1/2 inch plate for pillow block riser on the 1/4 thick yoke to give me something to tap. Do I need to use 3/4 plate on the saw frame to get the bearing axils parallel?

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #31 on: January 12, 2019, 09:37:45 PM »
I used 1/4 on the yoke/adjustable side and 1/2 on the frame/fixed side

it does not have to be perfect your guides will set the final blade position.

Offline foamnone

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #32 on: January 13, 2019, 08:19:16 PM »
 

 

This is 3x3 1/4 over 2.5 tube. It fits perfect with very little slop. Might cause an issue when paint is added.

Offline bwstout

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #33 on: January 14, 2019, 07:45:07 AM »


  Tube 2.5 x 2.5 1/4

  That seems way to light for a saw frame.  Steve
The plans for the 36 inch saw call for 2x2 3/16. I have somewhere between 0 - no sawmill experience. i'm using the steel I had so I can spend in other areas ... hydraulics
Surplus City as some has mention and I did mill the ends and have a flange bearing on the bottom and pillow block at the top with a  wheel chair motor and I use an ATV wench controller with a momentary switch for the up and down just use sprockets to gear the speed. So for works good been using it for a couple of years now.
home built mill

Offline ktm250rider

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #34 on: January 14, 2019, 09:34:04 AM »
I used a 2" OD x 1" ID x 2.5" long yellow spring (414 lb/0.1in)  Ive never measured the blade tension.  I just compress the spring to a certain dimension and everything has been good. 
If you use a spring, make sure its captured some how.  In my design verification phase, mine was free to fly when the blade would fall off the pulleys. 

Offline Kwill

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #35 on: January 14, 2019, 07:57:50 PM »

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 

This is 3x3 1/4 over 2.5 tube. It fits perfect with very little slop. Might cause an issue when paint is added.
Did the 3 have a seam?
Built my own hydraulic splitter
Built my own outdoor wood stove
Built my own log arch
In the process of building my sawmill

Offline foamnone

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #36 on: January 15, 2019, 12:39:26 AM »
Think this is going to be a 'what not to do' thread.

Welded everything up to save time. Wanted to use the mag drill to knock out the bearing holes. Didnt have a 3/8 mag bit to tap a 1/2-13. Had to put a chuck and use multiple twist bits. Pretty much lost a day.  


Kwill Yes, the larger tube had a welding seam on the inside. 

I welded an old bastard file to the middle of a 3 ft 1x1 tube and was able to file until perfect fit. Took about 20 minutes per yoke piece.

Offline ktm250rider

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #37 on: January 15, 2019, 08:07:21 AM »
that's a nice fit.  Wish I would have done that with mine.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #38 on: January 15, 2019, 08:43:27 AM »
I am still contemplating linear bearings in that location.

Offline foamnone

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Re: Questions for a Linn Sawmill build
« Reply #39 on: January 15, 2019, 04:24:01 PM »
The adjustment yoke for the saw blade guide calls for 2x2 3/16 tube for the 1.5 tube to slid into. Kind of another yoke.

This feels like way too much movement. Seems like it will be an issue when extending and keeping parallel.

Don't have any 2x2. Here is a mock up of what I came up with. Used 3/8 flat stock around 1.5 by 1/4 tube

 





I used 2 Pepsi shims. Welded up 75% and it worked. Finished welding solid and it did not work.
Tomorrow will use 3 Dr. Pepper shims :)


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