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Author Topic: Modifying log loader arms on old Timber King?  (Read 382 times)

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Offline alan gage

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Modifying log loader arms on old Timber King?
« on: January 11, 2019, 09:35:35 AM »
I've got an old B-16 from the early 90's. There are times I'd like to saw with the loader arms in the 'up' position but because of their placement and shape they won't clear the carriage unless they're dropped about half way. Has anyone done any relatively simple modifications to address this?

Alan
Timberking B-16

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: Modifying log loader arms on old Timber King?
« Reply #1 on: January 11, 2019, 09:44:21 AM »
   I have not sawed with the B-16 but I know that sounds normal with my mill. In the fully raised position the head on my mill will hit the loading arms. I leave them part way up in case a log rolls back, which they sometimes will at the start, or to use to store flitches needing to be edged.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline doc henderson

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Re: Modifying log loader arms on old Timber King?
« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2019, 09:54:59 AM »
hey Alan, I am fortunate to have a newer hydraulic mill.  I had the main guard that covered the electric clutch that was bolted to the band wheel covers at the bottom.  It would lean in an rub on the nut that held the clutch, and burn the paint and through the decal.  They initially sent me a new guard, but the same thing happened.  I called about a year ago and they had started making a bracket to hold the top secure and keep it out.  took about and hour to fab up.  Got some good direction from timber king.  I also have left the loader part way up and at the lower deck height it will impact and stop the carriage.  If you have any "engineering" questions, the company will be very helpful, and they are now a sponsor of this forum.  Matt is who I call and he can answer many questions, if not will get to whomever can.  I have been to the company headquarters and it is like a family there.

Offline alan gage

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Re: Modifying log loader arms on old Timber King?
« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2019, 10:31:59 AM »
hey Alan, I am fortunate to have a newer hydraulic mill.  I had the main guard that covered the electric clutch that was bolted to the band wheel covers at the bottom.  It would lean in an rub on the nut that held the clutch, and burn the paint and through the decal......I also have left the loader part way up and at the lower deck height it will impact and stop the carriage. 
No clutch on mine other than the manual lever. It sounds like on yours the clutch is what interferes with the loader arms if they're left all the way up? Mine hits the actual carriage so it doesn't matter what the head height is set to.
Quote
In the fully raised position the head on my mill will hit the loading arms.
That's interesting. I've never seen a WM run in person but always assumed from the way I'd heard people talk that they were leaving the loader arms in the full 'up' position with no problem.
When storing heavier flitches/beams on the loader arms it would be nice to leave them completely up so I could just shuffle them back and forth on/off the mill bed without doing any heavy lifting or running the arms up and down. Or, as usually happens, running the arms up and then forgetting to put them back down.
Alan
Timberking B-16

Offline doc henderson

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Re: Modifying log loader arms on old Timber King?
« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2019, 10:43:39 AM »
sorry for the confusion.  The clutch and guard was an example of how they helped me.  It is the wheel cover on the right side that bumps into the log loader arm.  I can run with the loader arms part way up.  all the way up, hits the carriage. Half up in the safety position only hits at the lower positions.  There is a sweet spot that you can keep a log from rolling off and run the whole way on my mill.  If it is helpful, TK may have suggested modification advice, or they tell you why it is not recommended.  I have a b 2000 and it was based on all the modifications made to the b 20.  take care.

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: Modifying log loader arms on old Timber King?
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2019, 06:38:00 PM »
Alan,

   I typically keep my loader arms partly raised but low enough the flitches to be edged are still below the cutting height of the cant. The arms do not have to be lowered very far for the head to clear them but fully raised they will be in the way. I never heard or thought of leaving them all the way up. All notes I have read or seen from WM talks about partial lowering them before sawing so the log does not roll back off.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"


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