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Author Topic: anchorseal  (Read 1607 times)

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Offline doc henderson

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #20 on: February 08, 2019, 06:24:43 PM »
I am a hobbyist so I often miss opportunities like stopping a crack with the plastic ties.  If I can, I get it done same day, but once I park a log in a stack I tend to go to work and forget about it.  I tried pounding it into a log to see how it goes in.  It is technically fine but will have too make a point to try it in real time and circumstances and get back to you.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

Offline JohnW

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2019, 09:03:15 PM »
It's been mentioned on here before that Woodcraft stores sell Anchorseal, I think it was in gallon jugs.  I see that Louisville has it.  What's the probability that this would save money for any of you.

Offline Florida boy

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #22 on: February 08, 2019, 09:55:09 PM »
WR meadows 1300,  it was less than 90$ delivered for 5 gallons just had to search Google.  Wax emulsion based concrete sealer seems to work good on my logs so far.

Online Tom the Sawyer

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #23 on: February 08, 2019, 10:10:41 PM »
JohnW,  Woodcraft does sell it in quarts and gallons. On-line price is $33.50 per gallon, plus shipping.  Price drops significantly in larger quantities.  If you only need a gallon, its worth it.  If you go through a lot of it, look for at least 5 gallon pails.
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Offline charles mann

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #24 on: February 08, 2019, 11:20:22 PM »
@Tom the Sawyer does woodcraft sell it in 5 gal jugs? i just went to their site, and didn't see it. even did a search for it and only 1 gal and 1 qt, on their site. 
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Online Tom the Sawyer

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #25 on: February 09, 2019, 12:13:20 AM »
No, Woodcraft only sells quarts and gallons.  I think that is all that most of UC Coatings' dealers carry.  5 gallon pails are about $18.50 per gallon + shipping from New Jersey.  I think it is significantly less than that if you can buy a 55 gallon drum, or a 275 gallon tote.  

You might check woodworking or woodturning clubs in your area.  Some of them buy in bulk and resell to members.  Of course, if you knew someone driving through Jersey...
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Offline charles mann

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #26 on: February 09, 2019, 12:57:32 AM »
No, Woodcraft only sells quarts and gallons.  I think that is all that most of UC Coatings' dealers carry.  5 gallon pails are about $18.50 per gallon + shipping from New Jersey.  I think it is significantly less than that if you can buy a 55 gallon drum, or a 275 gallon tote.  

You might check woodworking or woodturning clubs in your area.  Some of them buy in bulk and resell to members.  Of course, if you knew someone driving through Jersey...
i had 2 soldiers that live/ed in jersey, 1 was a city slicker, the other, a country bumpkin. but don't know anyone driving through there. i will hit my step dad up and see if he makes flat bed runs up there. i have seen others commenting, complaining the price for it has gone up, or shipping has gone up, 1 or both. amazon sells it, and when was looking at using it, they were more expensive, even with shipping from jersey. but now it may be cheaper that from the manufacturer. idk. iv been using bees wax and linseed oil. it gives the walnut and pecan a BEAUTIFUL coloring on the end cuts. but some have have mentioned to shy away from the oil, as customers might not want the oil in their slabs. so its been plain ole' wax for the last few pecans. 
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Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #27 on: February 10, 2019, 08:17:49 PM »
One desirable characteristic of an end coating is that it does not carry over and cause problems in subsequent processing of the lumber into furniture, cabinets, etc.   A wax, for example, that does not  evaporate, causes severe finishing issues.  

So, this means that the coating must be very hard so it can be cut off, or it must evaporate around 130 F.  Anchorseal evaporates.  Some waxes may carry over. Roofing tar hardens.
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Offline xlogger

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #28 on: February 12, 2019, 05:08:27 AM »
Shipping was the killer, last time I paid $34 bucks for a $93 bucket, December 27.  That seemed extremely high considering shipping used to be free, considering I purchase several 5 gallon buckets at the same time.

I use the pump up backpack sprayer sold by anchor seal and there is no cleanup.  I love it.  Every now and them I remove the tip and blow it out with an air compressor.  Thats the great thing about Anchorseal, spray it and stick the sprayer under the workbench until the next time.  

Some of the other sealers will actually dry or cure, and cleanup can be a major headache and time consumer.  
Robert, I have a couple of those back pack sprayers for around my place here. Are they the same ones like you get at Lowes or HD? Any different nozzle?
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #29 on: February 12, 2019, 10:35:49 AM »
I dont know, probably.  I didnt like how fast the and clumpy the UC backbpack sprayer just belched out the Anchorseal, like a hose, it was like they wanted it to spray fast so I would have to order more!  So I went to Tractor Supply and bought a smaller orifice brass round spray tip and screwed it on.  Then I cut the Anchorseal by 10% maybe 20%, make it more like the consistency of latex paint, so the smaller tip would atomize better.  

Works great now.  Very fast and much better than anything else weve tried, including our power sprayer.  What used to take a significant time, gets done quick, we maybe sprayed 5-6 MBF of lumber packs Saturday, and my helper was spraying it as fast as I could forklift it to the air drying pad.  By the time I got back with the forklift, the next pallet was sprayed.  Also, since its a spray, I dont spray logs anymore, I mill the logs raw ended, put the best section in the pallet, and then pack saw the waste ends off.  Then we simply spray the ends of the palletized lumber.  

I never clean the sprayer, havent cleaned it since we bought it, however, every now and then the outside of the spray tip gets clogged so before each session when I walk by the air compressor, I use the blow gun and blow any residue off the tip.


https://uccoatings.com/videos/

You can see from the video of the backpack sprayer, the stream is a little too narrow and heavy.  So spraying the product isnt the issue, its slowing it down and getting a better, wider fan pattern.  
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Offline doc henderson

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #30 on: February 12, 2019, 01:10:43 PM »
the home owner sprayer I bough at Lowes just spit a stream no matter what pressure or nozzle adjustment.  i bought online a fan type nozzle and it did not help.  i did not try to thin it.  did you just use water?  I got the HF 150 dollar airless and it works great.  a roller tended to waste a bit as well, I know it needs to go on thick or multi coats.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

Offline Brad_bb

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #31 on: February 12, 2019, 01:38:04 PM »
Ok, I'm going to say my peace once with regards to the cost of Anchorseal.  ;D As far as I know, there isn't another product that works as well as Anchorseal.  

If Anchorseal is $95 for 5 gallons plus shipping....Let's call it $130.  
If a 5 gallon pail will do 100 average logs. (Which is likely from my experience if not more)
If an average log has 100 board feet.

Then, $130/100 logs= $1.30/log.
Then, $1.30/100 BF =  $.013/BF

If you sell lumber at $2/BF, a 1.3 cent per board foot expense is almost negligible.  
If your wood sells for $2/BF and the Anchorseal saves 1 BF per log.  It's made you $.70 you wouldn't have made without it.  So do you see my point here?  All it has to do is save you at least one BF per log to pay for itself.  Actually if you want to be technical it only has to save you one board foot every 1.54 logs to pay for itself.

So why would one look for a cheaper alternative that may not work as well?  What if the Anchorseal saves 5 BF per log?  I think the saying is pennywise and pound foolish?

I do see why this is an issue for people who do NOT sell wood.  If you're just cutting as a hobby and not making any money, then it seems like $130 for 5 gallon Anchorseal is a big expense.  Am I wrong or crazy or both?  Those who know me on here, know I try to stimulate good discussion, I'm not angry, I do not take offense easily at all, nor do I intend to offend.  I just speak plainly and what I'm thinking.  So know that I will not be offended by any response even if you tell me I'm wrong.  I hope I did my math right!;D
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Offline wisconsitom

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #32 on: February 12, 2019, 02:28:34 PM »
I see reference to coating log ends being beneficial in some species and perhaps less so in others.  Question:  Is this due to the "other species" not checking/cracking, whether end-sealed or not....or is this more to do with perceived log value, ie. that nice piece of cherry is worth more than equivalent stick of pine?

I expect the first major species I will be sawing in any kind of volume will be larch.  That is, of course, a pine-family member.  Would it be recommended that one coat larch log ends?  In that scenario, I would be making decking boards, bevel siding, and perhaps interior paneling.

thanks,
tom

Offline doc henderson

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #33 on: February 12, 2019, 03:10:21 PM »
I have used it and it does help, esp. logs in a pile that I have not cut yet, waiting on a project.  i am no expert, but I believe it is best for hardwoods, and more important in some species due to tendency to degrade.  i will again invoke the spirit of @GeneWengert-WoodDoc to correct me if i am wrong.  Brad, i don't know you personally yet, but enjoy your comments.  i don't think you are angry or wrong, just crazy!!!   lol.  That is a complement coming from me.  i get some logs that are already badly cracked on side and ends and i don't bother coating them and they will be used for rustic stuff.
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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #34 on: February 12, 2019, 04:14:35 PM »
Anchorseal makes a big difference on some species of hardwood, to the point I wouldnt saw lumber without having some to immediately coat the ends.  Been there, done that.  Oaks, walnut, cherry, sassafras, hickory, will degrade significantly without it.  Pine, its not very prone.  Cedar, not so much.  Walnut, put two coats on.  Poplar in the winter, nope, Poplar in the summer, better hose it on.  We mill and sell about 20 different species of hardwood plus pine and cedar, and I am lucky in that I see the results of my mistakes quickly.  Just like in the old West where cowboys fed their horses before themselves, applying Anchorseal is about the same.  Buck the log, cut the board, put on a coat of the stuff before anything else happens.  Even a day delay will make a difference.  

Referring to degrade and loss of value, if a 96 inch board cracks 2 to 3 inches per end without it, and virtually no cracks with it, then the difference could well be 6 inches of saved wood per board, which is about 6% savings, when considering a high value species such as walnut, which we sell at $8.50 per bdft foot.  So there is a significant savings. Thats why we use it.  

However, like all input costs on my sawmill operation, I am always looking at other alternatives, especially when one of my input items jumps price overnight, and its a critical item to my operation. Even though its a relatively small cost, for me about $250 per month, some months less, some much higher, depending on whats coming off the mill and the season.  Ive gone through 5 gallons a day, and sometimes had 5 gallons last me a couple weeks.  For me, a 30% price increases on that one cost will trigger my gag reflex, and I start doing my homework and start searching for alternatives.  $300 a month was the trigger point when I started sharpening bands in-house.  Doesnt mean I will find a better substitute, but if I dont start looking, I will never know.  In this case, the simple alternative may be simply to purchase bulk.  Probabaly is. It may also be there is a better product.  Ive found a lot of good alternatives to existing status quo items by asking.

I have tried both a Graco high pressure wand sprayer, as well as the smaller Graco hand sprayer and I dislike having to clean them.  I leaned a painful lesson by not cleaning my big Graco and the pressure bypass check valve got ruined.  Lesson learned.  A pump up sprayer for me, falls into simpler, better, works good enough and is one less thing for me to worry about.

To the point of usefulness, Anchorseal does have the advantage of evaporating in the kiln, which also saves me from having to end trim boards.  

The best end sealer Ive used was when I accidentally dropped the end of a board in cow poop.  I dont know if it stopped the cracking, but nobody ever wanted to look at the end, even though it was a pretty green.  

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Offline Southside

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #35 on: February 12, 2019, 04:23:27 PM »
Hammer - what was old #7 doing in the mill shed anyway?  :D
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Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #36 on: February 12, 2019, 05:40:30 PM »
I did research with Anchorseal on sugar maple logs and red oak logs.  It virtually eliminated all drying checks during 3 months of summertime log storage.  It did not control stress splits, which are those that are over 1/2 wide at the end.

The plastic log end split control devices from UC Coating does a good job on preventing most stress related splits in large timbers if applied ASAP.  They are especially useful and effective for ties, as large splits can disqualify a timber from being a tie, with a big loss of value.

When spraying Anchorseal, it is very easy to put on too little coating, especially on the edges.
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Offline Stephen1

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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #37 on: February 12, 2019, 07:12:06 PM »
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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #38 on: February 12, 2019, 07:57:24 PM »
Sounds plusable.  New management and a revision of pricing. 
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Re: anchorseal
« Reply #39 on: February 13, 2019, 08:49:00 AM »
Thanks fellows.  I should have said that, even though a  pine-family member, larch wood is much more dense than any pine.  It is actually  a very hard "softwood" and useful for a wide array of items.  Just never got a grade stamp.  But not all that much like "pine wood".

tom


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