Author Topic: Router sled for surfacing slabs (Read 4464 times)

Crusarius · « **on:** February 06, 2019, 01:04:25 PM »

Lets see what you got.

I made one out of minitec extruded aluminum I scored from the scrap bin at work. It worked ok but the amount of friction was to much for my liking. Great thing about it is how forgiving the alumiunm is when you hit it with your brand new carbide router bit

I am now wondering if buying a 1200mm linear bearing and using that for the bottom rails would work well. Could still use the minitec for the cross pieces.

Part of the reason I ask this is because I am contemplating trying the linear bearing on my mill mast. If it does not work the way I want it to there I would like to be able to use it elsewhere.

My setup was a quick and dirty one trying to make slabs for my wife's Christmas present creations.

Here is the router sled I slapped together.

This section is a closeup of the board with cleaned up and untouched areas.

Here is the complete slab I was finishing. If you look closely you can see what a 2" carbide router bit does to aluminum when you slip

DWyatt · « **Reply #1 on:** February 06, 2019, 04:01:40 PM »

I just talked to dad about us building one of these out of that 80/20 material. The stuff is kind of pricey buy I like the idea of it being cut right, and square when you get it. I'll be interested what other people come up with.

Crusarius · « **Reply #2 on:** February 06, 2019, 04:07:47 PM »

the 80/20 worked great. If I took a little more time and came up with some better bearing materials it would probably work just fine. currently the plan may be to stick with it if the linear bearing works on my mast. Otherwise it will become really smooth router sled.

Ianab · « **Reply #3 on:** February 06, 2019, 04:55:45 PM »

I cheated and just mounted my big router on an old Peterson sawmill frame.

Crusarius · « **Reply #4 on:** February 06, 2019, 06:00:11 PM »

Thats nice. I keep thinking about putting it on my mill bed to.

I see you do lengthwise to. I watched so many videos of ppl going across the grain instead of with it. I liked going with it alot better.

doc henderson · « **Reply #5 on:** February 06, 2019, 07:35:12 PM »

Made mine with scraps, 5 mm plywood bottom, 3/8th plywood side that traps (fences) the router in between, 2x4 frame on sides.

Crusarius · « **Reply #6 on:** February 06, 2019, 08:08:57 PM »

Thanks for the pics doc. that looks sweet. I keep wondering about making it height adjustable. the last piece I was surfacing started out tall enough it worked but I ran out of cutter depth before I was at the desired thickness. I had to reshim under the board to bring it up high enough to finish it.

If I had height adjustable life would have been much easier.

doc henderson · « **Reply #7 on:** February 06, 2019, 10:22:48 PM »

i had the stump on a pallet, took 5 minutes to drop the 2 x 4s to a lower level. only took about 1/4 inch at a time, and tried to keep less than half the bit in the wood

charles mann · « **Reply #8 on:** February 07, 2019, 12:02:57 AM »

when eventually get to that point, I'm going to use my sawmill rails for fore/aft movement, and get some extrusion for the frame and cross slide, with some aluminum plating for the router base and sq tubing for horizontal movement. i figure why build some other rail sys, when the mill rails and frame are already built and cut the same slabs i will be flattening. kinda like ianab did.

ESFted · « **Reply #9 on:** February 07, 2019, 12:07:49 AM »

Here's mine using 80/20 and some skate wheels.
Router Planer Sled in General Woodworking

kelLOGg · « **Reply #10 on:** February 07, 2019, 06:16:54 AM »

Quote from: charles mann on February 07, 2019, 12:02:57 AM

when eventually get to that point, I'm going to use my sawmill rails for fore/aft movement, and get some extrusion for the frame and cross slide, with some aluminum plating for the router base and sq tubing for horizontal movement. i figure why build some other rail sys, when the mill rails and frame are already built and cut the same slabs i will be flattening. kinda like ianab did.

I have considered doing that with my mill but I don't have a compelling need for it, although it would be fun to do and nice to have.
Bob

Bruno of NH · « **Reply #11 on:** February 07, 2019, 07:03:15 AM »

I would like a carriage built for my to flatten slabs

Crusarius · « **Reply #12 on:** February 07, 2019, 07:21:05 AM »

My dilemma with making one exclusively for the mill bed is the problem with my mill being portable and not setup in a building or under cover. May not even be near electric. Usually wood working is a rainy day or winter project.

But if you made one for the mill and had a set of rails you could just bolt to the table its a win win.

Crusarius · « **Reply #13 on:** February 07, 2019, 07:25:57 AM »

Quote from: ESFted on February 07, 2019, 12:07:49 AM

Here's mine using 80/20 and some skate wheels.
Router Planer Sled in General Woodworking

Perfect. I like the wheel idea you did. thats a great idea.

Crusarius · « **Reply #14 on:** February 07, 2019, 07:27:23 AM »

So here is a question for everyone who has used a router sled to surface boards.

Why is it I always see ppl routing across the narrow part of the board, usually across the grain? I found with my setup running with the grain produced better results and was quite a bit easier and faster.

doc henderson · « **Reply #15 on:** February 07, 2019, 08:17:24 AM »

I would say it is because you need a well engineered sled to go across, and it is easier to make long solid rails, as your actual sled may sag in the middle if the span is long. All about materials and engineering. I made mine in less than an hour and that seemed to be the easy design. Lots of great other ideas on this thread. If I did lots, I would consider a more industrial design. I also made a sled that could suspend a chunk of wood like a lathe, and rotate it slowly to carve it down with a router prior to putting it on a lathe. It uses the same sled part.

mike_belben · « **Reply #16 on:** February 07, 2019, 08:41:41 AM »

1" round linear bearings on new 1" ground shafting will slide like its on ice. The shafting is hot roll mild steel with a ground and oiled finish and is used for sheave shafts and so forth. Industrial distributors like grainger or maybe MSC should sell it by the 8ft length in a waxed paper tube. Itll look chromed but is just ground. Perhaps some of the better metal retailers too, such as yarde metals or speedy metals.

Ebay chinesium linear bearings should be about $15ea

Crusarius · « **Reply #17 on:** February 07, 2019, 08:58:01 AM »

I actually just ordered a set of 20mm x 1500mm linear bearings yesterday off ebay cost $83. Free shipping. That is going to get used on the mill. If it doesn't work there it will become my router sled.

I also ordered 6 cam followers for V2.0 sawmill playing.

Maybe the cam followers will work for router sled. I have wondered about just a nice flat table and rollers under the cross sled.

doc henderson · « **Reply #18 on:** February 07, 2019, 09:03:07 AM »

I do not mind the little bit of friction as I push the router by hand. gives some control so router does not run away or go too fast. I think if the router is well secured to the frame, then less friction would be nice

Crusarius · « **Reply #19 on:** February 07, 2019, 10:12:31 AM »

I do keep wondering if I should be making a full on cnc bed with lead screws and all. Then I can just program the size and let it go

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Author Topic: Router sled for surfacing slabs (Read 4464 times)

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