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Author Topic: Birds nest  (Read 3800 times)

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Online Jeff

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Birds nest
« on: February 21, 2019, 03:52:51 PM »
Thats all I know what to call it.  Here is my before picture.  I may need some input from some of you electrical minded guys.  I plan on relocating most everything and straightening out this mess.

The mustang has an electric furl pump, electric water pump, electric fan and MSD ignition a bit old stereo and  apparently no forethought on wire routing.  Everything seems to be protected ok, but the fuel pump is wired hot to a toggle that is also the feed for the water pump. You have to switch the toggle to kill the fuel. I have a new relay here that has a tach switch. Once wired, you get 3 seconds of feed to pressure the fuel pump when energized, then it quits and does not pump until you start the car. It is powered as long as there is tach signal. Engine dies, pump dies.



 
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2019, 04:29:29 PM »
On any rewiring job, first decide where you want your wire loom to be.  After that it's one wire at the time and when you are satisfied with it, then move on to the next wire.  That way you are never concerned with the bird's nest because when you reroute the last wire, it will be gone.
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Online Jeff

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2019, 04:33:59 PM »
I'm going to relocate the MSD box to begin with. I need to do something about the way things are fused as well. Lots of messy inline fuses. The mustangs stock fuse box is pretty basic. They have power to these add ons with just wires stuck in under fuses.
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Offline AZ_builder

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2019, 04:57:00 PM »
Scavenge a small fuse box from the scrap yard or order one from painless. Then youll have a dedicated power bus to run off of. Electrical is better if its ground switched (if possible) like stated previously, wire loom is a clean look.

Online Jeff

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2019, 05:02:49 PM »
I have a continuous use solenoid here that I am planning to wire into the system. I will use that to turn on a small fuse box that runs the signal switches to the relays for the pumps and fans. That was I only need one wire running into the main fuse box to a keyed circuit. I've also got two breakers I am going to put in. a 100 amp for that solenoid, and replace the 50 amp fuse for the stereo with a 50 amp breaker.

part of my collection:


 
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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2019, 09:56:18 PM »
Looks like you know what your working with. 

Offline yukon cornelius

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2019, 01:11:53 PM »
That is going to clean up that mess. I like the tach switch. My concern with electric fuel pump swaps has always been the hazard in a worst case scenario such as an accident or fire.
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2019, 02:27:51 PM »
Do you guys think it will be a problem to do the following.  My plan is to use the continuous duty solenoid to add key on accessory power to the fan, water pump, fuelpump and MDS.   THis being a ford, it had a for starter solenoid. That has power from the battery to one side, plus the alternator feed the other side goes to the starter. The smaller poles, one energizes with the key, and the other, it the start engage side.

What I want to do, is jump from that solenoid's key on post to the key on post on the new solenoid to activate that when I turn on the key. This way I do not have to run another wire from somewhere inside the car. I know it works, as I  used three jumper wires and a test light to activate and test it laying on the fender. It clicks on and off okay.  I'm just wondering if that wire is going to be compromised with additionally current draw.

I plan on running a 2ga wire from the battery to the starter solenoid to replace the ragged 4ga that it has now, then jump from the starter solenoid to a 100amp breaker, then onto the hot side of the new continuous duty solenoid using a 4ga wire.
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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #8 on: February 22, 2019, 02:37:49 PM »
that should work if my brain drew and under stood your described wire diagram.  i think you could mock it up and check wires for heat and check current draw.  is the reason for the second solenoid to isolate accessories or replace the ford solenoid?  Sounds like the former.  you are talking about the low current "signal" wires correct.  You could also go to the new cont. duty solenoid first and run a wire to the ford solenoid from the high current hot side.  but if that solenoid failed, you could not start you car.  you could also have a secret toggle inside the car that stops current to the starter solenoid to avoid theft, but that would add more wire.  does the new solenoid have a low side rated amp/current?  could also install a fuse or breaker sized to the wire to protect the system.  went back and looked at your pics, it appears you are doing this right!!
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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2019, 04:51:41 PM »
I would run your bigger wire to a buss then wire off that to the solenoid and individually fuse the rest of the components off the buss. Less heat and resistance on your solenoid wire.

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #10 on: February 23, 2019, 11:48:11 AM »
Jeff,
One of the best things I discovered is the Del City weather tight connectors.  I love them.  Solder and heat shrink all at once with a heat gun.  They've got all kinds of great auto electrical products.  


Del City - Electrical Supplies & Professional Grade Wiring Products
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #11 on: February 23, 2019, 06:45:03 PM »
Ill definitly be checking those out. @Brad_bb what do you use for your heat source?
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Offline Don_Papenburg

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #12 on: February 23, 2019, 07:00:34 PM »
Just hoping that the 50amp to the stereo was 5amp  ,or that is one booming stereo.
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Online Jeff

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #13 on: February 23, 2019, 10:37:29 PM »
No, its 50 amp. 1200 watt.
Just call me the midget doctor.
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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #14 on: February 24, 2019, 02:37:09 AM »
Ill definitly be checking those out. @Brad_bb what do you use for your heat source?
I use the $50 heat gun they sell.  I have use a small torch before, but I think the heat gun is more controllable so as not to overheat and melt the heat shrink portion.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #15 on: February 24, 2019, 07:10:45 AM »
It looks like those solder connections are listed as obsolete on their website.
Just call me the midget doctor.
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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #16 on: February 24, 2019, 07:26:13 AM »
They have the "double wall"  heat shrink tubes that have the weatherproof adhesive.  can solder first and then slide over.  Not as neat as what Brad suggested.  I think they have the crimp and heat shrink, but I always like to tin wires and solder connections.  I am sure it will be neat as a pin when you are done.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #17 on: February 24, 2019, 08:06:37 AM »
During my professional life as a telephone company cable splicer, I made literally hundreds of thousands of wire splices.  I would be reluctant to use the heat gun solder splices.  I watched the video and see no way for you to actually know what the quality of the splice is. 

I agree with doc above about tinning, crimping, soldering, and heat shrinking.
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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #18 on: February 24, 2019, 08:36:25 AM »
All of our splices at work and crimp connectors with built in heat shrink, especially airbag stuff.

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Re: Birds nest
« Reply #19 on: February 24, 2019, 09:15:06 AM »
Listen to da magic man, he knows his onions (and grits)
Notice how grits creep into a lot of threads.
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