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Author Topic: To Mill and Grade or Buy, That is the question..  (Read 1487 times)

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Offline hacknchop

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Re: To Mill and Grade or Buy, That is the question..
« Reply #20 on: May 10, 2019, 10:14:13 PM »
Where we are if you need a building permit you have to use graded lumber and it's unfortunate because other than the odd undersized lumber there's rarely a problem. 
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Online Don P

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Re: To Mill and Grade or Buy, That is the question..
« Reply #21 on: May 10, 2019, 10:59:20 PM »
It sounds like a similar class, we are operating out of the same grading manual and I know your grading agencies operate the same as ours, at least this side of the border. It sounds like there is better provision for small time operators within your borders, which, if you go back to the enabling legislation of our grading laws that was the intent here, insert rant :D. Our grading requirement for structural lumber has been written in building law for a very long time. The main difference between me and Magicman is I live in that county. In the next county over I cleared a lot, told the inspector that I planned on having the timbers sawn for use in the house, "what do I need to do?" "Well I guess you need to build it". Enforcement varies considerably from one jurisdiction to the next but the trend is tightening. I can see both sides, when I rehab older homes well, they don't build them like they used to, we have laws against that now.

I don't care for rough sawn framing, what I'm harvesting and sawing currently is one of those situations where time is not the main concern, time is gratis and trees are available, the grading is taken care of. We can donate labor to help someone rebuild but cash isn't there so the equation changes. Each situation needs to be weighed on its own. What I prefer to do and we're doing it here is saw, borate, dry, plane, straight line. That equation generally favors store bought dimensional framing and if I'm going to that kind of effort making wood it is usually for finish material.

I don't know if y'all have noticed, it started with eurowood but is becoming more common, the eased edge on store bought is often 1/4" radius now, you'll feel it, look at the stamp it'll usually have a line "1/4EE" ...  1/4" Eased Edge. I kind of despise it myself, it makes it harder to line things up over that sized gap between members. It does mask more wane ;), which can change grade upward on a stick here and there, it adds up over many pieces.
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Online Magicman

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Re: To Mill and Grade or Buy, That is the question..
« Reply #22 on: May 11, 2019, 08:22:23 AM »
Not the first stick of graded framing lumber here.

>

Sawed.



Stickered.


 
Foundation complete.


 
Ready to be dried in. 



Rear roof on.


 
Front roof on.  All "rough sawn" ungraded.

The only thing that the county was interested in was measuring it so that they could increase my taxes.
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Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline btulloh

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Re: To Mill and Grade or Buy, That is the question..
« Reply #23 on: May 11, 2019, 08:26:36 AM »
Some counties don't require graded lumber, but none of them miss a chance to increase your property taxes.

Offline gwisejr

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Re: To Mill and Grade or Buy, That is the question..
« Reply #24 on: May 11, 2019, 01:35:48 PM »
I appreciate everyone's comments. Sounds to me like I just need to saw the fence boards and other non-structural lumber. I like the idea of sawing extra and selling it. Are there any suggestions of what sells easily in my area? I see some posts for green and air dryed 1x lumber in craigslist with prices between $8-$9 for 1x6x16 boards.

Thanks.

Offline WranglerSS

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Re: To Mill and Grade or Buy, That is the question..
« Reply #25 on: May 12, 2019, 05:31:54 PM »
I too live in Ball Ground and recently built a 36' x 48' barn on my property using lumber I milled on my Woodmizer. I had to have a structural engineer sign off on my building since there was no architectural documentation on my design and he also signed off on the grading of the lumber as opposed to having to hire a grader to inspect and stamp which is acceptable to Cherokee County. 

A couple of observations from your post is since you are planning on building a dwelling you will need to have the lumber sterilized so you don't have critters in you home. This will add to the cost of the lumber to a point where it may be better to buy. Another is I hope you have more logs than the picture. It takes more than you think. I used approximately 120 logs between 12" and 28" in diameter and 13' long. My barn is built with 2x6x12 walls with 2x4 purlins and 1x8 B&B siding. I bought the engineered trusses.

 

  
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Offline azmtnman

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Re: To Mill and Grade or Buy, That is the question..
« Reply #26 on: May 14, 2019, 10:54:22 AM »
I wish our system worked that way. I trained for one week at a grading agency's facility and got a certificate of completion. After that you or the mill you work for applies for your grading ticket with the auditing agency. The mill whether one I'm working for or my own if it is stationary and I pay the monthly extortion fee is then audited periodically with surprise inspections. If you are a new grader he is going to be pulling your piles and giving you on the job training, he'll pick on you special for awhile. If a mill grader fails the pop inspection several times he'll pull your ticket. There is no such thing as a freelance unattached grader in the US. If I call for transient grading here it will be that "check grader" from the agency who shows up. My partner in training was becoming one of those guys. You can check all that on the ALSC website, the overseeing body of all the grading agencies. I'm on the email list for their minutes when the board there meets quarterly, updates to design values, new species combinations, agency changes/mergers, etc. Might be worth it if it's of interest how ours works.
This is what happens when "good citizens" roll over and play dead.
I'll bet if you dig (you don't have to--just follow the money), you'll find this is controlled by the big mills in cooperation with the unions. It's a win-win for them--YOU HAVE TO BUY THEIR PRODUCT or pay your dues one way or another! >>>>8>
There's also no provision for otherwise (like using say 150-200% sizes.) It's a tax on people of lesser means that could otherwise do for themselves.
If this was really a "safety" issue like they portray it, we'd be tearing down any building built before and replacing it. But amazingly enough, those buildings are still standing and probably will be long after the new construction is falling down. What did we ever do before we had government and concerned businesses to look out for us?
This makes me furious! It's unAmerican.
1983 LT 30, 1954 Ford NAA, 2006 Polaris 500 EFI, '03 Dodge D2500 Cummins powered 4X4 long-bed crew cab, Cummins powered '88 Chevy R30, Stihl MS250, MS311 and MS661--I cut trees for my boss who was a Jewish carpenter!

Online Magicman

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Re: To Mill and Grade or Buy, That is the question..
« Reply #27 on: May 14, 2019, 02:30:31 PM »
None have ever called back and I have never sawn anything in that county. Nothing. I have sawn in every county surrounding that county. ::)

Well, wonders never cease.  It won't be framing lumber but I will be sawing in that county Friday.  thumbs-up
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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