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Author Topic: log arch build  (Read 3284 times)

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Offline Crusarius

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #40 on: May 23, 2019, 03:05:27 PM »
Will help but will still twist and with those plates you will get cracking along the welds.

Plus that looks like an awful lot of places for crap to collect and cause rust.

Offline doc henderson

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #41 on: May 23, 2019, 03:21:25 PM »
I did this at key points on my log spliter.  8 x 8x 1/2 inch H beam.  back beside the wedge ect.  Mine are symmetrical.  your tongue is long enough that there can be huge forces.  no prob. as long as it is free rolling and the log is near balanced.  i.e. not forward and putting a lot of wt. on the tongue.  the problem with that (your pic) potentially is it locates the damage between the braces.  you could put triangles along the sides as well either solid with points down or rod like a radio tower.  solid along the edge with be the easiest and strongest in my opinion.  in a sudden situation under load, the physics involved will find the weakest link in your system.  so even if you are on flat ground, but rolling through the trees and catch a tire on a standing tree the torques the arch and tongue, this is what you are trying to prevent.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline Revival Sawmill

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #42 on: May 27, 2019, 03:02:18 PM »
Boxed in those sections of ibeam - much stiffer!  Used 3/16x4 bar - more difficult to weld than I was expecting, but it's on there, and not going anywhere.  Painted the back and inside of beam before I welded them on, and left the ends open, so hopefully that cuts down on the rot some. 




 


 

Offline Revival Sawmill

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #43 on: May 27, 2019, 03:35:24 PM »
Got going on the spindles - tried clamping to start with:



 

Wrapped the bearing surfaces to keep weld spatter and paint off:



 

There was daylight between the spindles and pads, so clamping/and the previous post about clamping the angle iron to the pads and welding that way to avoid tacking the spindles to the angle wouldn't work.



 

Spindles tacked to the angle, triangulated to the tongue, and angle tacked to the pads:



 

Let that cool, and tacked the spindles directly to the pads:



 

zipped the tacks, knocked the angle iron off, put many more tacks between both sides of the spindles and the pads, and ran a bead (let it cool between each step): 



 

Boxed in the spindles to give a bit more strength:



 

Got them both boxed, turned the thing sideways with the tractor to fix that hitch mount (so the mig gun would reach that end), and sure as heck, the power went out.  I went ahead and hosed what I could with Ospho, and sprayed the spindle cylinders / boxing/ pads with primer.  I'll paint what I can reach, fix that hitch mount, paint that, put the tires on, flip it upright, add some chain hooks, paint the top, and start using it! 8)



 

Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #44 on: May 27, 2019, 03:45:16 PM »
There was daylight between the spindles and pads, so clamping/and the previous post about clamping the angle iron to the pads and welding that way to avoid tacking the spindles to the angle wouldn't work.
 

Well, you got-r-dun so that's the important part!  My thought was to clamp the angle so a flat side was against the pads and the other flat against the spindle.  Then clamp the spindle tight to the pad.  But, what you did worked and I like the additional boxing of the spindles!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/32" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Offline doc henderson

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #45 on: May 27, 2019, 04:03:39 PM »
they make a rust converter, inhibitor, so maybe after welding you could flood/atomize  the back sides of your boxing if you are worried.  If not it might rust out in 50 years lol
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #46 on: May 27, 2019, 09:43:27 PM »
Looks good. Now can you move it into position by hand? Or is it to heavy to move by hand?

I finally used a tow dolly I scored a long time ago to go retrieve a log tonight. Worked pretty good.

Offline Revival Sawmill

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #47 on: May 29, 2019, 03:25:58 PM »
Looks good. Now can you move it into position by hand? Or is it to heavy to move by hand?

I finally used a tow dolly I scored a long time ago to go retrieve a log tonight. Worked pretty good.
Way too heavy to move around by hand!  I can lift the tongue, but have no desire to try moving it.  I'm figuring the steel weighs right around 600#.  I'll hook it to the tractor in the next couple of days and give it a test-run

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #48 on: May 29, 2019, 03:46:26 PM »
I'm sure everyone has seen enough of this thing, but I'll keep posting updates until I get it done.

fixed the hitch attachment



 

Got some paint on the bottom of everything, using the little air-compressor and an HVLP gun.  That turned a 30 minute job into a three hour struggle!  I'm going to have to brush paint the rest of it, or rig up a way to get more air to it.



 




 




 




 

Greased the bearings and got the hubs and tires mounted. 



 




 



 
(don't worry - I put the little caps over these)




 

The backs of the bearings had these odd grease-retainer things (below) they can't be on there correctly- not completely inside the hub recess, but not riding on the back of the hub either.  They kept squishing out of the hubs while I turned the tires.  It seems like they would melt with the friction of the hub rotating around them at any kind of speed?



 

Managed to flip it over with the tractor this morning, no injuries or damage! 8)




 

I'll have to do a bit more welding here and there, and finish the paint, then it's time to try using it!

Offline Crusarius

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #49 on: May 29, 2019, 05:07:20 PM »
What size tires?

Offline luap

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #50 on: May 29, 2019, 05:14:02 PM »
The hub assembly should have the inner bearing placed in the hub then, the seal pressed in the recess with the lip facing out. Then the hub assembly slid on the shaft, outer bearing installed, washer, then castle nut. The seals are typically sized to be a press fit in the hub.

Offline Revival Sawmill

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #51 on: May 30, 2019, 11:12:22 AM »

Offline Revival Sawmill

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #52 on: May 30, 2019, 11:14:26 AM »
The hub assembly should have the inner bearing placed in the hub then, the seal pressed in the recess with the lip facing out. Then the hub assembly slid on the shaft, outer bearing installed, washer, then castle nut. The seals are typically sized to be a press fit in the hub.
huh. That would have been easier!  These seals are definitely not a press fit in the hub.  It took a bit of work to get them slid onto the spindles, and they'd be loose in the hub.  There's also a pair of metal spring things running around the circumference of the seals on the inside of the lip - I'm guessing those need to be towards the grease, and not towards the dust/water/abuse?
Thanks,

Offline Crusarius

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #53 on: May 30, 2019, 11:40:04 AM »
Put them in tight and let them self clearance.

Offline luap

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #54 on: May 30, 2019, 06:37:08 PM »
It is surprising that the seal is loose. Yes The spring that encircles the inner lip goes to the grease side. For maximum life of the bearings, it would be worth the effort to get the correct seals. Take the hub  to an auto parts and they should be able to order the correct seal. They will need the od of the recess of the hub and the diameter of the spindle where the seal rides. Bring your existing seal and they may be able to measure the od and see where the discrepancy is.

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #55 on: May 31, 2019, 07:13:32 AM »
I wonder if that is an actual seal? or is it a splash guard? 

Offline Revival Sawmill

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #56 on: June 03, 2019, 10:29:32 AM »
Made a little more progress this weekend:

Started the bit at the top for the snatch block to hang from:



 

Aligned the holes - I may have to bore them out a bit, as it was a tight fit for a 1" pin.



 

side bracing



 



 

Mounted a pair of chain hooks on the back



 

decided to put a lift-eye/tie-down loop on there just-in-case



 

Got tired of fighting the rust and ospho battle, so I went ahead and sprayed the whole thing. 



 

I need to figure out something to catch the top of the logs and prevent side-to-side sway/wobble under the tongue, but I'll just grind the paint off those spots when I'm ready.  Thinking about two little 1-2" spikes sticking down and out about 4' forward of the arch?  I'm planning to give it a test-run here on the farm to get a handle on of what's needed. 





Thanks,

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #57 on: June 03, 2019, 10:40:21 AM »
The A inside the frame is supposed to lock the log from flopping back and forth. pick the log up till it nests in it and off you go. a secondary safety chain under the log is not a bad ideas. Especially if you tow it down the road.

Edit: oops missed under the tongue thing. Just need a upside down V on the tong to suck logs up into.

Offline doc henderson

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #58 on: June 03, 2019, 10:48:51 AM »
a brace that could be moved forward and back if needed for shorter/longer logs would work.  could have a U shape to fit the tongue with a bolt through the top, that can loosen to move it forward and back, with the V under it to hold the log.  is the rebar a temp brace?
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline Revival Sawmill

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Re: log arch build
« Reply #59 on: June 03, 2019, 11:10:28 AM »
a brace that could be moved forward and back if needed for shorter/longer logs would work.  could have a U shape to fit the tongue with a bolt through the top, that can loosen to move it forward and back, with the V under it to hold the log.  is the rebar a temp brace?
I like the movable brace idea - If I can make one sturdy enough!
No - the rebar is on there to stay.  Probably not needed, but it's out of the way, and maybe helps with side-to-side stresses.


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