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Author Topic: John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)  (Read 1022 times)

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Offline OffGrid973

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John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)
« on: May 23, 2019, 08:38:41 PM »
Hi Team,

I picked up this JD 316 tractor yesterday to pull my pintle hook trailer around on grass without needing my truck.  Two questions for anyone with knowledge or suggestions on how to fix/build:

1) attaching the pintle hook receiver I just purchased on amazon...goal is to raise high enough if tongue weight doesnt cause a wheelie...yard is level.  Or do I need a wheel under the frame to support load before attaching to tractor?

2) the tractor goes forward and reverse real slow at the moment...new trans may happen in future...what is the best to check now to get it moving 2mph which will suffice.  It drove up into the trailer yesterday and has crazy power / torque

 

 .

Thanks for replies or suggestions on this money saving build.

-chris
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Offline John Bartley

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer dog help
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2019, 09:10:37 PM »
Does this model have the variable speed belt system?    If so, check to be sure that the correct belts are on it and that the variable sheave pulley system is working freely. 

Ok, scratch the above .... from what I can see it's a Sundstrand hydrostatic tranny.   Check linkages etc for full movement, change the filter, and make sure the correct oil is up to level in the reservoir.  If that doesn't make it move you'll have to start checking charge pump pressures and so on...
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Offline OffGrid973

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer dog help
« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2019, 07:42:44 AM »
Excellent, this is first on the list for this afternoon.  Any more thoughts or replies are very welcome.
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Online btulloh

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer dog help
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2019, 08:24:55 AM »
It's nice to have a trailer mover.  You may need the nose wheel.  You'll probably just to need to experiment with the rig.  Sometimes it's hard to find a great way to attach the receiver.  Maybe some counter weights on the front of the tractor will take care of it.
HM126

Offline jb616

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer dog help
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2019, 07:36:56 AM »
I have a 314 that I am using to move logs with. I like your rear tires, I am going to put chains on mine. My log arch is made to balance the log, so the tongue weight is not an issue. I will post a video and a picture later, gotta get ready to mill some logs for a customer. 

Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer dog help
« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2019, 02:38:17 PM »
What about putting a receiver on the front of the tractor?  You would have a better CG, especially if you load the rear tires with fluid, add wheel weights and/or add a weight bucket to the rear.  Then it is easy to push the trailer into wherever you are trying to store it (assuming that is your intention).
John Sawicky

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Offline jb616

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer dog help
« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2019, 07:34:41 AM »
 

 I am working on a way to better secure the log on the arch. This one wasn't balanced as well as I wanted but it is barely dragging. The 314 had no problem hauling it. The log is a 13' cherry that was 19" diameter on the big end. 

Offline OffGrid973

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer dog help
« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2019, 05:24:53 PM »
Well here is the first attempt with the new tractor and trailer...should have gotten the dirt leveled out where new driveway was put in, the dirt speed bump gave me a FULL PULL at 1min 45sec...lol



I need some ideas on mounting front weights and also thinking about an adjustable set of wheels that mounts to the unhook lift so I can adjust if and when a bouncy section of lawn comes around.

Tractor stalled out after wheely so I pulled into backyard to check fluids and let it calm down a little...anyone knows what is best to check first after a wheely stall let me know.

Enjoy the video




 

 

 

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Offline Old Greenhorn

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)
« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2019, 08:19:59 PM »
OK, I am NOT trying to sound smart here, or tell you what you should do, but I have already been down this road and got badly hurt. Probably the only time I was really scared outside of being shot at a few times, which was less scary (because I had options).
 Please stop for a moment and look at your engineering and the physics of what you have. Your hitch point is way too high. Move your hitch point down near where the Deere engineers designed their, below the center line of the axle. There is no nice way to say this, but what you have there is really dangerous. I made this mistake and I was only 3 inches above the axle center line, I flipped the tractor backwards with a chain attached to a log trying to roll it. The tractor came straight back on top of me and the chain, being taught would not allow me to push the tractor back forward my my feet. I was alone and in a bad way with the engine running and gas pouring into my crotch. I finally got the tractor shut off but was losing the ability to hold the tractor up off my chest. When I was about to lose it and pass out I gave one more effort because if I didn't, i figured I was 'done', and managed to rock and roll the rig to the side and it fell in a pile as I managed to pull my leg back from being crushed. When I caught my breath, I couldn't stand up, my legs wouldn't do it. After 20 minutes I had the strength to crawl to the house and call a friend for help. I will never do that again.
 So I tell you all this in the hope that it keeps you from getting hurt, perhaps badly. Re-think your engineering. Just putting weights on the front is more stuff that is going to come back on you when you get in a bad spot. Please, just get your hitch point in the right place. Please.
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 450, 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) I mill for fun and my mental health. NYLT Certified.

I ain't the woodcutter, but I can cut wood 'til the woodcutter gets here.

Offline Tom the Sawyer

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)
« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2019, 09:27:09 PM »
Ditto on what OG said.  This is extremely dangerous.  I prefer a front hitch for moving trailers precisely.  I had a 21hp lawn tractor and tried to move the mill with the rear hitch - it does not work but I could see that before I flipped the tractor.  I have a front hitch on my F350, on my 8N tractor, and on a quick attach plate for the skid steer.  The lawn tractor was not rated to tow anything over 1000 pounds and that is a direct pull, no tongue weight (all it does now).  
07 Timberking B-20, Custom-made log arch, 20' trailer w/ log loading arch, F350 SD flatbed dump.  Princeton piggy-back forklift.  Bobcat S250, Stihl 025C 16" and a Husqvarna 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says "He's sawin logs", I ain't snorin'.

Offline LAZERDAN

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2019, 09:27:36 PM »
i AGREE with the ol greenhorn100%!!, Somebodys gonna get hurt.  Once is fun, time to trade up to a bigger frame tractor.  Don t wait ill its to late.  Been there Dumb that.   Lazerdan 

I hate preaching  

Offline OffGrid973

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)
« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2019, 12:23:48 AM »
Understood...thanks for the advice.

If I throw a set of tires under the tongue of the trailer am I just wasting time?  If so I may just stick to using the truck to move the monster trailer around.
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Online jimparamedic

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)
« Reply #12 on: May 30, 2019, 12:48:03 AM »
This is what gets you killed. Using the wrong equipment just think if you had a 500 pound log on there. Even empty there is no way that tractor would be able to stop that trailer on even a small grade. You either need a bigger tractor or a smaller trailer. 

Offline Old Greenhorn

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)
« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2019, 07:00:03 AM »
Understood...thanks for the advice.

If I throw a set of tires under the tongue of the trailer am I just wasting time?  If so I may just stick to using the truck to move the monster trailer around.
If you put a tow dolly (wheel pair) under the trailer tongue that can handle the weight and pull that from your lower hitch point on the tractor, you should be just fine. 
Reading back, it looks like you have some small issues to work out with that tractor to get it working at full strength and not stalling. Deeres are good workable machines and very fixable.  That trailer looks heavy compared to the tractor, so having it run right will make a difference.
 That's a nice pintle hitch setup, just try to get it below the center line of the axle and you are good to go to pull other stuff, like a little log arch or something. Just think it all through.
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 450, 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) I mill for fun and my mental health. NYLT Certified.

I ain't the woodcutter, but I can cut wood 'til the woodcutter gets here.

Offline doc henderson

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)
« Reply #14 on: May 30, 2019, 12:12:39 PM »
hey offgrid, I will try to make a few suggestions without piling on.  I agree that part of the problem is the weight difference between the two vehicles.  Also the reason ag tractors have big wheels on the back, is so when they pull, the tongue is lower than the axle line and tends to push the front down and the back up.  With the tongue high, the torque is fighting between pulling everything forward, or rotating the tractor backwards.  When a towed vehicle starts to weigh more than the tow vehicle, we go to goosenecks and fifth wheel hitches.  also start to add brakes to help stop everything.  Might google tractor pull hitch setups.  It would be one thing if the front rarely and with difficulty lifted, but it can barely stay on the ground.  I know this was just intended for the yard.  Not sure about your fab ability, but you could tear the whole thing apart and make a dedicated tow vehicle, like they use in airports.  Just using the moving power parts.  Under powered can be as bad as overpowered.  fortunately this rig moves slow.  I always worry operating a skid steer in a lot of brush, that a limb could enter the cab and interfere with the controls and before my very eyes and with nothing I can do about, force the skid steer forward and crush the occupant.. After 30 years as a Doc, 20 years ED, I watch my son carefully when he operates the skid steer as he does not yet, possess the required amount of paranoia.   :)  .  all the best, from all of us!
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline red

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)
« Reply #15 on: June 06, 2019, 09:00:44 AM »
Any updates?
We have a lot of good boys and girls in harms way
lets all support them and their familys.

Offline Woodpecker52

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Re: John Deere 316 - log trailer (phase 2)
« Reply #16 on: June 06, 2019, 10:45:13 AM »
My suggestion add a mower deck and start cutting the grass.
Woodmizer LT-15, Ross Pony #1 planner, Ford 2600 tractor, Stihl chainsaws, Kubota rtv900


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