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Author Topic: Hickory Door  (Read 2029 times)

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Offline Don P

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #20 on: June 01, 2019, 08:48:40 AM »
Most of us use a borate solution which is DOT, disodium octaborate tetrahydrate. The old USN mix was borax+boric acid heated in water until it goes into solution. The easy way to get that combination is to use Timbor. This works well on green wood and is EPA listed for that use. The cheaper and more readily available way is to use the chemically identical ag boron amendment Solubor at a rate of 1 to 1.5 lbs/gallon of water. Dipping the wood is best but you can spray or roll it on heavily. A drop or two of liquid soap helps break he surface tension and helps it flow on.

If the wood is dry a glycol helps wet the fibers and deepen penetration, ethylene glycol, anti-freeze, is the glycol used in the listed solution Bora-Care but any glycol will work, RV antifreeze is low tox and performs similarly. Rewetting dry wood risks relieving drying stress and causing distortion. If the wood is not yet machined that can be viewed as a stress relief. If the flooring is already machined the risk of damaging the finished product is high.
A laborer works with his hands
A craftsman uses his brain and his hands
An artist uses his brain, his hands, and his heart

Offline OffGrid973

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #21 on: June 04, 2019, 04:55:01 AM »
Not much on here about the type of wood , so I wanted to add my experience with hickory (heavy).  The slabs I cut three years ago never were purchased by anyone, most likely have some beetle character and will become firewood later this week during the yearly cleanup.  

If it’s a go regardless, then get it up off the ground to avoid any staining, (unless that is what you are going for) and buy some heavy hardware. If your design allows for double or triple layer door you can cut thinner and build quicker, plus allows for easier manipulating if needed during setup/glue-up.

Spar varnish (marine grade) always great for a top coat...good luck.
Your Fellow Woodworker,
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Offline tacks Y

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #22 on: June 06, 2019, 12:33:46 PM »
Some one asked for a pic of my door. The edge shows the 3 layers of oak, instead of a 2" single board. The center was wormy oak tree I cut. Otherwise I made it like any other door. It has stayed straight with the 3 layers.

 

 The raised panels are layered also with the board joints staggered.

Offline Weekend_Sawyer

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #23 on: June 10, 2019, 09:46:10 AM »
Will 7 degree blades saw it, or will I need a blade in another degree?  
hugs,  Brandi
I cut mine last year using a Woodmizer 7 Degree blade on my Norwood manual mill. I had no problems. It was a pretty big tree and straight I got 5 9' saw logs out of it.
Jon
That's a nice tree.
It was a magnificent tree and I wouldn't have taken it down but I noticed it the year before as it was dropping leaves earlier than expected. The next spring it was dead. I had a logger doing a harvest and he dropped it and bucked it for me.
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe. ... and it looks like my dream will come true!

Offline Brad_bb

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #24 on: June 10, 2019, 10:23:49 AM »
Consider using 4° band if you have it.  It will take a smaller bite and is all I can use with my mill (19hp kohler engine).  Hickory is so darn hard and around knots or grain direction change, can make the balde want to ride up or down.  Dry hickory is the worst.  Really hard to band saw.  7° requires more HP, and likely more prone to waves in hickory.  I've sawn a couple green and one dry hickory barn beam that was like sawing concrete and dulled a band in one pass.

If you build a door and you glue up, if you're using titebond glue, use the original.  Don't use Titebond 2 or 2.  They have more tendency to creep (soften and let the wood move) when heated by the sun.  Original titebond is better for that. Also, will you have an all glass storm door in front of the wood door?  Such a situation, with sun shining on it, can raise temps in that space like a green house.  It would be better if it could let heat escape and not get so hot.

I recommend getting Timbor or Solubore.  Spray your wood as soon as it's sawn.  If adult PPB lay eggs in the wood, it would be months before you'd see the larvae boring and by then they'd be in the wood.  The only way to kill them in the wood is kiln sterilization.  So you want to prevent them from getting in the wood in the first place by spraying right off the mill.  Your T&G that is inside, is the building they are in sealed like a house?  Will it prevent adult beetles from coming in and laying on the wood?  If it's a floor that is installed, and it has a finish on it, a film finish like oil based urethane or water based urethane, then a film finish will prevent adult PPB from landing on it, tasting the wood startch and then laying.  If they don't taste wood starch, they won't lay on it.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Offline samandothers

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #25 on: June 10, 2019, 10:26:02 AM »
@tacks Y 
Your layered oak was only in the rails and styles correct?

Offline btulloh

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #26 on: June 10, 2019, 10:39:34 AM »
I would not use PVA glue on that type of door. Probably better off with some type of urea resin glue. Resorcinal.

Just my .02

ADD:  Actually Weldwood (urea resin glue) would be fine.  If the door will be immersed in salt water, then stick with the Resorcinal glue.   :D :D

For certain parts of the door where there's NO constant strain, the TBII would be ok.  The creep gives me the creeps though.
HM126

Offline tacks Y

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #27 on: June 10, 2019, 12:27:40 PM »
The raised panels are layered also, so the joints do not match

 . Here is a pic of the top of the door joint. Looks like the top is only 2 layers??

Offline btulloh

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #28 on: June 10, 2019, 12:37:16 PM »
I like it. It gives you some options for grain and figure.

Is it pure cope and stick or do have some loose tenons hiding in there?
HM126

Offline Bindian

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #29 on: June 10, 2019, 05:28:33 PM »
Consider using 4° band if you have it.  It will take a smaller bite and is all I can use with my mill (19hp kohler engine).  Hickory is so darn hard and around knots or grain direction change, can make the balde want to ride up or down.  Dry hickory is the worst.  Really hard to band saw.  7° requires more HP, and likely more prone to waves in hickory.  I've sawn a couple green and one dry hickory barn beam that was like sawing concrete and dulled a band in one pass.

If you build a door and you glue up, if you're using titebond glue, use the original.  Don't use Titebond 2 or 2.  They have more tendency to creep (soften and let the wood move) when heated by the sun.  Original titebond is better for that. Also, will you have an all glass storm door in front of the wood door?  Such a situation, with sun shining on it, can raise temps in that space like a green house.  It would be better if it could let heat escape and not get so hot.

I recommend getting Timbor or Solubore.  Spray your wood as soon as it's sawn.  If adult PPB lay eggs in the wood, it would be months before you'd see the larvae boring and by then they'd be in the wood.  The only way to kill them in the wood is kiln sterilization.  So you want to prevent them from getting in the wood in the first place by spraying right off the mill.  Your T&G that is inside, is the building they are in sealed like a house?  Will it prevent adult beetles from coming in and laying on the wood?  If it's a floor that is installed, and it has a finish on it, a film finish like oil based urethane or water based urethane, then a film finish will prevent adult PPB from landing on it, tasting the wood startch and then laying.  If they don't taste wood starch, they won't lay on it.
My mill has a 38hp Yanmar diesel on it.  The door will not see the sun, the house will have covered porch all the way around.
hugs,  Brandi
Mahindra 6520 4WD with loader/backhoe and a Caterpiller E70 Excavator.  My mill is a Woodmizer LT40HD Wide Diesel.

Offline tule peak timber

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #30 on: June 10, 2019, 06:58:52 PM »
Rip - flip-layer, and march on. You are on the right track! Some guys use opposing grain panels (sandwiched) or a substrate in the middle. Door exposure to sun/rain is a huge factor to take into account when fabricating. Proper finishing schedule....... ;D
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

Offline bluthum

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #31 on: June 10, 2019, 07:20:39 PM »
All doors should have a big over hang /porch, perfect world. That's out of the way, good for you.

I've built a lot of sandwich doors without the cope and stick approach. Three layers, middle layer is cut to act as the tenon. Cope and stick for an  exterior door might be better with a floating spine anyway. 


Offline tule peak timber

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Re: Hickory Door
« Reply #32 on: June 10, 2019, 08:08:00 PM »
Agreed ,,, and you can do more....Hope you are going to the pig roast !
persistence personified - never let up , never let down


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