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Author Topic: kiln doors  (Read 454 times)

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Offline xlogger

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kiln doors
« on: May 29, 2019, 06:25:52 AM »
It's time to think about redoing my doors on my solar kiln. I have 5 doors on the front, each end doors on hinges and the 3 center doors are pickup and set in a slot on bottom with a clamp holding in place at top. They are all near 4 ft wide. I cut 1/2" poplar boards 8" wide before with insulation board behind. them. Now I have too much air between doors. I was thinking about buying 5 sheets of plywood and replacing them, any ideas on thickness and do you think they might stay flat? Keep in mind the 3 center doors have to be pickup and set in place, so weigh must be somewhat light.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Offline Brad_bb

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Re: kiln doors
« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2019, 12:50:10 PM »
Some pictures would help me understand how this is configured.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Online doc henderson

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Re: kiln doors
« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2019, 01:33:28 PM »
5 doors at 4 feet wide, makes you opening 20 feet by 8?  If you want a light, flat, 4 x 8 section, try laminating rigid foam as the core between two relatively thin sheets of ply.  caution some glues will melt/react with the foam.  I know many wings are foam with fiberglass overlay.  I bet there will be tons of ideas coming soon! ;D
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline K-Guy

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Re: kiln doors
« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2019, 03:34:29 PM »
To add to what Doc said, you could strengthen then by using 1 x 4's around the edge and as a diagonal cross piece.

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Offline xlogger

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Re: kiln doors
« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2019, 05:52:33 AM »
Yes if you open up all the doors your would close to a 20 ft opening. I usually put two stacks in there. One can be 8 ft and the other 10 ft. if I like most  of the time just two 8 ft stacks. I open the hinged door on one side and then take the middle door off, those two hold the second door in place, then I can get to one side. On the plywood, maybe I should get pressure treated. I just want to make it as light as I can. I do have to pickup all 3 of the middle doors to remove, gets harder and harder each year :D.
After I take one out I them move to my Nyle kiln to finish up.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

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Re: kiln doors
« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2019, 07:19:37 AM »
hard to explain but I can see it in my head. Some type of cam hanger on the top of the panel and a track of some type on the bottom (inverted angle iron). The only time the panel would touch the track is when you release the cam clamp on the top of the panel holding it in place. Then it would drop onto the track and you can roll it out of the way.

With that setup you would not have to lift the doors. You would still need bottom latches but I am guessing you already have all of that in place? 

Hopefully that was clear.

Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: kiln doors
« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2019, 07:36:39 AM »
I have seen lots of kilns in the past 50 years and the doors are often a weak point (leakage, warped, sagging), so I encourage a kiln builder to at least check out the cost of the custom made doors from Nyle.  They will perform well for years...kechanically sound, well insulated, easy to hang, easy to repair.  On the other hand, I have seen some excellent wood doors too...my favorite was a barn-door type with a roller wheel on the swinging  end...works well if the kiln has a large paved apron.

Remember to always consider that the wind might blow a door when it is open, so secure it well at all times.  Doors hung by an overhead track do need safety brackets to prevent it from falling on a operator who is opening the door.  In cold climates, often a tiny roof over the door is used to prevent snow and ice development at the top.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Online doc henderson

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Re: kiln doors
« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2019, 09:23:44 AM »
X, not my business but based on your comments and the replies, maybe it is time for a redesign on the doors,  can you send pics so we are sure to be on the same page.  maybe 4 five foot wide doors that hinge in between the outer 2 doors and on the side.  do you have lifting equipment like a tractor or skid steer?
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline xlogger

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Re: kiln doors
« Reply #8 on: June 01, 2019, 07:03:50 AM »
I have a bobcat, tractor with loader and a broken down forklift that I'm looking to replace :(. I"m getting close on finishing up my new shed 30x60 and when

 I'm done I'm thinking I'll redo my doors and a few other things on my solar kiln.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Online doc henderson

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Re: kiln doors
« Reply #9 on: June 01, 2019, 08:33:57 AM »
impressive and well organized!!
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.

Offline farmfromkansas

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Re: kiln doors
« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2019, 11:07:22 AM »
Was thinking of a way to build some bifold kiln doors, but 20' would be a little too big.  My thoughts were to build a 16' kiln with 14' opening, and fill the end walls with solid wood between plywood on both sides of wall, so you could use bolt through hinges, and welding up strap metal and pipe to make the hinges, and the doors would use a 2x4  frame, with insulation inside, and plywood on both sides, kind of like a torsion box.  Would have to add multiple 2x4's on the edge of doors with bolt through hinges. Another thought would be to use some thin steel and weld a door frame together, and screw plywood to outside. If you used angle iron, you would use the flat side out so you could bolt your hinges to that. Weld some flanges to the inside edge for a place to screw a sheet of ply to the inside.  Would want to use 1/8" or less thickness to keep the weight down.


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