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Author Topic: Shingle mill won't cut, blade almost new  (Read 657 times)

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Offline CONSERVATIONMAN

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Shingle mill won't cut, blade almost new
« on: August 03, 2019, 01:10:56 PM »
Bought a new blade last year, it cut for a while but this year it barely cuts at all. 

Looks like wood fibers are caught in the gullet.

We put on a harvest day demonstration once a year cut maybe 300 shingles

Could it need sharpening already?
thanks for any help
Wally



 


Offline Peter Drouin

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Re: Shingle mill won't cut, blade almost new
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2019, 11:51:10 AM »
Get a file. :)
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
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Offline ladylake

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Re: Shingle mill won't cut, blade almost new
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2019, 01:20:19 PM »
All it takes is a little dirt to dull any blade.   Steve
Timberking B20 14000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline gspren

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Re: Shingle mill won't cut, blade almost new
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2019, 04:40:35 PM »
Now my experience is more with metals and plastics but a build up on the gullets like that is usually from a rough finish in the gullet and no coolant. Depending on the size maybe clean them out and smooth with a dremel and use a coolant if possible.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, JD 2355 4X4 w/fel, JD 620, Yamaha Kodiak 400 & trailer, Kubota 400 RTV,  P&M OWB, 75 acres to play.

Offline LeeB

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Re: Shingle mill won't cut, blade almost new
« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2019, 03:22:05 AM »
Probably wouldn't hurt to clean the pitch off of the sides.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline CONSERVATIONMAN

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Re: Shingle mill won't cut, blade almost new
« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2019, 05:21:03 PM »
Thanks for the replies
Some more information to consider

We cut white cedar for the shingle

Does it matter if its green or dry?

We are a group of folks trying to put on a show mostly of old tractors, treshers, balers ect.  We do have a saw mill , a Jackson "Lumber Harvester".  Might need some help with that too



I would like to just sharpen the teeth on the shingle saw mayself ( get a file) but I have seen the damage done by other "experts" in our group, and must confess to little experiance myself. 

Any  real help on how to sharpen and what tools to use would be helpfull
thanks
Wally

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Shingle mill won't cut, blade almost new
« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2019, 07:56:27 PM »
If the saw runs flat [no wobble] and has set, equal on both sides, and is sharp it will go. It does not matter how new or old the plate is , it is all about condition. To day with carbide people have completely forgotten steel saw care. When I sawed with a solid tooth saw, I could only go a few hours with out filing and swedgeing .

Offline CONSERVATIONMAN

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Re: Shingle mill won't cut, blade almost new
« Reply #7 on: August 09, 2019, 08:44:44 PM »
wobble ( face runout) is another issue we have. How much is too much.  It is not the blade, I can measure ( i forget how much) wobble on the shaft face.

Is there anyway to correct that? other than sending the shaft to  Machinist?

W

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Shingle mill won't cut, blade almost new
« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2019, 08:42:31 AM »
You need to know where the wobble is. A dial indicator with magnetic mount is handy here. Could be the mandrel.  Check the saw collar that is on the shaft. Try mounting the saw in a different position or shimming with paper and grease if just a temporary test. It may help to run more set. I suppose this saw is screwed to 2 large collars to complicate matters more. All this should be looked at.


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