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Author Topic: Another build thread... JoshNZ  (Read 9520 times)

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Online JoshNZ

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #300 on: December 01, 2019, 02:10:41 AM »
I took a few measurements of the gauges face plate and got to drawing something up on Photoshop. How cool is this  ;D.



 

I could see the hour meter was entirely mechanical and I was able to fiddle it back to zero, so it'll count total hours of band running, why not...

I only have a monochrome laser in the office but I'll get a nice one printed in town on something decent tomorrow.

I have got a question for the experts, if I was going to put a green arc on it, where would it start and end? If at full noise out of a cut its doing 1106RPM which is 5350FPM, it might as well end there to say the gov is over speeding, but where's an acceptable place to start for bogging/pushing too fast?

Offline Jack S

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #301 on: December 01, 2019, 09:05:45 AM »
How about old bicycle speedometer  or car speedometers cable assembly's from the old days  only gotta get back say into the 80,s    also farm tractor tach cables are still available.

Offline ljohnsaw

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #302 on: December 01, 2019, 01:36:15 PM »
I have got a question for the experts, if I was going to put a green arc on it, where would it start and end? If at full noise out of a cut its doing 1106RPM which is 5350FPM, it might as well end there to say the gov is over speeding, but where's an acceptable place to start for bogging/pushing too fast?
 
What is your engine size and band size?  That will determine the sweet spot.  I would do a dual scale.  Larger numbers for the FPM of the blade (~4,000-4,500 preferred?) and a smaller set of numbers for engine RPM.  How are you going to drive this with the speedo cable?  My old 1967 Delmont 88 had a hollow front spindle that the speedo cable plugged into the grease cap for the bearings rather than the transmission.  A little funky but it worked!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/32" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Online JoshNZ

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #303 on: December 01, 2019, 02:09:04 PM »
It's a 22hp vtwin, standard 34mm or 1-1/4" I guess, I don't even know the set on it. 1.3tpi that sound right?

I'm still on my first one and it's still singing, been pretty happy with it considering the price!

It doesn't bog much I haven't been able to bug the engine yet. Maybe I should leave that face plate on it for now and run it for a day, see where the green arc should lie with what feels right.

Im either going to need a giant cable and run an S with big radii, to get it back to where the pressure gauge is, or I can build a bracket that hangs the gauge right off the end of the band wheel shaft, and not use any cable, just a little mini PTO shaft if you like. Will bore and thread into the back of the band shaft and machine a square on the end of it, and make the bracket bolts sliding so I can align it properly.

Offline charles mann

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #304 on: December 01, 2019, 02:27:46 PM »
We use colored fine point paint pens on the outside of the bezel and glass. That way a its easier to scratch off and replace in the appropriate rpm range. 
Temple, Tx
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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #305 on: December 02, 2019, 04:15:02 PM »
Yeah that's how this one is done, not a bad idea. That so when the well paying lifting jobs that are a little too big come in, you can shift the green arc for the pilot?  ;D. I flew with a guy down south he always used to say "the only time I ever spend in the red arc is while I'm pulling through it!"

I got through the rest of the logs on my drive yesterday, glad to have the space back. I have decided a fold down extension at the head is the way to go. I tried a full length log and I've not much interest in doing it again. Don't want to lift the boards and the stack is still sitting in the rain because I can't do anything with it! Doesn't fit in my doors and too long to trolley. I'm prob going to cut it in half so I can add it to my other stacks...

Still nothing broken or amiss... That tensioning jack is spent though, I can't even get right through a cut without leaking down to no tension so it's gotta go. Not looking forward to redrilling a new one.
Tell me, do I get to be in the club with this one  :D...



 

What causes this, is it just tension in the log or have I got some weird bed flexing or something going on? I think I was taking that cant about 1.5" above the pith



 

I had a big dirty native that I've been looking forward to getting around to, I ended up just doing thick live edge slabs and I think it was the right decision with how gnarly it is. It's a notoriously stable timber through drying so I hope it will behave and should yield some pretty furniture one day.



 

 

 

I guess everyone has to try this with their new mill sooner or later, managed to pull off a 2mm slab from an 850mm/33" log, I don't think I can complain with that. Probably not the best log to try it with, with all the inclusions in it but from what I can tell it's even all the way through



 




Offline RAYAR

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #306 on: December 02, 2019, 04:52:05 PM »
Blade tensioning, a good mechanical screw type set-up using a heavy spring for cushioning would be a good reliable and simple set-up.

Back stops, you need to design and install a blade guard that will contact your stops ahead of your blade and stop you from pushing your carriage any further until you lower your stops. Mine allows me 1/4" (6mm) clearance. Also mark your stops so you know the height you set them at.
mobile manual mill (local build) (mods & additions on-going)
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Online btulloh

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #307 on: December 02, 2019, 05:04:48 PM »
What causes this, is it just tension in the log or have I got some weird bed flexing or something going on? I think I was taking that cant about 1.5" above the pith


Looks like log stress being released.  Just a fact of logs, to one degree or another.  Some logs have none or very little, some have a lot.  Dealing with log stress being released while sawing is part of becoming a sawyer.
HM126

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #308 on: December 02, 2019, 05:39:26 PM »
First on your stops, yeah, if it cost you a blade, you are in, since there are photos, it must have happened. ;D

 On your spring board log, I too would go with stress. Did you cut this tree? If so, was it a leaner, I find this a lot. The lean stress comes out in the cut, and then more when drying, a LOT more. If you gt the log from somebody without know the history, I would still go with stress and in any event I would have "some kind of weird twist in the bed" way way down the list because we all watched you build that mill and know it is extremely unlikely. :)

I like your paper thin cut, it shows what the mill can do. I did one of those last year trying to hit a particular size and threw them on the burn pile. But then I re-thought and pulled them out and used a 2' long one for a sign over the mill shed thinking it would last a month or two and curl up. It's still there a year later and the other ones I had I put on the drying skid with some weight. hey dried nice and flat. Not sure what I will do with them yet, but I keep moving them around.

Man, I would love to get my hands on one of your dirty native slabs. Nice figure.
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 450, 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) I mill for fun and my mental health. NYLT Certified.

I ain't the woodcutter, but I can cut wood 'til the woodcutter gets here.

Online JoshNZ

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #309 on: December 02, 2019, 06:00:09 PM »
Haha it didn't cost me a blade. I noticed it at the end of the day, not sure when it happened. I'll have to keep trying.
I've been meaning to add the back stop guard, just want to make sure I'm happy with where everything sits first.

The tree was felled before I got there, all in pieces. It might even be a branch actually, I don't know. I'll forget about that one.

They're quite pretty huh, I actually went to the effort of painting the ends, figured they'd be worth it. I can't seem to bring myself to paint the other hundred boards =/.

I might try one more jack, identical to that one. If it didn't leak it would be perfect, I do like it, it's nice to be able to read real time tension while pushing. Otherwise I'll turn some kind of threaded jack and spring like you say.

Offline charles mann

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #310 on: December 02, 2019, 08:00:51 PM »

I might try one more jack, identical to that one. If it didn't leak it would be perfect, I do like it, it's nice to be able to read real time tension while pushing. Otherwise I'll turn some kind of threaded jack and spring like you say.
several on here have said i should use hydraulic for tensioning. i would venture to agree, since it'll take around 2800 lbs of force to tighten my blade. iv got 18" of 1.5" acme rod left, and can buy 2 more nuts, weld 1 on the rod and the other to maybe 1"-1.5" of steel. just need to find a spring, regardless if i go hydraulic or acme. the closest i can find is a 2300 lb compression spring. 
as for hitting your stop, don't do that, it can mess up your blades. 
Temple, Tx
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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #311 on: December 05, 2019, 05:21:04 PM »
I bought a new jack, a 4T one this time figuring less pressure would be easier on things. I ended up having to make an adapter plate to get it to fit on the pad already made for the old one. Also snapped a drill bit inside the jack foot while tapping it for the hydraulic gauge. Also had to skim the edge off the top of the reservoir side to get it to clear the beam sleeve. All in all, the dread of swapping it out was well founded... And I'm thinking about trying it one last third time, with what I've learned.

The bottle jacks' cylinder, seats on a washer/seal in the cast iron foot, I think the best advice I could give anyone wanting to tap a jack for pressure would be keep your passage well away from this seat, I think that is why I'm having issues. The bottom of the cylinder is taper threaded into the cast iron foot but you could drive a bus down this thread while it's snugged up, without a perfect/clean washer it will leak. I had this idea that this seat was only to retain the balls in the check valve mechanisms - over simplifying it and not giving it enough thought. @charles mann Going back for me I'd either be looking at a ram with a seperate pump so you didn't have to touch it (tap into hose for pressure) or stay right away from hydraulic tensioning... 

Offline charles mann

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #312 on: December 05, 2019, 05:39:49 PM »
Josh, if i go hyd, i would use a porta-power but having that bulky hand pump will make it just look gaudy. With the amount of tension ill require, hyd probably IS the best option, but i dont see the harm in trying the acme rod at first. I figure with that 1.5 rod, i should be able to manage 3000 lbs of pressure with not issues. If i cant find a spring, maybe an airbag or body mount may work. 
Temple, Tx
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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #313 on: December 05, 2019, 07:28:02 PM »
I was going to stick one of those small engine mount bobbins between the jack and sleeve if it needed it but it seems to go good without it. Have never seen the needle move during cutting. You probably need it even less with having more band and more frame to give, if needed.

Offline charles mann

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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #314 on: December 05, 2019, 07:59:52 PM »
True. My carriage is very shaky. I noticed it the other day when i was manually lifting the sawbeam to max height. Granted i have NO cross bracing anywhere just yet. I will put some short (24) on the front legs, parallel to the sawbeam to help support the legs for the sawhead linear rails, then do some 36 running from the same front legs, parallel to the mill bed and aft, then go from aft legs to the front, then again 36 tying the aft legs again parallel to the sawhead. In total, 8 cross brases. Hopefully that makes the carriage more rigid. 
After cranking on the motor today, trying to get it to run on its own, it shakes/rocks side to side like 10.0 earthquake. Not sure if i wanna keep and add at least 2 more rubber isolator mounts (bobbins for you josh) to help absorb some of the shake. 
Temple, Tx
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Re: Another build thread... JoshNZ
« Reply #315 on: December 06, 2019, 02:53:57 AM »
Haha sounds like it's going to look like a jungle gym. I will say those two funny cross braces I did through all three planes each really stiffened the thing up, I don't get any shake while cutting whatsoever now, as opposed to quite a noticeable shimmying before they went in. Any bracing will make a huge difference of course. Not sure isolator mounts will help with wobble type movement? I don't know. Vibration and chatter maybe.


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