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Author Topic: top weight  (Read 1305 times)

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Offline Mike W

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Re: top weight
« Reply #20 on: August 14, 2019, 08:17:59 PM »
 

 


How we are doing it.  We use our foundation forms which are 1 1/8" nine ply as the base form.  The notches are a true 4" x 2" with a slight bevel for easy removal once cured.  When we are pouring concrete on projects, we take one or two for the extra mud to get dumped into.  If no pours are scheduled, we are not short of any rocks around here and fill up to the cleat height, lay some welded wire mesh across with a few #4 bar (1/2") to help hold it all together, top off with more rock and just use mortar mix to fill it up.  Let set up, flip it over and strip the forms, slather it in concrete cure (all sides) this helps to keep it from absorbing any moisture back into the concrete.  our yard tractor has a lift capacity of 1800 lbs so this works great, at roughly 1000 lbs each it doesn't over tax the equipment and only 6" in height, if more weight is desired stack two, so we can easily get about 4000 lbs on our 8' long stock and only loose 12" of height, they are modular so we can play around with how much weight we want to load the stacks with pending the type of material we are drying.  Will try to remember to take a picture of the actual product when I am back at the yard.

Offline xlogger

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Re: top weight
« Reply #21 on: September 21, 2019, 06:44:38 AM »
I'm getting started on building some boxes for concrete, I had a rock pile and several cinder blocks laying around I put in the boxes first. Then filled with concrete. Made two 4x4 and one 4x6. When I put in kiln for drying now I can use 4x6 for 6 ft, two 4x4 for eight ft and one 4x4 and one 4x6 for 10 ft. Got to make one more 4x4 for 12 ft.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Offline caveman

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Re: top weight
« Reply #22 on: September 21, 2019, 09:05:09 AM »
Just a thought inside the box.  For quite a bit of weight and probably less expense than concrete, one could fill in the gaps in a pallet, and add sides that go up a few inches and fill with used, lead tire weights.

Years ago when we started making our own fishing weights, several tire shops gave us buckets of used weights (turns out that they were too dirty to easily melt and pour nice weights with-lead pipe worked much better).  

Steel scrap prices are pretty low right now too.  Some plugs from an iron worker, though not as dense as lead, may be an option as well.
Caveman

Offline customsawyer

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Re: top weight
« Reply #23 on: October 06, 2019, 12:52:00 PM »
I get my granite from a local guy that makes head stones. Any mistakes he makes he brings to me and we trade for lumber. ;D
Two LT70s and to much other support equipment to mention.
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Offline WDH

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Re: top weight
« Reply #24 on: October 06, 2019, 01:50:44 PM »
You also won't need to worry about a grave marker when you go to that Big Sawmill in the Sky.  
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5640SU, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Offline xlogger

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Re: top weight
« Reply #25 on: October 22, 2019, 04:58:04 AM »
Took my first load out of kiln yesterday after building some 4x4x10" concrete forms to put on top. I figure each one is about 13-1500 pounds. The load was 9/4 Ash and it came out nice and flat. I just have not in the past used enough weigh.
Now got a question. Where do you see most of your cupping in drying? My solar kiln is just not high enough to put much on it and my air drying I do try to set another rack of wood on top of them. I think I'll build about 4-6 more forms and this time maybe bring in a load of screening from rock quarry and fill them up. That should be good weigh and what left over is always a use for around the mill.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: top weight
« Reply #26 on: October 22, 2019, 06:36:42 AM »
Cupping tendency is high at two times...above 30% average MC and below 30% average MC.   :D  From a practical point of view, we will see more cup 
when drying slowly (high RH) at higher MCs (above 40% MC roughly), 
when rewetting the lumber between 20% to 40% MC, and 
when over drying (under 7% MC).

When drying fast, we get a dry outside shell that is nearly twice as strong than the wet wood, so this helps keep the lumber flat.  If we rewet the shell, this eliminates the strength and so cupping results.  As we overdry the lumber, wood shrinks more and more.   Incidentally, flatsawn cups more, and closer to the pith cups more.  Finally, lumber cups toward the bark, as the bark face has more flatter grain than the other face.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Offline Nebraska

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Re: top weight
« Reply #27 on: October 22, 2019, 07:11:45 AM »
I haven't drank enough coffee yet this morning but it occurred to me if one ran their cement weights through the kiln and they were dry and coated them with epoxy paint (don't know how much heat it will take) or maybe thinned gasket making silicone rtv high temp stuff it might slow down the moisture reabsorbung between trips through the kiln, old tractor front end weights come to mind as well.  Just a thought.


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