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Author Topic: Leveling a LT 35  (Read 367 times)

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Offline Arkyrick

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Leveling a LT 35
« on: August 12, 2019, 08:28:16 AM »
Ok I've been told by WM  that the LT only has to be eyeballed and I've also seen a video where the guy said he levels his mill on each job. I'm inclined to think it should be leveled. Opinions?
LT 35 hydraulic portable "73"Ford 335 tractor - lots of chains

Online LeeB

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Re: Leveling a LT 35
« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2019, 08:37:27 AM »
Doesn't have to be dead on level but does need to be evenly supported. Many actually let the mill lay a little lower on  side toward the log stops so the log will roll up against it. Normally I just eyeball it. 
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: Leveling a LT 35
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2019, 08:49:32 AM »
   I normally just eyeballed mine unless I had a level handy then I got it a little closer especially front to rear so the head doesn't want to roll forward of back on it's own or make the power drive work harder than it needs to. However last week I bought a pair of stick on RV levels and stuck them on the mill at 90 degree angles to use for both directions to help. They don't look to be super accurate but should be plenty close for what I need. I figure they were worth a $5.50 investment. I think Mr. Tom posted that idea in the modifications thread Bibbyman started a couple hundred years ago and I just happened to be passing the RV dealer and had some time and got around to doing it last week.

  I always take several small boards (2X8's and such) to put under the landing gears to get them more level and I take 3-4 3' long 1X6's to put under the wheel on the low side. I usually just drive up on them to get it mostly level side to side. I don't have FAOs on my mill so I also take along an old car bumper jack I sometimes use. It only takes a couple minutes for each job and seems well worth the time and effort. The jack is much easier to use to level those 2 inside landing gears which are such a pain to reach.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline Chuck White

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Re: Leveling a LT 35
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2019, 06:54:53 PM »
The mill doesn't have to be LEVEL, just SOLID and eyeball close is close enough!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
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Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain a Wood-Mizer

Offline millwright

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Re: Leveling a LT 35
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2019, 07:01:56 PM »
I used to eyeball level my 35, but after putting on faos I level it with a 2 level, it makes it a lot faster to set up.  

Offline jmouton

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Re: Leveling a LT 35
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2019, 09:33:03 PM »
we use a 4 ft or 6 ft level and get it close as long as your making straight and flat lumber , the mill get s moved around alot when we are milling portable cuz we are usually in the dirt , so as long as the fao s  are snug not tight and wheels still on the ground 
lt-40 wide ,fiat tractor,bobcat,international flatbed,10 ton trailer, stihl 075,041,029,066,and a 2015 f-350,and a oldwheel loader ,grapple system coming soon!!

Offline Arkyrick

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Re: Leveling a LT 35
« Reply #6 on: August 12, 2019, 09:36:04 PM »
Thanks everyone good advice😊
LT 35 hydraulic portable "73"Ford 335 tractor - lots of chains


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