Help with Chain Grinder

[Mark M]

I just got a new chain grinder from Baileys and am looking for some words of wisdom before I start using it. I haven't used one since 1972 so I forgot everything I knew which wasn't much to start with.

One thing I would like to do is grind one of my chains for ripping because I have some big chunks that are too hard to get into the splitter.

Thanks in advance.

[beenthere]

Mark M
I use just the regular chain for cutting large chunks and knarly ones down to size, and if not going exactly parallel with the grain, it works quite well (certainly well enough I wouldn't want to labor over switching chains). Just a thought.

I'm not too keen on using a grinder. Wish you well, and take small 'bites' (almost to where you don't think it is even touching the chain).

[rebocardo]

>  have some big chunks that are too hard to get into the splitter.

The best way to split big chunks is to flip them on their side and line the bar up with the grain length wise and cut it that way with regular chain. You should end up with a lot of curls. I do use ripping chain sometimes doing it that way and it works well, though you have to be very cautious about the kickback.

Hand ripping down from the top of the round can be brutal vibration wise and slower. I just do it when I want a small cant or piece of wood for a project or want to put an X in the top for wedge splitting.

[DonE911]

I just bought a new grinder from baileys also... not the "auto" model... the next step down I guess.  You have to lock the chain in place on every tooth. You do all the right hand teeth and then all the left's or vice versa.

It works great, I just wasted an old chain getting the hang of setting it up right, after you get the hang of it, it only takes a few minutes to sharpen a chain including the set up. ( unless you are making major changes to the tooth angle )

If you are going to re-grind regular chain to ripping angles, my advice would be to go slow and grind each tooth back in small stages.... the heat from a big change like that with cause problems.  Also clean your chains before sharpening, any sap buildup causes  heat issues on the tooth being sharpened. There is a good thread here on cleaning the sap and crusty buildup from your chains.

Don't forget about the depth setting knob on the top right of the motor .... I did just that and nearly cut a chain in half ( stupid on my part,but I do alot of stupid things )

As for ripping your firewood chunks down, the others probably offered good advice as far as using ripping chain.  Now for milling you will want to use ripping chain, although you don't have to.  You have to grinder now, so why not make some ripping chain and give it a try.

Have fun with your new toy ( err.. I mean your new TOOL ) 8)

[D._Frederick]

Mark,

A few years back Baileys had a wax stick in there catalog to reduce the heat on the tooth from grinding. I touch the wheel about every 4 or 5 teeth with the wax on my Oregon 511 grinder. I don't get any blue tips and the cutting edge has a polished look. Works great!

[sprucebunny]

Make sure der is no slop in da ting dat holds da chain where it attach to da base. Mine had slop. Fixed it with some tape wrapped around da shaft. ;D

[ridgerunner]

I have a magnifling light mounted over the top of my grinder. This is realy a great help. once in a while i will roll a cutter back and get a close-up look on how i am doing. I grind my chains free handed, I don't use the chain lock. Its to slow,I hold the cutter with my fingers slowly feed it agaist the wheel. when i feel the cutter warming up, i move to the next cutter. I do a lot of stump work on my farm and spend a lot time at the grinder.  I let my chains soak in gasline for about a hour and then take them out, hang the up to dry for about a half a hour. this keeps your wheel in good shape.


good luck

ridgerunner


   

[Mark M]

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Mark