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Author Topic: Blade Sharpener and Setter Questions  (Read 2337 times)

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Offline GF

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Blade Sharpener and Setter Questions
« on: July 18, 2005, 09:33:21 AM »
I have read several threads on the forum about bandsaw blade sharpeners and setters and still had questions.  I am looking for your positive and negative inputs about the brand you currently use.   

I have looked at several brands (online) and am wanting to purchase these two items.  I would prefer to have a sharpener that grinds the entire profile of Munks blades primarily and a couple other.  I have tried to locate information on the WoodMizer sharpener and setter online at their website but could not locate and detailed information or pricing, maybe someone could point me to the correct link at their site.  Any information is greatly appreciated.

GF

Offline Tom

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Re: Blade Sharpener and Setter Questions
« Reply #1 on: July 18, 2005, 09:45:32 AM »
Here's the link to Wood Mizer's blade mainentance package.

http://www.woodmizer.com/en/blades/bmp.aspx

I have the setter and sharpener both.  They are good tools and I prefer them over any other small unit I've found so far.  The setter is accurate and easy to use.  The sharpener will follow Wood Mizer's cam to grind their profiles.  You can get other profiles, though I'm not sure if they make one for competition blades.  You could make one yourself if you like.  I'm sure a machinest could make one to fit most any profile.

I like the DC Motors even if I don't sharpen in the woods any more.  It still gives me the option to run it off of a battery instead of finding an AC outlet.

I like the idea of using a coolling liquid on the stone and blade too.   I've ground both dry and wet and seem to get the best edges with a wet grind.

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Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: Blade Sharpener and Setter Questions
« Reply #2 on: July 18, 2005, 10:05:18 AM »

  You can grind the WM cam to do any blade you wish. Primarily, the Munks blades have a deeper gullet, but, not a large difference. I ground the cam on the one I have and can replace it with the WM cam when I wish.

  Take an old blade to experiment on grinding the cam. It's really not difficult.
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Offline shopteacher

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Re: Blade Sharpener and Setter Questions
« Reply #3 on: July 18, 2005, 11:29:39 AM »
FDH, did you get that 2 tooth setter working yet?
Proud owner of a LT40HDSE25, Corley Circle mill, JD 450C, JD 8875, MF 1240E
Tilt Bed Truck  and well equipted wood shop.

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: Blade Sharpener and Setter Questions
« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2005, 11:33:55 AM »

  Haven't had time to re-work it, Teech  ::)
All truth passes through three stages:
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Offline Tom_Averwater

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Re: Blade Sharpener and Setter Questions
« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2005, 09:10:37 PM »
I use a vollmer lilliput grinder . It is a heavy duty sharpening shop type of a grinder. It works good. There have been several in Talledega catalog lately .One of them was in Missouri .  Tom
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Offline Gilman

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Re: Blade Sharpener and Setter Questions
« Reply #6 on: July 19, 2005, 12:21:06 PM »
I sure wish you could get a diamond wheel or CBN with a permanent profile.  No more shaping your wheel.  You'd only have to take percautions to avoid loading the grinding wheel.
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Offline Tom

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Re: Blade Sharpener and Setter Questions
« Reply #7 on: July 19, 2005, 12:52:26 PM »
I've thought that same thing at times.  Most of the time, I'm glad that i get a chance to shape the wheel.  Not only can I expose new cutting surfaces to the blade, but I get a chance to modify the shape of the tooth.   The cam is the primary way of setting Pitch, but I have been successful in grinding 3/4 pitch blades with a 7/8 pitch cam just by aggressively shaping the stone to accentuate the shape of the cam. 

Did you know, on a Wood Mizer sharpener, that you can change the shape of the tooth and gullet just by turning the "push-rod" over?   It takes a little more energy to push it but it creates a deeper gullet and a taller tooth..... 

I've played around with stuff like that a lot just to see what would happen and have come up with a lot of little tricks to get me through difficult woods or damaged bands.

That little split pin on the push-rod, wears a groove in itself where it rides on the blade.  I've found that shank portion of a used drill bit makes a good substitute and may even be better than the split pin.  I can't remember the size of the drill bit right off hand but you can make several pins out of the shank of one drill bit.  that even makes it almost economical.   It's good to change a pin that has a bad groove worn in it because it hangs up.  Sometimes the blade rides in the groove and sometimes it rides beside the groove.  That little bit will cause the face of the tooth to be ground differently from one tooth to the other.

I've also found that it isn't the best thing to use a stone that has worn down to a nub.  They will still work, as long as they can make contact with the band, but their "surface speed" decreases and you have to slow the advance down to give them a chance to grind the tooth.   That's why a new stone creates such a clean and sharp tooth.  In comparison to a worn stone, the new stone is Hauling ___.   You know what I mean.  :D  The smaller the diameter of the grinding wheel/stone becomes, the slower its surface speed.  An analogy might be the comparison between an Axe and a Hatchet.


I like Wood Mizers sharpener and the fluid coolant.  Many say not to use water, but I do.  I guess commercial coolants may be better but water is always available.  :)  The only problem with wet grinding is that the grinding dust turns to mud and sticks on the parts of the machine.  You have to be fairly careful about keeping that stuff knocked off.  You don't have to be anal about it because it only can hurt if the build-up stops the workings of the machine, just be aware of the potential problem when things go awry.  The worse place for the buildup is where the blade is clamped. The detriment gets into the clamp and allows the blade to move.  That can really barf up a sharpening job and is easily overlooked.  Be on the lookout of a blade that tilts to the rear when the stone hits it, or slides forward as the stone comes down on the face. 

One good way of helping to keep that trash out of the pump is to put a magnet in a ziplock bag, expell the air and put it in the coolant tray.  It will help to keep the "junk" out of the pump.  To clean it, turn the ziplock inside out and through it away. or just take the magnet out and the trash will fall off. (pretty much)

I haven't done it but have considered having two containers for the fluid.  Let the tray catch the trash and put a hose from the drain hole in the tray to a 5 gallon bucket below that is full of water and has the pump in it.  Most of the trash could be stopped at the tray.

Having the "resting arms" out of level will cause you have a miss-shaped tooth too.  It doesn't allow the band to rest horizontally in the clamp and that changes the hook.  Believe it or not, the back resting arm being too low can provide enough pressure to overcome the clamp and cause the blade to lean one way or the other. 

If you pay attention to these minute details, it is a great boon to have your own sharpener.  I would be lost without mine.  I don't know why I keep getting so verbose.  I'm afraid y'all will start making me raise my hand. :-\ :D
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