Komatsu Crawler

[shopteacher]

I'm looking at a D21S  Komatsu crawler loader  1975 with just under 2000 hrs on her.  Anybody familiar with this model or this brand in general?  I've seen quite a few big track hoes working out there from this company, but not really that familiar with this type of equipment.  Any tips on what to look at when inspecting one?  I hear a lot about the undercarriage on used machines, but how can you tell how bad the wear is on it?  Just got back from Spokane and seen quite a few dozer's sitting around the wheat fields and a guy pulling a huge set of harrows with one.  Went to see the big *DanG, man that's a lot of concrete.  Well thanks for any thoughts and replies.

[Rockn H]

Check the main drive sprocket.  They need to be blunt on the tips, just like any smaller sprocket.  New ones are about 3/16 at the tip.  I've seen alot that a sharp enough to cut you. ;D  These need to be built up or replaced.  Next I would check the track rail and pins where  the two go together.  They will eventually wear thru at this point.
Now I'll let everybody else give you better advise. : :D :D

Thought I would add, to me Komatsu is kind of like Kubota for heavy equipment.  You can buy parts anywhere and I haven't heard any negative.  Well no more than anything else. ;D

[shopteacher]

.  Next I would check the track rail and pins where  the two go together.  They will eventually wear thru at this point.

Thanks for the info Rockn H .  Is the track rail the piece right above the track where it meets the ground?  I've heard of pin wear.  Are they the pins that hold the track together or something else?  This is only about a 8000 lb machine and was wondering how it would do for pulling logs uphill and digging out stumps?

[D._Frederick]

Shop-,

How big are the logs and stumps?  An 8000lb machine is better at pulling small logs than it is at pushing out stumps.

The rails are what the track rollers ride on to hold the weight of the machine, if they are warn down too much, you will have a problem of the tracks coming off.

[Rockn H]

We used a small case to clear some fence rows and were impressed.  With the loader you can get more leverage than with just a blade.  As to pulling up a hill there will be a point eventually where you have more resistance than traction.  I'd say it depended on the hill, the size of trees, and if you could get the end of trees up for less resistance.  Just remember a track will get more traction than a tractor tire will for sure.

[shopteacher]

I have a couple pictures of the machine and put a couple arrows pointing to the parts and what I think they are.  Please confirm or tell me if I'm wrong.
I'm going to try and go look it over tomorrow so please if you have any thoughts or suggestions let me know ASAP.  
 This is part of the add:

8,000#'s, 1989 hrs on meter,   Powershift model  means no  clutch operation with choice of 3 speeds forward and 3 speed reverse. Real nice undercarriage just look at the pictures.   The tracks are almost new and the pads   Starts and runs nice.
, , ,

[pigman]

teach,  what you are calling a track roller is the top idler. The track rollers are on the botton. The track rail is the part of the tract chain  that the track rollers ride on. The drive sprocket looks good. Most chains stretch from pin wear before the track rail wears down, but it  depends in what conditions the machine is operated.

[shopteacher]

Pigman,
   Are the track rollers where I have it marked track rail in the first picture?  Can you see these rollers when looking in the the track mechanism?

[Minnesota_boy]

I have an International 150 that has a loader on it.  The machine weighs 20,000 pounds and is a bit small for serious stump pushing.  I've had the back of the tracks off the ground trying to get a stump to bust loose.  Some take a LOT of digging.

[pigman]

There are 5 rollers on that machine. You can see the ends of them in the pictures. They bolt under the long rail in the first picture.

[Haytrader]

Aren't the track rollers located along the track rail?
The roller you put the arrow on is just a support roller and doesn't wear as much because it doesn't have the weight of the machine on it.

From the looks of your pics, it appears to be in good condition and I suspect it has had good care and/ or parts have been replaced when needed.

Have you looked on Heavy Equipment Trader to see if there are any on there to compare to?

[Rockn H]

Yall are fast. ;D  The pins I was referring to hold the tracks together, they are also what engages the drive sprocket more or less.
The drive sprocket I can see, and everything else, looks pretty good.  Check to see that the two tall levers in the center pull back and lock the clutch knuckles in place.  You should be able to let go and it keep going if they are adjusted right.  
Don't forget to get him to show you where to add grease to tension tract if you get it.

[Haytrader]

 :

H, we are fast, not half fast.

;)

[Rockn H]

 :D :D :D :D

That's what I said. :
8) 8) 8)

[beenthere]

Some logger types may have a comment on the type of track, and how 'woods-worthy' they are. It's my impression that track is too smooth for woods work. Also depends on the conditions in the woods as to rocks such as rock outcroppings, etc. A ROPS or canopy for woods work would be good to consider.

But, that outfit looks like a lot of fun and that it could do a lot of work for you.  As to size for stumps; any size is too small when the stump is too big, and the bite is 'biting off more than it can chew'. 

[tnlogger]

teach it looks in pretty good shape from what i see. as far as draging logs you can always buck your logs to size to get them to flat ground  build you a trailer with bunks on it to get them where you want.
all in all thats a good little loader for around the back 40 and should do you a good job

[shopteacher]

Is there a site or a blue book for these things.  I talked with two guys today both who have numerous crawlers and one says it would have to be like knew for that price $8250.00  and 6500. would be more liike it.  The other guy seemed to think it was a bad deal if the condition is good.  I'm just wondering what it's book value is.

[Sawyerfortyish]

Boy that looks like an old 2010 JD I used to have. Looks like it's siting along a road if it were me I would go there by myself and slide under the back end and give them under carrige rollers a good close look for wear and the rails for stress cracks. You can feel the wear on the rollers by running your fingers over the sufface of the roller that contacts the track it would be flat if new but if the surface has a belly in it then theres some wear. Thats to be expected. I would also want to hear it run and like someone else said check the steering cluches and make sure they work right. If you know anyone that operates a crawler and ther willing to go with you that would be a big+
  As for pulling logs crawlers don't work good at all in rocky conditions they sit and spin and bounce you'll find out. Dozers work a little better for pulling since the tracks have higher cleats. Loaders have flatter cleats so as to turn easier and not rip up so much ground. But having flatter cleats they also tend to fill up in soft soil and loose traction. But if your just going to pull a few trees once in a while I'm sure it'll do just fine. As for the price I paid 6500 15yrs ago for a 2010 jd made in the early 60's (i think) and traded it in on a tractor and got 9000.00 on trade 5 yrs ago. I think how a machine is taken care of means more than hours or years. What I will say it looks freshly painted. Don't let paint sell it. Look at it all the more closely.

[tnlogger]

teach go to equipmenttrader.com and search for one the same size it'l give you an idea

[Haytrader]

UMMMMMMM  Teach,

If ya look, reply #10 suggested a site to see what the asking prices are.
How many times have you told your students to PAY ATTENTION?

;)

[Ironwood]

Teach,  Tread cautiously as those heavy iron beasties can get expensive to repair. I always try to hire that work out, dirt moving, excavating. There are just too many wear points and such to go wrong. Looks like fun though. Good luck. Reid

[shopteacher]

I want to thank all you for the great input.  I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet, but will tread lightly.  I have time as this is not a pressing issue.  I think I'm going to look for a little heavier machine though like a JD 450. I've learned already from your posts and will research this a lot more before laying down the cash.   If anyone knows of a real nice one give me a holler. 

Haytrader:  So that's what are those kids are doing in my shop.  Students, now that's a new concept.

[gmmills]

Teach,

  If you are looking at JD 450's do not consider any 450 older than a 450C. The straight 450's and the 450B's have dry steering clutches. The 450C's and newer have wet steering clutches and brakes. They run in oil. I owned a 450C for many years. Put many hours on it and no steering clutch or brake issues. I would never consider a machine with dry clutches. Even if it was given to me. They are not very reliable and expensive to repair.  Make sure the model you are looking at has a turbo charged engine. Some 450's are naturally aspirated. The naturally aspirated engine is a gut-less pig compared to the turbo engine. Also any tracked machine you consider make sure to look at the final drive seal. Stick you head under the machine and look up at the back side of the sprockett where the drive axle exits the drive housing. If wet from oil seepage run away. If a final drive seal is leaking it will not get any better. Eventually the seal will fail completely and the internal gears and bearings will be contaminated with dirt or mud. Not a pretty site when it is torn down to repair. Many expesive pieces in a final drive housing.  Good Luck.