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Author Topic: belsaw again  (Read 1351 times)

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Offline mikej

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belsaw again
« on: December 29, 2005, 02:58:37 AM »
 hi i got my cd off ebay with all the sawmill info books on it and was reading some of the info in the circlesaw book and may have found something but am confused it says to detirmine if saw is right or left stand in sawers position and look at blade if log passes on right then it is right hand if on left then left hand . but on a bellsaw the arbor goes under the carrige instead of having a husk as in larger mills does this matter if it doesn't then my bellsaw is right hand . this brings me to ?2 the blade is hammered into a slight dish should the bowl side be to the log or away from the log.the circle saw book states rim speed of 10000=11000 sfm for softwoods and a little slower for hard woods at 600 rpm i only have 6200 sfm at the rim on 40 " blade unless i am figuring somthing way wrong  ??? . any ideas thanks mike

Offline D._Frederick

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Re: belsaw again
« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2005, 11:30:29 AM »
Mikej,

If I remember correctly, the dish of the sawblade must face away from the log. If it faced inward, as the saw slowed down it would pull into the log, not a good idea.

The higher the rim speed, the faster the saw can be fed into the wood (log), but it also requires more horsepower.  With your Belsaw, your blade must be hammered to the rpm that your saw arbor will be turning at.  If you have enough hp, then the maximum feed rate will be determined by the number of saw teeth and gullet size.

Offline UNCLEBUCK

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Re: belsaw again
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2005, 02:27:31 AM »
Hello mikej , When you stand looking at your sawblade at the sawyers position or box with the carriage stick in your hand and you pull the lever the log goes through the sawblade , if the log passes on your left side you have a left hand mill ,if it passes on your right side you have a right hand mill. This should have been the first question from the man you brought this blade too last .  I would totally forget about all this rim speed confusion because your carriage is belt driven and matched for that blade and number of teeth. I would saw at 300rpm up to 540 rpm and it wouldnt make one bit of differance because you have no way to adjust or change the feed rate unless you switched over to a hydraulic carriage. What you have going is just fine the way it is . If you think youre underpowered I would still pull the lever and send that log through even if you started into the log at 540rpm and came out the other end at 200rpm because as your rpm drops so will your carriage speed, You have no way to go wrong with your set up. I wish I still had what you got and that is a belt driven carriage. Now if you ever change sawblades and get a blade with a different diameter or more or less teeth then you would have to worry about changing your feed rate.  I believe you checked your lead so thats not a problem, everything on the mill is squared up and the track is in total alignment , .  All teeth are sharp and square edged, shanks are nice and snug and also have a square edge but the last man that you took this blade too would have picked any problems out right away just by looking . If you have went through all the steps even loosening the blade and just eyeballing the collar ,if the blade stands up straight at say somewhere around 400 rpm to 540rpm , guides have a crack of daylight on each side, it leaves you with one and only problem and that is to go to or send this blade out u.p.s. to a "PROFESSIONAL SAW SHOP" and for less than a couple bills you will finally enjoy your sawmill or they will say your blade is junk . I know first hand what you are going through and I was set against sending my blades away but it was the best thing I ever done. There is alot of so called people who grew up on sawmills all their life or been in the woods all their life and word gets around and people think hey I bet he will know how to fix my blade but if you just take a time out and please get your blade hammered . A professional will ask you what rpm do you want , say 540 rpm if you can get it off your 60 jd, if you cant then tell them to hammer that s.o.b. for 500rpm, go open up your 60 and put a tach on the pto and go 50 rpm below that. Tell them right or left hand and belt driven carriage etc..  You get er done now this time because I am quitting copenhagen new years eve and youre gonna have so much fun sawing when your blade comes back that you will have a whole new list of questions like , a kiln, a green chain,a live deck,$$$$  So you do the right thing and help keep me off copenhagen by getting your blade to a professional saw shop. Look over to the left of your computer screen and click MENOMINEE SAW  . Happy New Year to you mikej , dont give up and dont ever be afraid to keep askin here .
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender


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