Anyone used a 'RIPSAW' ?

Jimbob · January 19, 2006, 08:57:07 AM

Has anyone any experience with the 'RIPSAW' ? (It's a chainsaw-head powered portable hand-held sawmill with a bandsaw blade.)

North Wind · January 19, 2006, 07:03:30 PM

Just sent away for some info.It looks like something small to carry the woods.

jkj · January 19, 2006, 09:50:22 PM

Jimbob,

I haven't used one, but I was very close to buying one. I spent months researching before deciding it would probably be quite slow to use and underpowered for even my casual use. (farm, personal)

It's big features are portability to take to the woods and thin kerf compared to a portable chain mill. Perhaps it would be more useful as a compliment for a larger sawmill than a substitute.

I was first attracted by the portability, but then I decided it would be as much or more effort to haul the lumber out of the woods as it would be to skid the logs out of the woods. I ended up buying a Woodmizer LT-15 and set it up in a fixed location behind my barn. The cost of the Ripsaw was also far higher than I expected once I added in the extra carriage system and new saw head - for my use I think the Woodmizer is a better value for the dollars spent. The ease of use and "fun factor" of the WM undoubtedly far exceeds the Ripsaw. If cost is a factor, the WM LT-10 might be another one to look at.

So far I've milled white oak, v.pine, y.poplar, e.r.cedar, r.maple, and persimmon with the LT-15 and I'm well pleased with the saw.

JKJ

Brad_S. · January 19, 2006, 10:30:09 PM

I saw one in use once and was not impressed, but in all fairness to Ripsaw, I think it was more operator related. Like any bandsaw, if the blade is not sharp it will not track straight and I think the blade was the problem when I saw it used. To compound the problem, the band is so narrow that it is easy to deflect the blade. So after the first pass, the guy had a wavy surface on his log. The next pass is then made by following along on top of the last pass like an Alaskan mill, so with the guys first pass being wavy to start with, the second pass had no hope of ever being near flat. He needed 6/4 rough to get 3/4 s2s, but he was proud of being able to saw a log himself and was having a ball doing it and that's all that matters sometimes. ;)

treeboy · January 22, 2006, 07:50:33 PM

Hi Jimbob, I bought a used one a few months ago. It also had a 044 with it. It reqires a bit of playing with to cut right. It's also only really good for smaller diameter logs. My saw weighs about 40 pounds and I was going to take it into the woods and build a cabin.

I have cut up a birch with it, too slow for a production mill, but for cutting up the occasional logs or for a home builder I think the saw is pretty good. Buying new is quite expensive though. You can also make siding with it.

toxedo_2000 · January 25, 2006, 12:29:46 AM

Yep ! I have one. It is very usefull for places where no access with a vehicule is possible. I use to bring mine in my floatplane, and helicopter. Weighted about 60 pounds with the 064 Sthill, it keeps the guy in gooood shape ! An other 40 pounds for the aluminium 2x6 guides though. I made a lot of boards and 2X4 for my cabin. I can say it is impressive with a so small mill. BUT you'll have to work a lot. Be prepared. I can also say, if I did'nt had it, I would not have built my cabin. Portability is the quality of the Ripsaw. I think I bought it new in 1994. For accuracy, it is not bad when the band is new, but it is hard to put the good tension on the thin blade.
This little machine has good quality. I dont have, and did not try, neither seeing the model with the tracks at work.
If your are thinking about the late model, the one with the track, rethink. For few dollars more, you'll have acces to a more productive bandsawmill, low end range, like the smaller Norwood or other brands. But if you dont have access by road to the place you want to work, Ripsaw is the thing.
I own a Gilbert mill, but I am just not ready to sell my Ripsaw. Instead, I would like to built (and I will) a portable wooden track. It would be easier to work with logs than to work with the mill....
Toxedo

scottr · January 30, 2006, 09:25:57 AM

Quote from: Brad_S. on January 19, 2006, 10:30:09 PM
I saw one in use once and was not impressed, but in all fairness to Ripsaw, I think it was more operator related. Like any bandsaw, if the blade is not sharp it will not track straight and I think the blade was the problem when I saw it used. To compound the problem, the band is so narrow that it is easy to deflect the blade. So after the first pass, the guy had a wavy surface on his log. The next pass is then made by following along on top of the last pass like an Alaskan mill, so with the guys first pass being wavy to start with, the second pass had no hope of ever being near flat. He needed 6/4 rough to get 3/4 s2s, but he was proud of being able to saw a log himself and was having a ball doing it and that's all that matters sometimes. ;)

Brad , in the 9.5 years that I've had my Ripsaw there has never been a wavy cut problem with a sharp or dull band . It's obvious that the demonstrator did not know how to tension his band . Did he use the guide beam for the first cut ?

scottr · January 31, 2006, 08:43:13 AM

Quote from: treeboy on January 22, 2006, 07:50:33 PM
Hi Jimbob, I bought a used one a few months ago. It also had a 044 with it. It reqires a bit of playing with to cut right. It's also only really good for smaller diameter logs. My saw weighs about 40 pounds and I was going to take it into the woods and build a cabin.

I have cut up a birch with it, too slow for a production mill, but for cutting up the occasional logs or for a home builder I think the saw is pretty good. Buying new is quite expensive though. You can also make siding with it.

Spencer , the playing that you had to do to get your Ripsaw to cut right was because you did not get the guide beam and the proper information on blade tension . Correct ? Scott

woodbowl · January 31, 2006, 09:06:25 AM

Quote from: treeboy on January 22, 2006, 07:50:33 PM
Hi Jimbob, I bought a used one a few months ago.

Quote from: toxedo_2000 on January 25, 2006, 12:29:46 AM
Yep ! I have one.

Quote from: scottr on January 30, 2006, 09:25:57 AM
Brad , in the 9.5 years that I've had my Ripsaw ........

I've never seen one! Do you have some pics of it? Is there a website?

toxedo_2000 · January 31, 2006, 09:48:17 AM

http://www.ripsaw.com/

There you are
Tox

grampt1 · January 31, 2006, 11:27:58 AM

I have had one for about 5 years now and the only problem I have had with it is that I can't seem to cut straight boards consistently. New blades seem to work best but once they get a little dull things go down hill fast and I end up with wavy boards. I have messed with the tension and sharpening the blades but have not had much luck. Spencer seem to have better luck, so I guess it must be that I don't know what I am doing. Wish I would have bought a LT-15

toxedo_2000 · January 31, 2006, 11:58:26 AM

Most of the bandsawmills could outperform the Ripsaw. I am still curious about their newer model sliding on a track. Anybody with experience with it ?
Tox

scottr · January 31, 2006, 01:35:53 PM

Quote from: grampt1 on January 31, 2006, 11:27:58 AM
I have had one for about 5 years now and the only problem I have had with it is that I can't seem to cut straight boards consistently. New blades seem to work best but once they get a little dull things go down hill fast and I end up with wavy boards. I have messed with the tension and sharpening the blades but have not had much luck. Spencer seem to have better luck, so I guess it must be that I don't know what I am doing. Wish I would have bought a LT-15

Do you force or push the saw to cut faster ? The next time you tension the band , when the indicator reaches the white line , back off the tension nut 1/2 turn .

grampt1 · February 01, 2006, 10:41:47 AM

Quote from: scottr on January 31, 2006, 01:35:53 PM
Do you force or push the saw to cut faster ? The next time you tension the band , when the indicator reaches the white line , back off the tension nut 1/2 turn .

:

thanks Scottr I have tried different feed rates whith no improvement. I will try the tension adjustment to see if that helps.

toxedo_2000 · February 01, 2006, 07:17:30 PM

On the Ripsaw, the tension IS the problem. We never know if it is good or not. Maybe if I was able to play violin or guitar ....!!!
Tox

scottr · February 03, 2006, 06:31:59 AM

Quote from: toxedo_2000 on February 01, 2006, 07:17:30 PM
On the Ripsaw, the tension IS the problem. We never know if it is good or not. Maybe if I was able to play violin or guitar ....!!!
Tox

Tox , the small ten inch band wheels for the thin band is the only design problem that I've found . I remember a good thread here on FF using a 6" micrometer to set the tension of a band .

toxedo_2000 · February 03, 2006, 10:06:01 AM

Is that possible to retrace that topic ?
Tox

scottr · February 03, 2006, 12:54:54 PM

Quote from: toxedo_2000 on February 03, 2006, 10:06:01 AM
Is that possible to retrace that topic ?
Tox

Tox , you can click on search at the top of the page and maybe try 'band tension' . You'll need to know the band manufacturers specifications . Hakansson sawblades could probably help . Scott

toxedo_2000 · February 03, 2006, 03:37:21 PM

Tanks Scott
Tox

sprucebunny · February 03, 2006, 06:20:06 PM

Here is one thread where ways to measure band tension were discussed ;D

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=7923.msg107757#msg107757

There is a tool used to measure the tension of cables, such as used in sailboat rigging. I'll see if I can find a link to it at a marine supply place.

redbeard · October 14, 2011, 12:53:48 AM

I was going to start a new one but this one answered alot of my questions. A fella came over tonight with some elm logs and he was telling me about his mill, it was a ripsaw and has been having wavy wood problems he has the light weight one with the rails but his has a 2-1/2 hp elect. single phase motor 14 amp. power is not a problem its the thin 3/4 blades deflect to much. he sharpens them with a dremel.But even the new ones from ripsaw don't last long they are only 50 plus inches long and i can see 100 bf would probably be about it. Dose anyone have any updates on this mill other than the 2006 posts.

toxedo_2000 · October 14, 2011, 10:38:30 AM

Hi
I owned a Ripsaw with a chainsaw motor (Sthill), And for a while, I was very satisfy, even if It cost me a lot of sweat!. And I always had the wavy problem after a few hundred feet cut. I think this mill is made only to bring in deep forest, where you cannot pull a real portable mill. Its portability is its worth.
However, I made a lot of material for my remote camp with it.
But don't think to make serious work with it. A couple hundred board/feet a day will be the more you can do, if you work alone . The to small blade is the problem. And you will work a lot for the boards you need!
I always used brand new blades until they brake. Impossible to make a good sharpening on these.
The tension on the blade is a little hard to adjust for a long lasting performance.

[img width=600 --Photos MUST be in the Forestry Forum gallery!!!!!--/img692/306/ripsaw1f.jpg[/img]