Sharpen after retipping Peterson blades?

Snag · January 30, 2007, 07:31:51 AM

Well, I got a retipping from Timberpro last week and gave it a whirl this past weekend. I read the directions and talked things through with Captain before I proceeded. To be honest, I have never used a set of torches in my life. The first few tips just kinda fell off when I touched them.. :

But, things got better and I got the hang of it. I did get the blade seat a little red a couple times cleaning them, but, I guess thats part of the learning curve. Anyway, my question for the Peterson folks, Captain, anyone else doing this, the new tips dont seem all that sharp. Is it common practice to sharpen them before use or do you normally just start sawing. I know I can use my judgement and sharpen if I feel it is necessary. I know that answer is bound to come up, but I am more curious what others do as a common practice with these new tips. It has been almost a year since I got the spankin' new blades from Captain, but I seem to remember them being sharper than my newly tipped.

Fla._Deadheader · January 30, 2007, 09:12:16 AM

Have a Saw Doc down here that does re-tipping. When he's done, the tips have been "trued up" on all sides and sharpened. Blades cut well when I get them back.

scsmith42 · January 30, 2007, 10:33:23 AM

Snag, I second Harold's comment. After you install the tips, you should sharpen them before using. This way you are setting the proper cutting angle on the tip.

Also, typically the alignment on a tip may be a few thousands off due to installation, and sharpening them afterward will provide the proper cutting angles, as installed in your blade.

Scott

Captain · January 30, 2007, 08:19:58 PM

Give them a quick grind, then proceed. They are sharp, but can be sharper

Captain

Nate Surveyor · January 31, 2007, 12:30:44 AM

OK, for the rest of us, what all do you need to buy to re tip the blades?

I have been soldering for a long time, but this is different.

Re-tipping jig,

solder,

Flux,

What else?

And, what are rough prices on this stuff?

Thx

Nate

Captain · January 31, 2007, 06:32:29 AM

Nate and anyone else interested, I'll send you a PM on prices. I don't like to post prices as in ten years when this thread is being read by somebody interested in retipping, the prices are no longer valid.

Retipping is rather economical once you get started, there is a bit of a hurdle to overcome at first financially.

Captain

Snag · January 31, 2007, 07:12:26 AM

It does seem like a bit of money at first, but man, it was nice to retip the blades myself. Bo packaging, shipping, waiting. The thing I like most about it is knowing if I lose one or two tips on a rock that I missed from skidding, I can do the repairs immediately if need be and I dont have to send the blade out when all the other tips may be perfectly fine. The supplies you need other than the jig and tips are flux, silver solder (you dont really need the solder as the tips come with the solder on them already), wire brush, gloves and oxy-acetylene torch. I do plan on using the silver solder to "fix" the tips that didnt bond correctly when I soldered.

brdmkr · January 31, 2007, 07:35:40 AM

Do you need oxy-acetylene or will MAP gas work?

Captain · January 31, 2007, 08:38:41 AM

MAPP is plenty hot enough....

Nate Surveyor · January 31, 2007, 08:42:19 AM

Well, as of this date, (Jan 2007) I get my 10 tooth circle blades re-tipped, and hammered and sharpened for 20 bucks. I think they are using generic tips, and shaping them as per the peterson sheet. They always come back REAL sharp, and coated with rubber smelly tip protectors.

So, for now, I will let them do it. I go to Hot Springs about once a week anyway. They like me, and fix them fast.

I'd like to be able to use a screw gun to change the blades, but the design won't allow me, unless I do it in the horiz. position.

Is anybody else sharpening with the blade VERTICAL?

I want to re-design the sharpening method, so that I can do it like this. Remove the cover, and sit comfortably, and have good natural lighting.

Say, Global warming would be a good thing this morning! Cold!

Nate

Captain · January 31, 2007, 09:02:58 AM

Nate, the newer Peterson mills don't have the easy capability of removing the vertical guard like yours does. The battery and some electrical components on the e-winch models are mounted to it. Lucas sharpens vertically by removing the guard.

Labor is sure cheaper down there in Arkansas. It costs me $20 just to walk into the shop up here.

Captain

Nate Surveyor · January 31, 2007, 10:59:37 AM

OK, Thanks Craig.

If I buy the Peterson ones (or yours) are they pre-shaped, so that I don't have to grind the sides?

Somehow, I think I would have trouble grinding them to shape, without the grinding jigs etc.

Nate