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Author Topic: Home built slabber  (Read 19683 times)

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Offline TexasTimbers

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #20 on: June 20, 2007, 12:38:28 PM »
flip I have not read this thread word for word but you asked if the chain is tightened from the engine end or the roller end - are you putting a stinger or "cheater" bar on it? I am going to on mine even though it will be on a track. The cheater should be adjustable I would think but depending on how you mechanically fasten the bar to the frame or carriage, it too should be adjustable. The bar has elongated holes so it is automatically adjustable eh?

I was plannin to transfer power from the vertical shaft to the horizintal bar with the "belt trick".

I have been meaning to ask Reid if he has noticed excessive sag in his long bar when he cuts slabs on his horizontal slabber. Reid if you see this how much sag do you get on your 72" (?) bar?
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

Offline flip

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #21 on: June 20, 2007, 01:03:54 PM »
After triple re reading all the archives on slabbers, and talking to Bailey's I'm on board with the jack shaft idea.  My plan is to make something that resembles the Lucas dedicated slabber.  I think it would be easier to tension from the roller end of the bar since the jack shaft would have to move or have an adjuster mounted between it and the bar.  The slotted lock down is easy, just a few small wheel studs pushed into a piece of plate steel or aluminum.  Wish I could get some pics. of how lucas and peterson tension.  Bailey's seem to think for that bar combo that 20-25 hp minimum at 3500rpm would work great.

Kev, if you are interested PM me and I'll let you know what I found out from the guys at Bailey's.

Flip
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Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #22 on: June 20, 2007, 01:32:45 PM »
A setup I really like is the rail-o-matic out of the UK.  He comes on the forum from time to time.  Here's the link:  http://www.chainsawmills.co.uk/railomatic.htm

It seems that he has made a cantilever type slabber.  It doesn't have the same reach as the bigger slabbers do, but I wonder if that can't be engineered in.  His capacity is 30" because he is using a chain saw with a 36" blade.

His design is very simple and very portable.  The only thing I wonder is if you went to a larger bar, could you counter balance the weight to keep it cutting straight.  Perhaps a large bar with a vertical shaft motor would give the balance needed. 
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Offline TexasTimbers

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #23 on: June 20, 2007, 08:41:58 PM »
Yes that gives some great ideas. He spent alot of time deigning and patenting and fabricating and chasing down parts suppliers for that thing. Pretty impressive really.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

Offline Part_Timer

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #24 on: June 20, 2007, 10:57:38 PM »
Flip to tighten the chain on on the Peterson you move the center unit to the left and it pulls the chain tight around the drive sprocket.
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Offline Captain

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #25 on: June 21, 2007, 06:50:48 AM »
The sag in a 72" GB bar like the one we use on our slabbers is substantial with just the bar, worse when the weight of the chain is added.   It needs some sort of parallel tensioner to prevent sag and increase stability, it can not "free hang".

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Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #26 on: June 21, 2007, 08:58:23 AM »

 Exactly how tight do you keep the chain ???
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Offline Captain

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #27 on: June 21, 2007, 09:17:00 AM »
It is tensioned similarly to a chain saw, pull it off the bar and you should be able to just see the drive links.

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Offline flip

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #28 on: June 21, 2007, 09:30:28 AM »
Thanks for the info.  Do you feel that the 72" bar is adequate, do you ever run into times when you get to a log and go, "crap I wish I had another 10" of bar".  With a 72" bar what is the actual cut you can get?
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Offline TexasTimbers

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #29 on: June 21, 2007, 11:06:13 AM »
If I ever need more than 72" of bar it will be because I am cutting a tabletop having left the fork in it for effect. I have done that, vertical free handed with a 50". I think Reid has done it free hand with a 72" bar. :o

If I ever need more than a 72" bar for just a trunk, I figure it will mean I imported a log cause I don't think I ever seen one that big around here.
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

Offline flip

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #30 on: June 21, 2007, 12:12:21 PM »
I'm kinda in big tree area for Indiana.  I get some I have to turn down because they are 50" or better and prefer not to rip around on 'em.  It would be nice to cant out a big one and toss it on the band mill and go to town though. ???
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

Offline TexasTimbers

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #31 on: June 21, 2007, 12:19:07 PM »
Well like they say, everything is bigger in . . . . . Indiana. ;D :)
The oil is all in Texas, but the dipsticks are in D.C.

Offline flip

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #32 on: June 21, 2007, 01:00:55 PM »
 :D :D :D :D...The only thing bigger here is my belly :-\
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

Offline flip

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #33 on: June 21, 2007, 03:46:26 PM »
I'm looking here at how many views this thread has and it has occurred to me that someone is going to have to build one and post a LOT of pics.  There seems to be some curiosity here. 
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Offline DanG

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #34 on: June 22, 2007, 03:23:47 PM »
Shucks Flip!  We was waiting for you to build one and post lots of pics. ::)

If you got that long bar, you could mount it at an angle and let it help pull the mill along, like that bandmill that Haytrader got. :P
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
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Offline flip

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #35 on: June 22, 2007, 04:17:22 PM »
I'm going to build build one but I'm trying to source out a used 25 horse engine and figure out which type of track system I want to use- lucas or peterson style.  I think it would be easier to raise the track than to use a carriage type. It will be similar to the peterson dedicated slabber.  72" bar (ala Captain), jack shaft so not to run straight off of the engine and give me some speed adjustment options.  I may be a month or so before I start because of some furniture I've been commissioned to build as well as a computer desk and chest for Lori.  Stay tuned  I'll keep posting here as I obtain parts and start assembling.
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

Offline stevensam

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #36 on: June 24, 2007, 12:21:35 AM »
Hi, I've been reading this topic with some interest as I have just built a 4 stroke chainsaw mill, it's more designed as per a bandmill then a dedicated Lucus/Peterson slabber.  Granted it's still in the development stage but is does cut.  I also have a Procut chainsaw mill (husky 3120) and a Simplesaw homebuilt bandsaw mill, I normally use the Procut to open the log then use the bandsaw mill to do the resawing.

Having 90% of the materials already I decided to build the 17hp briggs chainsaw mill with a 1 meter cut to replace the Procut.  Anyone done milling with a chainsaw knows the drawbacks of the hard work, fumes, slow cut and forever refuelling but the main advantages are low initail cost, portability and ease of sharpening.  I was hoping a 4 stroke mill could possibly counter some of the drawbacks and maintain most of the positives.  So far in the initail stages I would say there isn't much difference in the speed of cut but it takes very little effort to push the saw through the log and you don't get a lung full of fumes  :)

 
The main change I need to make is to swap the drive shaft onto the other side of the carriage as it is cutting on the topside of blade as opposed to the bottom like a chainsaw.  There are more photos in my gallery to look at if interested.
Any questions let me know, Steve.

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #37 on: June 24, 2007, 07:08:44 AM »
I like that setup.  I can see how that could be made into a slabber.  You wouldn't be messing with trying to raise the rails, but you would be lowering the sawhead. 

If you're cutting on the wrong side of the blade, wouldn't it make sense to feed from the opposite direction?
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Offline stevensam

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #38 on: June 24, 2007, 07:25:54 AM »
You're right Ron. Feeding in the opposite direction is the right way but I designed the mill to be raised/lowered and to work the pulley clutch on the side I was working. 

It still cuts fine that way but I did try cutting in the opposite direction as you mentioned  and it did seem to cut faster, or maybe I just thought that  ???   


Offline Part_Timer

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Re: Home built slabber
« Reply #39 on: June 24, 2007, 08:31:55 AM »
Maybe Burlkraft can post a pic of his slabber and how it hooks up.

Very nice chainsaw mill.  That would be tthe ticket for making beams in a hurry
Peterson 8" ATS.
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