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Author Topic: loading portable manual...  (Read 8479 times)

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Offline joshua5

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loading portable manual...
« on: April 13, 2003, 09:16:26 AM »
newbie here and i must say - wow, this is a great site!!  friend of mine and i have a custom ripsaw band with a 22" throat capacity.  it's slow, but a ton of fun!  unfortunately i've been infected and as soon as the school loans are paid off (many years), i may just wind up buying something a little easier/faster.  done a lot of research on the lt15, norwood, and timberking 1220.  enough history...

i have a question - if you have a manual bandmill with the trailer package, how do you get the log onto the bed of the mill?  it lowers and the wheels come off the trailer?  you have to saw with 47 of your closest friends to get the log up on the bed?  thanks for your replys.

Offline ohsoloco

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #1 on: April 13, 2003, 09:57:56 AM »
I just slide the wheels out of the axle on my Norwood.  The rails are now pretty close to the ground...maybe a foot high?  At first I used slabs and 4x4's as ramps, but then found some sign posts lying around on top of an old lumber pile in the yard.  I doubled them up and use two sets of these as my ramps....the angle I roll the log up is very low, and the "ramps" have already supported a two ton log I rolled up.

Offline ohsoloco

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #2 on: April 13, 2003, 09:59:04 AM »
Josh, according to your profile you're from PA...what part?

biziedizie

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #3 on: April 13, 2003, 10:02:56 AM »
ohsoloco can ya post a pic of your ramp. I'm doing it the hard way and need a better way to do it.

   Steve

Offline ohsoloco

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #4 on: April 13, 2003, 10:46:15 AM »
It's not much of a ramp...it's still the hard way  :D   I actually stripped off a few inches of soil where my mill sits, so that it sits a little lower.  When I want to load a log I pick up a pair of the sign posts that are stacked together, set one end on the ground and one end on the rail, then grap the other and do the same.  Log loaded, put the "ramps" aside till the next log.  

These sign posts look like this in cross section:

    _/`````````\_


Offline joshua5

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #5 on: April 13, 2003, 06:31:02 PM »
ohsoloco, i live in berks county, about an hour west of philly.  if there are any norwood, timberking 1220, or LT15 users in the area, i'd love to do some free grunt work and observation for a day or two!  

rolling a two ton log up a ramp sounds a little intimidating... ok, a lot intimidating.

Offline Tom

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #6 on: April 13, 2003, 06:47:10 PM »
A lot of the non-hydraulic bandmills with trailer packages use ramps.  Sometimes the ramp equates to dragging the logs onto a hill and put the saw at a lower elevation. That way a vehicle can get the log above the mill.  It is a technique used by a lot of coffee pot circle mills too.  They build a mound up higher than their carriage.

Another way is to use a backhoe, front-end loader or chain-fall attached to a strong limb above the mill.

When the ramps are the only thing available then a cable or rope looped under the log and attached to a power source on the other side of the mill will allow the log to be rolled up the ramp without much human intervention.  The power source may be a car, truck, tractor, winch(even manual), or several big fellows pulling on the rope.

Where there's a will, there's a way. :D
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Online Jeff

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2003, 06:49:18 PM »
Dont some of the ramps available have jackdogs built in? As you roll the log up, the dogs pop up to keep the log from rolling back?
Just call me the midget doctor.
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Offline Tom

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #8 on: April 13, 2003, 06:53:48 PM »
Yep, That keeps the log from rolling back but it doesn't help too much with the rolling up part. :D

It does let you get another bite with your cant hook though.

Oh!  I forgot!   Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Joshua. :)
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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #9 on: April 13, 2003, 06:55:17 PM »
Here is a picture of Kevins L-15 and ramps

He has more pictures on his sawmill webpage
http://www3.sympatico.ca/kvn.rob/LT-15.html
Just call me the midget doctor.
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Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life.

Offline Kevin

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #10 on: April 13, 2003, 07:09:34 PM »
I've been using a hookaroon on most logs with those ramps and it's not difficult to walk the logs up the ramps.

Offline Tom

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #11 on: April 13, 2003, 07:11:15 PM »
I hear tell, if you infuse the log with alcohol, it makes it light headed and easy to lift. :D
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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #12 on: April 13, 2003, 07:17:43 PM »
Tom, You need to stop drinking that hard lemonade.
Just call me the midget doctor.
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Offline joshua5

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #13 on: April 13, 2003, 07:29:49 PM »
kevin, when you say it's not too bad with a hookaroon, you mean when working by yourself, correct?  

what's the longest lever arm on a hookaroon you can get?  i could stand to gain a few pounds and would probably need a large lever arm.  

i've never used a saw while drinking hard lemonade but if you say it'll help tom, i guess i've gotta give it a try.

thanks all.

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #14 on: April 13, 2003, 07:34:58 PM »
A hookaroon does not work on leverage like a peavey or a cant hook. Its a more simple tool that looks kinda like an axe with a hook that can be swung at and hooked into the log end to pull it.
Just call me the midget doctor.
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Offline Kevin

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #15 on: April 13, 2003, 08:00:23 PM »
If you purchase a hookaroon for the first time make sure of your footing, you can take a pretty good staggering , stumbling , uncalculated backwards header.

Offline Moulder

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #16 on: April 13, 2003, 08:04:06 PM »
Josh, I also have a Lumbermate,I broke down and bought the log rolling package,I did'nt want to spend the money but I have to admint I'm totally happy with it.Did [3] 18" 12' cherry tree logs yesterday yes it is slow but I was bacially able to load them by myself and had enough energy left to eat dinner that night. If I had to do over again I would . RP
RANDY

Offline chet

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #17 on: April 13, 2003, 08:50:24 PM »
I attached a boat winch to a 5' section of 31/2 x 31/2, and loaded the winch with light cable. I made pockets out of 4 x  4 tube and attached them to the rails, spaced so they would be in the center of 8', 12' & 16' logs. I made 2 temporary  5' ramps from 4x4 elm, with small notches cut in the end so they won't slide up the mill when winching. The ramps work so well i havn't bothered to come up with anything else.  
Small logs we will just roll up the ramps. Larger ones I put the winch in the aproprite pocket, run the cable over the center of the log, under it, and back attaching the cable back to the winch post. This way the log will roll, rather than be pulled up the ramps. I have loaded 36" whitepine very easily myself with this setup,      the tuff part is flipping the big cants.       For me working with the mill up off the ground is a lot more comfortable.  
I am a true TREE HUGGER, if I didnt I would fall out!  chet the arborist

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #18 on: April 13, 2003, 08:58:16 PM »
I've rolled a 16' log that was 26" in dia using the peavy and it was a breaze, I just used two 8' 4x4s to roll it up on the mill. Now the big danger is if the thing was to roll back on me I would be dead!
 After seeing the pic of Kevin's  ramp with the spring loaded fingers I now have an idea as to what I'm going to build now. I'm sure glad to see that pic as I've been banging my head against the wall trying to think of an idea. I do have a tractor but when it rains the seat gets wet and I always forget and sit in a puddle :D So on rainy days I do it with the peavy and I don't mind it one bit.
 
 Moulder if you have a pic or two of your log loader I'm sure there's a few people here that would like to see them. :)

    Steve

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #19 on: April 13, 2003, 09:12:37 PM »
I've rolled some big logs up to my mill and didn't even break a sweat.  Used a couple of cant hooks and two young farm boys that were taught not to challenge an elder. :D :D
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Offline ohsoloco

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #20 on: April 14, 2003, 09:02:22 AM »
Josh, I have a Norwood here in Centre County.  Feel free to stop by sometime to check things out.   I'll have to put in an order with the tree service for another two ton log so you can see how it's loaded  :D

Offline Moulder

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #21 on: April 14, 2003, 04:16:01 PM »
Steve, I'm doing good to get this internet thing figured out,so I will tackle pictures later.That said the description that Chet has given of his loader sounds alot like what Norwood has with the difference on the ramps which go from the bed rails to the ground. About 2/3rds of the way up the ramps have rollers which allow to postion the logs length wise along the bunks. Chet's way was probably a lot cheaper than the way I went.RP
RANDY

Offline chet

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #22 on: April 14, 2003, 07:16:48 PM »
I probably have about $150.00 into my loading system. I don't have the rollers on my ramps though. After the log is started up the ramps I simply use my canthook as a lever and lift one end of the log to better aim it to where I want it, if needed.  With the cable supporting the log in the middle it is rather easy to reposition the log.
I am a true TREE HUGGER, if I didnt I would fall out!  chet the arborist

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2003, 07:19:41 AM »
I have a Norwood I built what sounds like the same thing. I have a manual winch mounted to a sq tube the fits into a square tube underneath the saw. I built ramps that have a flat section that acts as a table for holding big slabs that I kick off while qtr sawing. My ramps have two 1" bolts that fit into the hole in the side of the tracks I can tighten them but I have never needed to do so. I will try and post a picture soon. I have rolled on some 30" white oak logs with no trouble. I make sure I never get between the log and anything else just in case something breaks. I am working on a floating bunk to cut short logs now. Norwood makes it real hard to cut anything shorter then 4' but I think I just about have that solved.
I owe I owe so its off to work I go....

Offline ohsoloco

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #24 on: April 15, 2003, 08:31:18 AM »
When I cut crotches that are less than 4 ft. long, I usually put down a couple of spare 4x4's across the bunks to set the crotch on.  Clamping it becomes the hard part  ???

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #25 on: April 15, 2003, 08:50:44 AM »
I agree with the clamping part. I built a temp sled that fits over the two bunks but getting a solid clamp on the log can be a problem. I am going to use a double screw setup that will drop into the log holder that already is on the mill. I may have to build a floating log dog to go along with the one that is on the mill already to get a rock solid lock on the log. I need to get some more logs I am running out  :'(
I owe I owe so its off to work I go....

Offline burlman

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #26 on: April 19, 2003, 05:32:23 PM »
when I bought my Enercraft, the hydraulic package wasn't even invented yet. So I've always loaded my mill with the old reliable armstrong loader. I usually use some heavy hardwood  planks and a reliable cant hook. I always cut a block of wood that I slide up the plank as a brake incase the hook should slip. If it is a job involving big logs I bring my Lewis chain saw winch along and roll them up with it. As for chet's comment on turning big cants, I have a removable post and hand winch mounted on the center of the mill on the same side as the canting posts. On the end of the cable I installed a bill hook from a spare cant hook, I pull out the cable over the log/cant, around it and dog the bill into the top side of the log/cant. Then simply crank it up and around she goes, I turned a 30 in white oak 20ft. long with no strain on my back at all. good luck...burlman...

Offline joshua5

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #27 on: April 19, 2003, 06:37:39 PM »
thanks for the many replies!  the whole winch thing - especially if it's a crank winch (i.e. boat trailers) sounds good to me.  i like the fact that it's cheaper than the elec winches and you don't have to worry about running power cables.  used a winch several times with my dad when i was younger and went 4 wheeling.  we always put something on the line to weight it down while winching just in case the line snapped.  does anyone do this?  i've never seen a line snap.  never heard of anyone having a line snap.  still, paranoid.  getting cut in half could inhibit a good day of sawing.  interested in your thoughts...

Offline Mesquite Man

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #28 on: April 19, 2003, 11:40:21 PM »
I own a TimberKing 1220 and thoroughly love it.  I did not buy the transport package, however.  The manufacturer specifically requires that the transport package be removed before using the mill.  I believe that is the same with most small mills?

Anyway, here is how I load logs.  It is a LOT OF WORK:)



Sitruc
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Curtis O. Seebeck
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Offline solidwoods

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #29 on: April 20, 2003, 05:36:48 AM »
I have used a Kasco IIB for 10yr. I would recommend it for certain sawmill business models.  About 5" off the ground. Elec head up/dn and feed.
Have you seen     https://sawmill-exchange.com/for_sale.htm
They sell used mill equip.

Getting around a big log, trying to roll it up an incline is not good at all (to say the least).

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If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
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Offline Tom

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #30 on: April 20, 2003, 08:10:18 PM »
8)
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biziedizie

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #31 on: April 20, 2003, 08:51:42 PM »
joshua5 putting weight on the line is the right thing to do. I've been 4 wheeling for many years and I've seen cables snap. Sure isn't a pretty sight to see the damage that can happen when they let go.
 Even seen one go that only had a jacket on the line and it stopped the cable dead in it's tracks.
 Alot of guys don't insect their cables and that's why they snap.

   Steve

Offline ohsoloco

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #32 on: April 20, 2003, 10:00:16 PM »
I'm glad we're on the topic of cables snapping, cuz I've been thinking about replacing the cable on my 9000lb Superwinch that I load logs with.  The current cable is the original, and on the end where the hook goes, it almost looks like a cast "clamp" that holds the cable at the end where the hook fastens.  When I replace the cable, what should I hold the "loop" in the cable with?  A cable clamp....if so, should I use more than one?  I don't know if the replacement cables that Superwinch sells have this loop in them, but I'd like to buy a cable locally since they're much cheaper.  

biziedizie

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #33 on: April 20, 2003, 10:10:13 PM »
loco if I was you I wouldn't use a cable clamp but if you do put 3 on then wrap the cable back over the clamps and then clamp it again.
 If you buy new it will come with the loop.
 Did you ever figuire out the problems you were having with your sharpener?

  Steve

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #34 on: April 21, 2003, 05:17:00 AM »
Whenever I have a cable with no loop on the end, I cut the end so it is not bent and spreadout, then CAREFULLY seperate the cable into two equal halves, untwisting it, for about 8-10 inches. Then you can cross the ends and start to retwist it to make it "lay" back together. Be careful to not BEND the two parts, just lay them as they will flow. Once you get the loop completed, cut the center core, (wire or rope), and lay the ends evenly over the outside of the main cable. 1 clamp will then hold it better than a gob of clamps that always get in the way OR snag yer hide .

 This is really simple to do. If needed, I could give a "pitcher lesson". I have done from 1/8th to 5/8ths size. When I worked for the power company, we would slide a compression sleeve onto the cable first, and then "crimp" the sleeve over the tails for a loop eggzackly like factory! ;D ;D :D
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Offline ohsoloco

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #35 on: April 21, 2003, 10:07:05 AM »
I think I need pitchers to 'splain it to me  ;)

Offline Tom

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #36 on: April 21, 2003, 10:22:38 AM »
That's how I used to make Shark fishing leaders, Dead Header.  After I over-layed the upper part of the loop, I would wrap it in 3-5 layers of masking tape.  Once Masking tape gets wet it doesn't come loose. It makes a smoothe covering. My leaders would last for  years.  I used 3/16 and was lucky to get a spoiled reel of SS BT cable while lin the Navy. Still have a little around here somewhere. :D
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Offline Mark M

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Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #37 on: May 12, 2003, 09:53:26 AM »
I posted a few pictures of the log loader I made for my Norwood saw. I can also mount my Lewis Wench to this arm since it is made of 2" reciever tubing. I'll post a picture of this later.

The big pictures are  Here




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