The Forestry Forum is sponsored in part by:

AVAILABLE


Forestry Forum
Sponsored by:


TimberKing Sawmills



Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools



Norwood Industries Inc.


Sawmill & Woodlot Magazine



Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

STIHLDealers.com sponsored by Northeast STIHL


Woodland Sawmills

Peterson Swingmills

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades

Turbosawmill

Sawmill Exchange

BRUTE FORCE Authorized Dealer

Woodshax Outdoor Vending Solutions

FARMA


Council Tool

Baker Products

ECHO-Bearcat



Author Topic: loading portable manual...  (Read 8476 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline ohsoloco

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 2044
  • Age: 43
  • Location: Bellefonte, PA
  • Gender: Male
  • Can we stay outside and play in the sawdust?
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #20 on: April 14, 2003, 09:02:22 AM »
Josh, I have a Norwood here in Centre County.  Feel free to stop by sometime to check things out.   I'll have to put in an order with the tree service for another two ton log so you can see how it's loaded  :D

Offline Moulder

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 32
  • Age: 60
  • Gender: Male
  • I need to edit my profile!
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #21 on: April 14, 2003, 04:16:01 PM »
Steve, I'm doing good to get this internet thing figured out,so I will tackle pictures later.That said the description that Chet has given of his loader sounds alot like what Norwood has with the difference on the ramps which go from the bed rails to the ground. About 2/3rds of the way up the ramps have rollers which allow to postion the logs length wise along the bunks. Chet's way was probably a lot cheaper than the way I went.RP
RANDY

Offline chet

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Posts: 8316
  • Age: 64
  • Location: Land of da YOOPERS Iron River, MI
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #22 on: April 14, 2003, 07:16:48 PM »
I probably have about $150.00 into my loading system. I don't have the rollers on my ramps though. After the log is started up the ramps I simply use my canthook as a lever and lift one end of the log to better aim it to where I want it, if needed.  With the cable supporting the log in the middle it is rather easy to reposition the log.
I am a true TREE HUGGER, if I didnt I would fall out!  chet the arborist

Offline SW_IOWA_SAWYER

  • Full Member x2
  • ***
  • Posts: 134
  • Age: 58
  • Gender: Male
  • I see I saw I stack
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #23 on: April 15, 2003, 07:19:41 AM »
I have a Norwood I built what sounds like the same thing. I have a manual winch mounted to a sq tube the fits into a square tube underneath the saw. I built ramps that have a flat section that acts as a table for holding big slabs that I kick off while qtr sawing. My ramps have two 1" bolts that fit into the hole in the side of the tracks I can tighten them but I have never needed to do so. I will try and post a picture soon. I have rolled on some 30" white oak logs with no trouble. I make sure I never get between the log and anything else just in case something breaks. I am working on a floating bunk to cut short logs now. Norwood makes it real hard to cut anything shorter then 4' but I think I just about have that solved.
I owe I owe so its off to work I go....

Offline ohsoloco

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 2044
  • Age: 43
  • Location: Bellefonte, PA
  • Gender: Male
  • Can we stay outside and play in the sawdust?
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #24 on: April 15, 2003, 08:31:18 AM »
When I cut crotches that are less than 4 ft. long, I usually put down a couple of spare 4x4's across the bunks to set the crotch on.  Clamping it becomes the hard part  ???

Offline SW_IOWA_SAWYER

  • Full Member x2
  • ***
  • Posts: 134
  • Age: 58
  • Gender: Male
  • I see I saw I stack
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #25 on: April 15, 2003, 08:50:44 AM »
I agree with the clamping part. I built a temp sled that fits over the two bunks but getting a solid clamp on the log can be a problem. I am going to use a double screw setup that will drop into the log holder that already is on the mill. I may have to build a floating log dog to go along with the one that is on the mill already to get a rock solid lock on the log. I need to get some more logs I am running out  :'(
I owe I owe so its off to work I go....

Offline burlman

  • Full Member x2
  • ***
  • Posts: 114
  • Age: 57
  • Gender: Male
  • I need to edit my profile!
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #26 on: April 19, 2003, 05:32:23 PM »
when I bought my Enercraft, the hydraulic package wasn't even invented yet. So I've always loaded my mill with the old reliable armstrong loader. I usually use some heavy hardwood  planks and a reliable cant hook. I always cut a block of wood that I slide up the plank as a brake incase the hook should slip. If it is a job involving big logs I bring my Lewis chain saw winch along and roll them up with it. As for chet's comment on turning big cants, I have a removable post and hand winch mounted on the center of the mill on the same side as the canting posts. On the end of the cable I installed a bill hook from a spare cant hook, I pull out the cable over the log/cant, around it and dog the bill into the top side of the log/cant. Then simply crank it up and around she goes, I turned a 30 in white oak 20ft. long with no strain on my back at all. good luck...burlman...

Offline joshua5

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 13
  • I need to edit my profile!
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #27 on: April 19, 2003, 06:37:39 PM »
thanks for the many replies!  the whole winch thing - especially if it's a crank winch (i.e. boat trailers) sounds good to me.  i like the fact that it's cheaper than the elec winches and you don't have to worry about running power cables.  used a winch several times with my dad when i was younger and went 4 wheeling.  we always put something on the line to weight it down while winching just in case the line snapped.  does anyone do this?  i've never seen a line snap.  never heard of anyone having a line snap.  still, paranoid.  getting cut in half could inhibit a good day of sawing.  interested in your thoughts...

Offline Mesquite Man

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 38
  • Age: 51
  • Gender: Male
  • Learning as I go!
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #28 on: April 19, 2003, 11:40:21 PM »
I own a TimberKing 1220 and thoroughly love it.  I did not buy the transport package, however.  The manufacturer specifically requires that the transport package be removed before using the mill.  I believe that is the same with most small mills?

Anyway, here is how I load logs.  It is a LOT OF WORK:)



Sitruc
"Mesquite Man"
Curtis O. Seebeck
TimberKing 1220

Offline solidwoods

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 490
  • Age: 59
  • Location: N. Central TN, Fentress Co.
  • Gender: Male
  • Best way to make the most money with a portable mill is to cut the least lumber you can.
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #29 on: April 20, 2003, 05:36:48 AM »
I have used a Kasco IIB for 10yr. I would recommend it for certain sawmill business models.  About 5" off the ground. Elec head up/dn and feed.
Have you seen     https://sawmill-exchange.com/for_sale.htm
They sell used mill equip.

Getting around a big log, trying to roll it up an incline is not good at all (to say the least).

JIM
Ret. US Army
Kasco II B Band mill
Woodworking since 83
I mill & kiln dry lumber, build custom furniture, artworks, flooring, etc.
If you mill, you'll be interested in some of my work in one way or another.
We ship from our showroom.
N. Central TN.

Offline Tom

  • In Memoriam
  • *
  • Posts: 25854
  • Age: 75
  • Location: Jacksonville, Florida
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
    • Toms Saw
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #30 on: April 20, 2003, 08:10:18 PM »
8)
extinct

biziedizie

  • Guest
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #31 on: April 20, 2003, 08:51:42 PM »
joshua5 putting weight on the line is the right thing to do. I've been 4 wheeling for many years and I've seen cables snap. Sure isn't a pretty sight to see the damage that can happen when they let go.
 Even seen one go that only had a jacket on the line and it stopped the cable dead in it's tracks.
 Alot of guys don't insect their cables and that's why they snap.

   Steve

Offline ohsoloco

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 2044
  • Age: 43
  • Location: Bellefonte, PA
  • Gender: Male
  • Can we stay outside and play in the sawdust?
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #32 on: April 20, 2003, 10:00:16 PM »
I'm glad we're on the topic of cables snapping, cuz I've been thinking about replacing the cable on my 9000lb Superwinch that I load logs with.  The current cable is the original, and on the end where the hook goes, it almost looks like a cast "clamp" that holds the cable at the end where the hook fastens.  When I replace the cable, what should I hold the "loop" in the cable with?  A cable clamp....if so, should I use more than one?  I don't know if the replacement cables that Superwinch sells have this loop in them, but I'd like to buy a cable locally since they're much cheaper.  

biziedizie

  • Guest
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #33 on: April 20, 2003, 10:10:13 PM »
loco if I was you I wouldn't use a cable clamp but if you do put 3 on then wrap the cable back over the clamps and then clamp it again.
 If you buy new it will come with the loop.
 Did you ever figuire out the problems you were having with your sharpener?

  Steve

Offline Fla._Deadheader

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 10388
  • Age: 75
  • Gender: Male
  • Linda Vista, Costa Rica
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #34 on: April 21, 2003, 05:17:00 AM »
Whenever I have a cable with no loop on the end, I cut the end so it is not bent and spreadout, then CAREFULLY seperate the cable into two equal halves, untwisting it, for about 8-10 inches. Then you can cross the ends and start to retwist it to make it "lay" back together. Be careful to not BEND the two parts, just lay them as they will flow. Once you get the loop completed, cut the center core, (wire or rope), and lay the ends evenly over the outside of the main cable. 1 clamp will then hold it better than a gob of clamps that always get in the way OR snag yer hide .

 This is really simple to do. If needed, I could give a "pitcher lesson". I have done from 1/8th to 5/8ths size. When I worked for the power company, we would slide a compression sleeve onto the cable first, and then "crimp" the sleeve over the tails for a loop eggzackly like factory! ;D ;D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Offline ohsoloco

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 2044
  • Age: 43
  • Location: Bellefonte, PA
  • Gender: Male
  • Can we stay outside and play in the sawdust?
    • Share Post
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #35 on: April 21, 2003, 10:07:05 AM »
I think I need pitchers to 'splain it to me  ;)

Offline Tom

  • In Memoriam
  • *
  • Posts: 25854
  • Age: 75
  • Location: Jacksonville, Florida
  • Gender: Male
    • Share Post
    • Toms Saw
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #36 on: April 21, 2003, 10:22:38 AM »
That's how I used to make Shark fishing leaders, Dead Header.  After I over-layed the upper part of the loop, I would wrap it in 3-5 layers of masking tape.  Once Masking tape gets wet it doesn't come loose. It makes a smoothe covering. My leaders would last for  years.  I used 3/16 and was lucky to get a spoiled reel of SS BT cable while lin the Navy. Still have a little around here somewhere. :D
extinct

Offline Mark M

  • In Memoriam
  • *
  • Posts: 1688
  • Age: 64
  • Gender: Male
  • Wilton, ND
    • Share Post
    • Some of My Pictures
Re: loading portable manual...
« Reply #37 on: May 12, 2003, 09:53:26 AM »
I posted a few pictures of the log loader I made for my Norwood saw. I can also mount my Lewis Wench to this arm since it is made of 2" reciever tubing. I'll post a picture of this later.

The big pictures are  Here




Share via delicious Share via digg Share via facebook Share via linkedin Share via pinterest Share via reddit Share via stumble Share via tumblr Share via twitter

xx
Manual Log Loading

Started by bitrrtrbill on Sawmills and Milling

17 Replies
1950 Views
Last post December 23, 2016, 01:45:34 PM
by reride82
xx
Manual Log loading

Started by losttheplot on Sawmills and Milling

20 Replies
3707 Views
Last post October 14, 2012, 07:23:21 PM
by drobertson
xx
portable milling with a manual mill ?

Started by board on Sawmills and Milling

20 Replies
1358 Views
Last post March 01, 2014, 11:45:07 AM
by Chuck White
xx
John Deere shop manual, operators manual, and brochure.

Started by Piston on For Sale

8 Replies
1549 Views
Last post March 09, 2014, 10:59:32 AM
by Piston
 


Powered by EzPortal