So, I am a novice wood hunter

[bowlofjokes]

I've spent some time this year scavenging left over trees from cleared subdivisions and state road maintenance.
I have been using a Homelite 16in 33cc (Maybe $130 at the Depot) and it has been a hassle. As a novice, I assume it has to do that I am using the improper tool for cutting; an under powered chainsaw. Which in turn dulls the chain quickly. Yesterday we scored some felled Black Cherry and Red Oak from last year. I do this so I can feed my wood stove and not burn an once of oil. I do this because I like to be self sufficient and save money as I am a continuing eduction student. 8 cords is pretty good to get me from November into March (10 is safer bet). Everything is split by hand year round. So, that is a little background.
If I am going to continue this I really need to invest in a better chain saw, for safety and time savings. I am also considering contacting someone to just drop of the limbed trees, if price is right.

Am I the only one feeling the energy squeeze to do this? And does anyone else follow this practice I do? Wood Hunting.

                                                                              Thanks for reading
                                                                                      poor Graduate student       

[Tom]

Your saw might do a good job of limbing, but you would be happier with a saw approaching 4 cubic inches when it comes to some constant cutting of fair sized trunks.  You might recruit a custom sawyer in your area too, if you are getting any cherry or other logs that will make good lumber.  It's a shame to burn a potential piece of living room furniture.

[sawguy21]

Welcome aboard. Pull up a stump and grab a coffee. It sounds like you are not afraid of a day of hard work. The wood you are cutting is probably full of dirt from being pushed around by a bull dozer. That is tough on bars and chains.
As Tom says, it would be tough for him as a sawyer to see furniture quality wood go into the stove but if that is what you need and don't have a mill, so be it.

[Sprucegum]

Your saw is only under-powered when the chain is dull. There are several good threads here about sharpening chains (practice is the key). Carrying spare chains so you can quickly change when your saw starts to bog down will also ease your frustration.
If any of your finds are sawlog quality you may be able to trade them to a sawyer for firewood already cut.

If you are cutting and splitting 10 cords a year you deserve a new saw   ;) a good one is gonna cost ya  :(

[bowlofjokes]

Let me add that I live in Connecticut. Wood prices are about $190-$225 for truely seasoned delivered cords. A few years ago I could score it at $125. Oh, the good old days.

Tom, I would not no of a mill, but to ease your concerns that Red Cherry had already been cut into 14-18in pieces and been sitting for about a year. Maybe it could have been turned into a nicknak. haha Most of what we grab is Red Oak, some maple and Locust (?)

I'm thinking at these prices, the investment of a $400-$500 saw would seem a wise choice. When I get to those butts that are unhuggable in size. I break out the maul and pins and slit it into 4ft lengths or so. Then tackle it with the saw. I would prefer to cut down on my aging process however. I would like to keep the homelite for just my small 2 acre yard work, and purchase a 18in with enough power to cut throught these logs. I have a local husq dealer and I think a Stihl the town over. I guess what I am asking is. Am I correct that my underpoewered saw is dulling the chain prematurely?
I see a lot of love for the 50cc catagory. I have no immediate plans of felling trees as  I have no experience in doing so.    

[beenthere]

An underpowered saw will not dull the chain prematurely.  Dirt and touching the ground will do that.

You can find a better excuse for buying a bigger saw... ;D ;D

Welcome to the forum.

[bowlofjokes]

My reply didn't go through. Maybe shouldn't be here with Firefox browser.

I was cutting for about 10 minutes with a newly sharpened (by dealer) chain, the thing bogged down.
I hit no ground or dirt. There was so much friction the butt end turned black, so I stopped cutting.
How could I tell if my bar is damaged (did pinch it in tree this summer twice) or if it is worn. Could a bad bar wear out the chain that fast?
I feel like I'm missing something here. You guys can't be swapping chains every 10 minutes.
What else could cause such fast wear on the chain?

[beenthere]

Well, hard on this end to now understand just what you are referring to here...if you say the chain is dull, then I would interpret that to mean the cutters are not sharp anymore...which comes from striking something other than wood...be it dirt/stones in the bark or the tip touched the ground (and just a touch is all it takes).  Most of us have seen the guy who has to finish each cut through to the ground...and they don't recognize that it dulls the teeth and keep on trying to force the saw to cut.

Now you indicate the bar may be damaged.  Pictures of what you see black on the butt end (I'm only guessing what you mean here but think it must be the bar turning black near the saw end). That needs some checking into. Your dealer should be able to help you real quick, if he has any chainsaw experience (all of them don't). Pinching in a tree may cause damage to the bar, and one way to tell is if you can easily move the chain in the bar groove by hand, with brake off and saw not running, but the chain adjusted correctly.
More to think about...   Someone will be able to help you dig out the problem, just don't give up on us.  ;D

I swap chains out about every 5-6 tankfuls of gas, and that many touch-up sharpenings.  (unless something major happens, like a rock, or metal).

[bowlofjokes]

I dream of only needing to change the chain every 5-6 refills. I can't get through 1 fill.
I accept as a novice 1/2 the responsibility with chain destruction. The other half is something else. I can only laugh. Maybe I wasn't cut out for this kinda work. 
I will break down and see what local dealer has to say.
Will have to wait till my will is stronger though, because I know he will have me looking at all those nice husq's on the wall.
At least now I know I'm not crazy and something is wrong with the saw and or my knowledge of its use. 

[Tom]

A lot of first time users will "crowd" the saw until the engine stalls.  This is were a bigger saw comes in handy.  Forcing the saw only wears stuff out quickly.  You shouldn't have to do much more than let the saw sit in the wood and keep a little tension on it with the bucking spikes.  Trying to make it cut like a bigger saw by putting a lot of pressure on it will stretch chains and wear the bar too.

Oiling is important.  It might be wasteful, but I don't think you can get too much oil on the bar.

[bowlofjokes]

Thanks for all input.
I did feel like I was forcing the saw today. Like I said earlier, the butt end of the piece I was cutting (the wood) turned black from heat/friction with a 10 minute old sharpened blade. It is possible the dealer is worse at sharpening than I am too.
I would like to learn how to manage and use a chainsaw properly; I am also resigned to the idea that I am not quite cut out for this type of work. Hey, we aren't all born with the same skill sets and mine has never been mechanics of machinery.
As I reflect back on when I started having problems, it seems to be after I pinched my saw in a felled tree a couple/few times 
this past summer. Maybe all I need to do is change my bar or something. It is a cheaper fix than a new killer saw. Also, after swinging at some locust today, maybe I should leave this to the pro's. That red oak is one thing, the locust is a triple swing and a half.     

[beenthere]

Are you getting some pics posted in your gallery? 
Now you indicate the burn is on the wood, and not the bar?  This is getting more intriguing at each post.. ;D ;D   Don't let us just dangle here without giving more info..

[Furby]

Green/fresh oak will stain from contact with the bar/steel.

[solodan]

My guess is the grove on the bar has been pinched. Or perhaps your oiler is not working.
It is real easy to get a chip of wood in the oil res, and stop the flow. An overheated bar and chain that is pretty tight, will bind up in its own grove even, don't ask me how I know. :D Yes, I have run a saw without oil in the res. :-\ A new chain and a properly sized bar in good condition will cut great on any brand saw, even a small homeowners saw. Though a new saw would be nice and probably save you alot more frustration, I still think that you can fix the problem you are having with your current saw. 

[Sprucegum]

I have a Homelite Bandit chainsaw(about 10 years old) that has always given me trouble as far as oiling. When I change the chain I must make sure the groove is very clean and the little hole where the oil goes into the bar is very clean. Even then I let the chain tension stay looser than recomended by the dealer. When I lift the chain I can see daylight under the drivers, any tighter and I loose power as soon as the saw warms up.

[mburrow]

does the saw have the chain that came with it?
I also have a small Homelite about 10 years old and the chain that came with it would dull quickly but not as fast as you say yours does. a few months ago I decided to put a new chain on it, a Oregon 91SG and it was like a different saw. it will now out cut the little Husky 36 I have. these are just small homeowners saws if I need to really do some sawing I use my Homelite Super XL 925 or the 394 Husky

[bowlofjokes]

I didn't realize I had a gallery to post in. I will get to it after the holiday as it is freezing rain out there and not suppose to let up as rain till Friday. I need to explore this place a little more. I have all sort of questions on identification, splitting, jargon, wood stoves.  But, I should really be completing a research paper on Domestic Violence. I study Marriage and Family Therapy. This more "manly" type stuff is my Zen time.
Thanks for all the support so far.

I have the original chain and a swap out. I've sharpened them both with a file-n-guide, and had the dealer do it once too. Last time I cut there was oil bubbling at the tip of the bar. So it is getting there, but with under stress. 

[rbhunter]

Careful with this forum. It is more interesting than the college research. I find myself clicking on here at times to take a break. Sometimes more than I should.

Also does the homelite have a place on the tip to grease the bar?

Randy

[DanG]

Welcome to the forum, Bowl!  I'm gonna do something unusual here...send you to Lowes. : :-[  Look in the chainsaw section and you'll find a bunch of packages with new bar and chain sets for about 20 bucks or so.  Each package lists the saws they will fit.  The package also tells you the size(pitch) of the chain.  Pick up a couple of files while you're there.  Their package will tell you what pitch they are for, so you can be sure you have the right ones.  If this new setup solves the problem, you'll know the old ones were causing your troubles.  If not, you'll know that you were causing it. ;)  The worst that can happen is, you'll have a spare bar and chain for your saw.

Next thing, look around on this board and read some of the threads on sharpening chains.  Read and heed.  Keep your teeth sharp and your rakers filed and you'll be a happy camper!  Happy campers are much less prone to domestic violence, too.  Maybe you can work the firewood cutting into your thesis. : :D

[bowlofjokes]

The Homelite does have a place on the tip to grease, whether it is there for the chain or that sprocket at he end of the bar I don't know. I'm guessing the chain & bar oil travels from the reservoir through the bar to that small hole at the tip.

I find visiting here between studying aids in a more holistic learning process ;D

I used to think the chainsaw was the most dangerous tool in the arsenal. Then I put one of those sawtooth blades on a weed wacker. Now that is a wild tool.

 

[rbhunter]

There is a special grease gun for the hole in the tip and the grease is for the sprocket. I grease mine every other fill up. I am somewhat of a novice also so maybe someone else on here can tell us what is actually recommended for greasing the sprocket.

Randy

[Engineer]

So let's summarize:  chain dulls after ten minutes and it becomes a workout, saw binds and wood burns in cut, you are trying to get 8-10 cords a year for heat and you're frustrated.

This could be any number of problems.  Saw should be checked thoroughly for proper oil feed to bar, make sure sprocket is well greased and turning freely, chain should be sharp and rakers filed so that you get a proper depth of cut, make sure bar is not pinched, bent or otherwise impeding your chain travel, make sure chain is at proper tension (too tight will definitely cause problems, too loose is dangerous).

Once you've ruled out the saw as the culprit, check the wood.  Even the tiniest bit of crud will dull a chain.  Cutting black locust will quickly dull a chain.  Cutting older wood that had already been chunked up and left to dry for a year is much harder on a saw than cutting green fresh wood. 

Finally, compare what you're trying to accomplish with the saw you have.  In the northeast, where we are, good firewood is $150-$300 per cord, depending on your market area.  Let's say best case, $150 a cord for eight cords, that's $1200.  A GOOD new saw, some extra chains, and a selection of tools for maintenance should set you back $500.  Getting someone to teach you how to properly sharpen and maintain your saw is, as they say, priceless.   

[ohsoloco]

bowlofjokes, one thing I noticed was that you said you use a file-n-guide to sharpen your chain.  Is that one of those contraptions that clamps to the bar, holds the file, and slides on some metal rod  ???  I have one of these (I think mine's called a file-n-joint or something like that).  I always thought that thing was foolproof since you can lock in your angles and depth.  Thing is, it flexes so much that I couldn't get my chain sharpened properly.  Best thing I bought was one of those guides that clamps onto the file.  It has reference lines for the proper angle, but best of all it rides on the top of the tooth, so it puts the file at the proper height.  Perhaps this is the one you already have? 

That guide made my sharpening so much better.  I was actually able to bring dull chains back to life that I had previously given up on.  It only took me about four years of owning a chainsaw to learn how to sharpen one, and after seven years I'm still learning  :D

[mburrow]

I have a Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide that I got about 20 years ago and it dont flex, I have seen some cheap ones made with plastic parts that may flex.

bowlofjokes

what size file do you use to sharpen with? mine used eather a 4mm or 4.5mm file
I would suggest to get one of the bar greasing tools as the roller tip bars needs grease in the roller bearings as oil doesn't get to them.
a good saw shop one that someone that uses a saw to make a living would take theres to should tell what is wrong and fix you up honesty and not just try to sell you a new saw

[rebocardo]

A picture of the chips from your cutting and a side profile picture of your chain would help.

My experience has been once a chain has been overheated you can pretty much count on it being junk from that point on. I ran out of oil once (my oil cap fell off) and I didn't notice until the wood started smoking. It pretty much junked the bar and chain.

Once an oil pump failed on a saw and I had to cut down the tree no matter what, I ended up junking two chains then from excessive heat/wear. No matter how sharp they were, they were dull within minutes of use.

[bowlofjokes]

It overheated for sure. Smoke on the wood and smoke from the tip of the bar. The oil bubbled from the heat.
I will try and pick up a new bar and chain this weekend (ughhh Black Friday mania)
and also clean where the oil lubricates the chain; try and see if a wood splinter got jammed in there.

I grab some pic's too for you guys

Thanks, and happy T-day

ADDED 11/23 ---> I took apart as much of my saw as I understand it. Cleaned where the chain oil comes through, flipped the bar, sharpened the chain, and started cutting. Worked great. I was actually cutting straight again. Better than that $5 chain sharpening the shop did. The about 1 tank of gas into it. The bar got hot and started smoking. I could touch it still, just not for too long. Black wood. The chain was on the looser side. What seemed to have happened is the chain oil area got clogged. I hypothesize then no oil getting to chain, instead soaking into saw dust clogged area, too much friction, dulls chain, and smokes because no lubrication.     

[rebocardo]

I think it might be something more then sawdust as sawdust really shouldn't clog anything.

Not knowing much about Homelites, one time on my Husky when I was greasing and cleaning, I did not put the drum back properly over the clutch, so the oil pump was not engaged. Do you think this might have happened with your saw?

[Timburr]

You hypothesize correctly!!

If there is inadequate oil getting to the bar, it could be the bar oil hole doesn't line up with the saw's metering gallery..... a non-standard bar may have been fitted in the past.

Another probable cause is a faulty oil pump.  To check, take off the bar and chain and start saw.  Be aware, with no cover, the clutch is whizzin' around unguarded and there is always the possibility of bits flying off.  Certainly do not throttle (gas it) to extreme.   You will be able to determine the flow of oil, if any. 
Maybe I shouldn't suggest this to a novice!! :