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What's the best blade for for swingmilling?

Started by Dangerous_Dan, November 28, 2007, 09:40:49 AM

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Steve

Hey Captain

Yeah that was a nice visit.  To this day you are the only forum member that I've met in person. Sawmill John was close but I think the beaches got him. If you get out to Oregon you'll have to stop by again. My shop isn't much bigger here but this one has walls!


Steve
Hawaiian Hardwoods Direct
www.curlykoa.com

NZJake

Hey all,

Been here in the back ground reading your posts, makes for some interesting reading as always!

Here's what I think...

The first horizontal cut is less efficient because it is establishing a datum cut, the tooth may deflect up or down starving horspower. The second horizontal cut will be guided by the upper and lower surface of the first cut, focusing the horse power in a specific region (making it easy).

The water through the holes?
Sure I agree that the water will not jump through the holes to the other side of the blade due to the RPM, but when the blade is entering its cut the water is collecting at the edge of the entry to the cut, forcing into the hole. Once the water is within this area it can only got 2 places out the top or out the bottom. I've used both blades with/with out. One is definately better at cooling the blade.


The strobes do a great job at first, but then how do you sharpen them? The strobes will take more and more horse power as they get dull. Simply dress the strobe hole edges without using strobe teeth. This alone will emprove the cut.

Yep Petersons really did need that extra nipple at the end of the secondary to get the water to the vertical blade. They do have the nipple as an upgrade if any one is interested?

Cheers guys always reading. Just my thoughts.



Wife says I woke up one morning half asleep uttering thin kerf and high production, I think I need a hobby other than milling?

Captain

Good to hear from you Jake, you've been gone too long.
:)
Captain

LOGDOG

Here's a link for y'all that I came across. Very good stuff. Would be something good to save to your document file for reference.

LOGDOG

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf

Firebass

Well I've had a chance to do some real sawing since I got my engine running on both cylinders. 

I  have to say it cuts like a dream now.  The only thing I can say about the cutting action is if I push it too fast and hit a knot or stress wood the blade sometimes will deflect a bit but I can shove it through the log at a ridiculously fast rate.    Today I was messing around and shoved the saw so fast in the log it made the Vee belts squeak ;D ;D  I really don't need to go there but wanted to see what "wood" happened ;).   I know I would have the power to add more teeth.  My guess is more teeth=more Gullet=faster chip removal=faster feed rate, at least till you run out of power???.   Soon as I can I will order one of the Captains blades.  It'll be fun to see the differance.  I don't think I like the Idea of a thin kerf circle blades because of the deflection issue.  In my opinion I think we should let the band saws keep the well deserved title of "Thin Kerf"

Firebass

wtf

I retip my blades some of the time( don't have the time to do it all the time) It is patterned after a Peterson jig and it works very well; better than my saw doc. They just bought me a blade because they messed up. I will be retipping all of my blades from now on. I get my tips from B.H.Payne right now and Peterson, anyone have any good sources?

Russ 
Russ

scsmith42

Russ, Timberpro is a FF sponsor and our resident Peterson expert.  They stock carbide tips, silver solder, flux, retipping fixtures - you name it.

Their carbide quality is a bit higher then the average wood carbide too.

You can get to their web site by clicking the link to the below left.

Scott
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

wtf

Scott, Thanks, I 'll get in touch with Timberpro.
Russ

Drew b

I've just registered and have read the thread here.  Been milling for about 22 years part time with a band mill and milling for 150 hours with a Lucas.  Western Red Cedar is no problem but the Fir can be tough.  Hate to say it but I'm delighted to see that others are having the same problems with blades having a mind of their own.  About ready to render my mill to the deep six but now have some faith!  Many great posts and hints and am greatful for the effort.  My problems have been in the vertical cut 8" deep and the blade pulling (away from the arbor) and binding.  Seems to be tension related.  Loss of blade tension is inversely related to my tension.  I've read that it takes only a small degree of heat to lose tension.  I agree that it would be interesting to put some water on the far side of the blade and will try some ideas.  Again, great to be here and thanks for all the input.

brdmkr

Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

chep

I just read a good portion of this thread and it really rocked my world!!! Glad the forum exists and figured that any new swingmillers should read this thread.
A wealth of information!!!!! 8)

red

This post on swing mills had lots of good info ,  as it's ten years old some info has changed .  Doing searches on any of the people posting is a great place to start a swingmill education.
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