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SCANDINAVIAN SCRIBE METHODS

Started by UNCLEBUCK, June 10, 2003, 12:15:02 AM

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UNCLEBUCK

yeah all that means is you better have a good chainsaw ! I can answer most questions to this kind of log method and thought I would post this to get more people who have cabins to start posting there pictures and comments !  I will enjoy following the updates to sawinmontana , it makes the old scandinavian methods look prehistoric ! so if anyone is having troubles with this kind of log building method feel free to ask ok !  :P
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

UNCLEBUCK

i be home on weekends to answer anyones questions ok ! bye now !  :P
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

Jeff

I wonder if thats what I used on my benches?
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

DanG

UNKLEBUCK, are you what is known as a Finnish carpenter? ::)
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Jeff

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

ohsoloco


Jeff

What does an actual scribe look like and how is it used? I made a scribe by screwing two rulers to each other at the end and taping a pencil to one. ;D

well, it worked.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

ohsoloco

Jeff, that sounds like a DanG fine log scribe to me  ;)  Lee Valley sells one that looks like this:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=41144&category=1,41131&ccurrency=2&SID=

UNCLEBUCK

yeah everybody is correct ! basically its a big pencil compass with a bubble level attached at some point and it just transfers the top of the bottom log to the bottom of the top log and when your done scribing the complete log and bring it down to ground level and roll it over you have lines to follow with a chainsaw and you end up with a kind of hollow area then roll and staple in sill seal fiberglass insulation and then put the log back up on the wall and roll it over into place and it should fit like a glove and with allowances made on the log ends and top of notches it will be called shrink fit notches,gets tighter with age and more weight, then youre done ! the outside wall looks just like the inside , the more knots and uglier the log the prettier it looks when its done ! ok
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

C_Miller

The guy up the road does a  style where he cuts a lateral in both logs. he says it gives a tighter joint. I'm still amazed at how well he handles a chainsaw to follow the lines.  I have a hard time with a coloring book.
CJM

UNCLEBUCK

thats sounds neat, never tried that !  kind of nice to leave the top of the log below round on top for any possible moisture to dissappear from. except the notch area has a scarf shaped into it for compression as the years go by and gravity to do its magic !  i be reading timberframing books now and am ready to give it a go, they sure are pretty structures ! plus you dont have to hand peel the logs, just throw them on the mill , feels like carpentry again !  :P
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

Scotty2

You can find descriptions and photos of several types of scribers at:

http://www.loghomestore.com/tools2.shtml#scribers

Regards, Scotty2

blue_eyed_devil

I have been building a log house for my parents using the double-cut lateral that was mentioned above.Here is a picture of my Mackie scriber

262 xp,395 xp,built my own chainsaw mill

blue_eyed_devil

Pic of me cutting the tracer cuts.
This is my first attempt a building a log house.The hardest part of this venture was peeling all the logs.I  built alot of specialized tools which was fun!
I'm getting close to installing the log floor joists.

262 xp,395 xp,built my own chainsaw mill

UNCLEBUCK

nice picture Blue ! I built my first log cabin 20 years ago for my folks too! didnt know what I was gettin in to when dad sent me to log building school. my teacher went to the mackie school so i guess i learned it right the first time ! had 165 huge norways to peel when i got home from log school, ended up with  70 foot purlins but had to let them dry for a year but it worked out fine ! ended up buying a big old 25 ton Bay City truck crane for saftey reasons with a 90 foot boom for 1000 $,still runs great ! anyway good luck and keep postin the pics ! thanks ! :P
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

blue_eyed_devil

Today , I started endbolting (splicing) my 60 foot logs over a mid wall notch.This gets rid of most of the sweep found in long logs and allows for longer walls.After the log on the right is final scribed into position.I make a 2 foot long x 3/4" wide saw kerf  across the joint. 3 inch holes are  drilled at both ends of the kerf.I plunge cut a flat on the side of the hole for placement of a large timber washer/nut.Then a piece of all thread is dropped in, bolting the logs together.Everything is galvanized.Untreated metal will leave rust stains everywhere.
262 xp,395 xp,built my own chainsaw mill

blue_eyed_devil

Finally above the doors this weekend (header logs), feels pretty good ;D. I've got a ways to go yet though. One double log beam, six floor joist, two trusses,a ridgepole and some posts.I'm gonna cut the windows out last.
262 xp,395 xp,built my own chainsaw mill

Jim_Rogers

Is it hard to tighten up that threaded rod? Jim
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

UNCLEBUCK

hey blue !  great pictures !  you sound committed to finish asap !  I like how deep you peeled your logs and how smooth they look. The first time I peeled logs I left the cambium layer on and the big norways were beautiful almost a tiger striping effect but by the time I got done and got a roof on, the cambium layer dried and cracked and faded and looked awful so I had it sandblasted then gobbed on the sikkens and saved "the ark" as my dad calls it ! good job ! very very nice !
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

blue_eyed_devil

Jim
Nope, not hard,I'll post a close up tomorrow.
Thanks for your nice comments Uncle Buck.I spent months and months peeling these logs.It was more difficult because I bought the logs from the local mill.They had been through the delimber,so you can imagine the damage I had to deal with.The spike rolls on those things, leave horendous tracks down each side of the logs.I made a bunch of drawknives for peeling.The ones in the store were way too narrow (kept skinning my knuckles)
I got used industrial planer blades for free at the mill, just welded some square stock to them for a handle and gripped  it with hockey tape.I got fancy with the last one and made cork grips They work best with the bevel side down and sharpened at about  20 - 25  degree angle .

262 xp,395 xp,built my own chainsaw mill

UNCLEBUCK

I agree that store bought drawknives are a joke ! I used old sye ("sigh") blades like from the hand held old time ones found at auctions because they would sharpen up great and ranged from 2 to almost 2-1/2 feet from end to end . Even if you have to hire some day helpers once in awhile throughout the project just keep on pluggin away until you get a roof on it. A neighbor and his wife built a big log cabin and it was several years before they got close to puttin a roof over it and all their efforts turned rotten . So once you get to that point then you can take a break and rest the sore muscles ! lookin good from here !  
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

UNCLEBUCK

hi everyone ! here is a pic of the log floor joists and purlins and kind of see a post back there somewhere, this is red pine "norways" ! this is the basement of dads cabin lookin upwards, the loft floor joist is the same kind of set up minus the posts because the loft floor joists ride on the bottom chord of log truss and log wall , the posts in this pic have a 2 inch threaded bolt and washer under each post and through the years i have had to turn the big nut to snug the post back up to the purlin ! used a double scribed square notch on some and other just a regular saddle type notch !the joists were flat sided one side with a homemade 2 man bar on a regular husky chainsaw !

UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

UNCLEBUCK

hey good deal my pic went through ok, forgot to say that all the logs were hand peeled but you can see at one time there was a beautiful tiger striped cambium layer on these logs but this is after the sandblasting lightly , after 20 years the logs have not had any type of finish yet, this cabin is still not finished ,hee hee, pops got sick and ran short on cash so i work on it when i can ! the rocks were free from the neighbors farm field ,had to buy the 2x6 t&g pine flooring 20 years ago other than that its just a challenge mentally to keep excited but its very close to finished , another 2 years haha :P
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

UNCLEBUCK

i meant to say that after 20 years the interior logs and walls have not had any type of finish yet, the exterior got 078 sikkens the day after the light sandblasting 20 years ago ! about every 5 years i mop on the sikkens to the exterior ! the only reason for buying a old truck crane was because i was working over a walk-out basement and had to have a old mechanical type crane that would swing the logs on and off with ease ! this cabin didnt seem very big on scratch paper and pencil when we first ventured into this project but when the log trucks all showed up at once we took a deep breath and realized its too late to turn back now ! hee hee :P
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

UNCLEBUCK

Hey Blue !  I hope you show more progress pictures, your scribing methods seem to be the latest info hot off the press, its very interesting to see the double scribe way ! ;D
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

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