Stihl MS460

[Good Feller]

I'm concerned about my MS 460.  Seems like everytime I run it (the whole bar inside wood)  it runs out of power.  I put dual bucking spikes on it and they are worthless.  If I use the spikes to get leverage while cutting the chain instantly quits moving and the saw bogs down.  What's the deal?  I haven't had it very long (Maybe 10 tank fillings of gas).  I use the recommended gas/oil mixture, keep the entire saw clean, and chain razor sharp.  Other than that it seems like it runs great.  It just won't pull a full 25 inch bar which doesn't impress me considering how much I payed for it.  Any thoughts would be appreciated.... thanks   

[Rocky_J]

Either adjust the carb correctly or take it back to your dealer and let him adjust it. It's likely running too lean.

[Kevin]

Is the air filter clean?

[Good Feller]

The air filter is clean.  I'm scared to mess with the carb adjustments.... No experience with that.  What steps are taken if it's too lean.... which way do I turn the screws?   
It runs good and idles fine.  Is it possible that it's just not broke in yet?   

[John Mc]

By any chance, does it cut well when you start the cut, but bog down once you get deep enough for the back side of the bar to enter the cut? If so, you may have a bent/twisted bar, or possible the rails on your bar are worn unevenly (causing the chain to try to track off in in different direction than the bar is aimed).

John Mc

[Good Feller]

Ok I read up on carb adjusting....  I took a flashlight and looked down at the screws.  They appear to be in the recommended setting.  So maybe I need to adjust the H screw- turn it counterclockwise a little bit more to richin it up at high rpms?

I ran it today,,,, so do I need to clean the air filter before jacking around with the carb?  

How lean does it have to run before damage to the engine results?  My saw bogs down and the chain quits moving at high rpm in full wood but it never has died.  I hope I haven't damaged it.    

John Mc

I don't think the bar is bent or worn unevenly.  The saw has always done this even when the bar was new. 

[Reddog]

Good feller,
We need to know a few things first.
1. What chain are you running?
2. Does this happen with new chain?
3. What type of wood are cutting? Does it happen in all wood?
4. How many tooth sprocket is it running?

With this info I can under stand what you are expecting the saw to do. 

[beenthere]

Good Feller
What can you tell us about how you sharpened the chain...and how were the rakers filed to the correct height?  Just a thought that you may be taking too big a bite.

Your comment about the bucking spikes leads me to think you are not letting the saw rev up and cut, feeling that you need to force it into the cut with the spikes. Using the spikes on a bucking cut shouldn't be necessary, IMO, with a sharp chain and the rakers set right.

Just thinkin outloud here.  

[Good Feller]

1.  I think it's some sort of square chisel (came from the store with it on)...  3/8" pitch 84 drivers 
2.  It happens in all wood,,, oak, elm, maple etc.
3.  The rim sprocket is 3/8 - 7 

I sharpen it with one of those husky jigs (it's a little blue deal that sits on the chain and has two little roll pins that you roll a 7/32 file over and it keeps the correct angle).  I filed the rackers down last time.... maybe I went too far?  I was wondering if I screwed up sharpening this chain.  It throws chips and cuts easy after I sharpen it though.

[beenthere]

Did you use the flat file guide on the blue husky jig to file the rakers? or free hand file them?

Don't think you can go wrong if you used the guide...on the hardwood setting anyway. 

I find that blue guide very handy. 

[isawlogs]

 
Hold off on screwing around with your carb if you are not one of expirience with that .
I would strongly sugest that you go get a new chain and try it out first . I am suspecting that you took those rakers down too far and are using more leverage then the saw can take with the rakers filed down bogging your saw .
  Those spikes take quite a bite and add a lot of leverage to a saw , one must be carefull while sawing with them , they are mostly used for falling , not for bucking .

[Good Feller]

Yep that's the blue jig I use for sharpening chain.  I use a different jig for the rakers (it fits over the rakers and I file off the excess that sticks up and shoot for .026 lower than the top point part of the tooth).  I've got a new chain here at home (it's round chisel).  I'll try putting it on.  Round chisel is easier to file/sharpen isn't it?  I've heard square chisel cuts better but you have to know how to sharpen,,, and apparently there is a trick to it. 

One thing I did notice a couple times today was that the saw was producing extremely long chips.... they were more like strings,,, 2-3" long.   

When I took the professional timber harvester course the instructor said to sharpen chain that comes straight from the factory before you use it.  He even proved to us by using a factory new chain and a factory new chain he sharpened first.  The one he sharpened first cut like butter compared to the unsharpened new chain.   

[Reddog]

I am with Isawlogs, Wait on adjusting the carb.

Two things I would suggest.
1. chains, try a new one. I find the Sthil chain to be sharp from the box.
Also my advice would be to try a skip chain and see what you think. It will let the saw stay reved in the cut easier.
On my 440,441 and 046 I run skip chain on any bar over 20". I jump from 20 to 28" in my line up.

2. Clean the air filter. I find on the 440, and 046 in dusty wood I need to clean them every two to four tanks of fuel.

If after this you still find it slowing in the cut. You are most likely putting to much pressure on it.

One of the best mod's for a 460 is putting on the 046 dual port muffler cover. It is avalible from the dealer. But you will need to have the carb adjusted after that.

[jokers]

Any saw can be stalled in the cut if you really reef on it. Learn how to load the saw`s engine properly, push hard enough to get all the chips you can while letting the engine stay in the powerband, which is about 9,500 rpms on the 460, it should free rev about 13,500 out of the cut.