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Author Topic: Central Boiler E-Classic 2300  (Read 7861 times)

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Offline needful

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Central Boiler E-Classic 2300
« on: September 06, 2008, 03:37:32 PM »
Hi everybody,
i just joined this forum and i am so happy for all the info on the E-classic 2300.
I will get mine in a couple of weeks and i can't wait to say goodbye to oil. I live in the Yukon, Canada near Whitehorse and the temperatures can be pretty low - 40 and more for a month or more at times.
I heat about 7000 square feet in two buildings and we will see how the boiler performs with those temperatures. The oil fired system i have right now is one of the best one can get (Viessmann Vitola 200) but, i am using 6500 liters of oil every year. (Sorry, for you guys this will be about 1810 Gallons.) $ 1.30 a liter = $ 8450.00 thats just insane.
I dug the trench, got all the lines in and the power, all i have to do install the boiler and the plate heat exchanger. I hope i can give everybody an update in a few weeks.
Cheers
Rob
 8)

Offline OneWithWood

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Re: Central Boiler E-Classic 2300
« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2008, 11:00:57 AM »
Congrats, Rob.  And welcome to the forum  8)
I will be interested to see how much wood you go through.  I am operating a CB7260 and if I use only wood I will go through 20 cord (60 rick) per year.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Offline Hackberry

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Re: Central Boiler E-Classic 2300
« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2008, 05:59:27 PM »
Hi guys, I'm also a new member who has been following the e classic posts.  I hope they live up to there hipe.  Mine is do mid Nov. Next week I start digging 200' to the house and 60' to the shop. I also have a side arm for the DHW.  Have been looking at ODWB for about 3 years and I hope I'll be glad I waited.  What broke the camels back was a contract price of 2.299 for LP. I have been burning wood for 20 years in an insert but still bought about 1600 gals of LP.  I 'll take pics as the project takes off and post and hopefully we will all be happy as clams next year at this time. Best of luck, Hackberry

Offline thecfarm

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Re: Central Boiler E-Classic 2300
« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2008, 07:45:58 PM »
Hackberry,welcome to the forum.You will be happy as clams.You will have it just about paid off by the end of the heating season with LP at $2.29.You know it will go up more as years go on too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline GF

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Re: Central Boiler E-Classic 2300
« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2008, 04:46:39 PM »
Keep up the info and feedback on these units, I am looking to see how well they operate.

GF

Offline jocko

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Re: Central Boiler E-Classic 2300
« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2008, 01:39:07 PM »
Well - it's too funny.  I am yet another rookie who just signed in here:  following the E-Classic posting. 

I should get mine by the end of October.  I wish I had acted sooner. 

My neighbor has the CB6048 and loves it.  He is the main reason I became interested in OWF's.    I live on 4 acres in a neighborhood on a hill and visible to all.  I live in NJ - which is full of tree huggers and soon to adopt the same regulations as VT, NH etc.  In obtaining my permits,  the local inspector gave us a copy of the NJ DEP visible smoke ordinace that prohibits smoke from outdoor wood boilers, and will fine you if your unit shows more than 3 minutes of smoke per 30 minutes of use.

Because I am on a hill top with no where to hide,  I chose the E-Classic and have my fingers crossed that the smoke will not get me fined.  I never see smoke from my neighbors and I doubt my neighbors will complain about mine - once I get it.

I liked the smaller fire box and I don't mind using smaller dry hardwood -  even my wife can feed it.  And the E-classic has 450 gallons which is more than the 6048.  I really agonized the decision between the Classic and the E-Classic since the E is more expensive.  The difference may have offset the installation costs of the Classic 6048 and being that it has the approval of the EPA and surpasses their next two standards,  I should have some amunition to fight with - encase I get blasted by the locals.

I have a 4500 SF Single Family with two propane forced air (trane) heaters with a/c.  One is in the basement which is unfinished and unisulated (so the ductwork gets cold).  The other is in the attic- which has insulated flex ductwork,  but the attic air is freezing in the winter.  I live in Northern NJ and not too far from two ski areas and the Appilatian trail.  It isn't Canada,  but it gets cold.  Last year I went over $ 5000 in propane for the winter. It was our first winter in this house and we just moved here in fall 07.   I swore I would find a solution.  I considered stoves, pellet, corn...... everything.  Pellets are hard to find at times - but I should have no problem getting wood free and worst case, buying some.  Everything I considered would only suppliment my propane use.  (my prepay offer was $ 3.79 a gallon) and my monthly budget $ 529.  I am hoping this will eliminate my use of propane all winter long.  Even if I buy wood -  6 chords will cost less than 1 filling of my 500 gal tank which would only last me 4 weeks. 
 
I wanted to do the install myself,  but it looks like I will be assiting the dealer installer. 

Does anyone have a OWF with force air?   Becuase my HVAC units are small,  the plentum is only 17x20.  I wish I could put a much larger heat exchanger in -  I may only be able to fit two 139K's .   I hope this will do.  The propane heaters are 74K so this is a step up.    The other issue is -  I have to find space for the heat exchangers below the a/c A coil,  because if I don't,  I will freeze and damage the heat exchanger come summer when the OWF is off and I am running A/C.    Anybody else have to deal with this?

I would also like to avoid drilling through my concrete basement foundation and simply bring the thermopex in through a 6 inch hole with a PVC collar through the wood sill plate instead,  but I think the local inspector is going to make me bury it deep and drill.   I would like to also avoid the cost of the thermopex,  but its a short run to the house and I feel - I might as well do it right.   I also went with a precast concrete foundation.  It was $ 350  and I can't form and order concrete for less than that. 

I am going to use a shell for the HWH,  so my E-classic will heat my house and hot water.  Once I get it up and going,  this winter - I plan on finishing and insulating the basement - and I will also use some sort of hydronic heat off the unit to heat that.  I may also hang a heater in my garage,   but for now......  I am trying not to bite off too much at one time.

I will try to post my success and failures and hopefully others will learn.  I already know to check for the flue cap!!!  Enjoyed the photos and blog so far.  Keep them coming.

Offline thecfarm

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Re: Central Boiler E-Classic 2300
« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2008, 10:05:55 PM »
My heat exchangers are almost 18½ inches square,86000 BTU.That is without the fan behind it.You probably will be using your furnace blower?That is what I did.I do have 2 more with fans behind them.I put a speed control on the one in the basement so it runs at a slower speed,but it's alot less noise that way.There must be a heat exchanger that will fit your plentum.If not,just make another one that will go from 17X20 to whatever size your heat exchangers are back to 17X20.Ask whoever is going to install it.I had 2 great guys that really did a super job for me.I would drill through the foundation.It's very easy.I went to a rental place and told them what I wanted to do and they set me up.I have another hook up for another line all set to go on,when and if I ever get a garage for me.Dry your wood the way you would if you had a stove in your house and I feel this helps out on the smoke issue.I burn alot of junk wood in mine and I notice the difference when I burn good seasoned hardwood.I used mine all summer to heat the hot water.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline wannabeonetoo

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Re: Central Boiler E-Classic 2300
« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2008, 12:08:38 AM »
My water to air heat exchanger is approx. 18x18x3 1/2 and 120k btu's. I installed mine in the cold air return side of my furnace because there was no room, due to my a/c coil.Other guys I know have done this also, and mine works just fine.I had a " Tin Knocker " make up a section of duct work to house the heating coil with accommodation for an extra filter, (I use the cheapie 20 x 20 x1 type )above the coil to try and keep as much dust out of the fins as possible.
If you do go above your a/c coils,connect heating coils to pex using brass union couplers and remove coils at beginning of cooling season (oh yeah,put in shut off ball valves everywhere possible ,it's cheap insurance if you need to issolate something and remove the coils to switch to cooling). 
Definately go below grade with your pipes (now is not the time to be lazy or cut corners),you said you wanted to do it right !
I'm sure two 139 k units will suffice !! My house is 2400sq. ft. bungalow with in floor ht. in the basement and the 120k heater works fine.
If you can do it try to find an old cast iron rad. and plumb this in somewhere near a door where you come in from winter chores to hang mitts & "stuff" to dry or keep warm (also train the kids to hang stuff there too !!),there is nothing nicer than heading out with pre-warmed dry gear ;D
  Have fun....
       Steve

Offline jocko

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Re: Central Boiler E-Classic 2300
« Reply #8 on: September 15, 2008, 08:03:51 AM »
Thanks for the info guys!

I actually got in touch with an Anderson Outdoors and they have a triple thick exchanger that is an exact fit for both my units.  They said they do go above the A/C coil and the guy who told me that it will freeze is wrong and doesn't know what he's doing.  So maybe I will be doing the install myself.   Do you simply cut a hole in the sheet metal,  add some angle iron for a shelve and then slide it in?  Should be easy to install.  Anybody know a blog with pictures of a heat exchanger install?  The pex pipe connects are easier then my son's lego's.  The only other thing I might need some help with is the shell exchanger on my HWH - but I am good at soldiering copper - so I may just go for it.

I understand I can rent a core driller - I just wince at the thought of cutting a 6 inch hole in my basement.  But - I will to do it right.

Offline wannabeonetoo

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Re: Central Boiler E-Classic 2300
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2008, 08:35:38 AM »
Yep , you got it right,just measure where you want it to go,cut, screw in angle (for a shelf),slide in,hook up, custom fabricate a little sheetmetal cover, screw in place (take care to watch out for coil if a tight fit  ;))duct tape (maybe after system is up and running and leak check !!)<turn pumps on ,stoke fire,sit back and marvel at your handy-work (with a celebratory beverage in hand  8)  8)).
    Oh yeah... best of all,blow a kiss good-bye to those theiving oil companies  ;D.
   Steve


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