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Author Topic: Granbery chainsaw mill - used one before  (Read 17472 times)

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Offline bck

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Re: Granbery chainsaw mill - used one before
« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2009, 03:22:45 PM »
bck,

I have a 10-12 ft al-ladder too.  However, I believe the logs i am going to be cutting are much less in dia than most of you guys.  Therefore, i will need something that will anchor better on the first pass, something with the rails closer together.

If someone was going to cut 12-14" logs, what would be the best rail configuration?  Could you use two straight 2X4's, connected at the ends and 2-3 equal parts in the middle?  Would it help to cut a shallow ellipse on the bottoms of the 2X4 joining the rails to fit the trunk, then shim where necessary.

Finally, how do you keep the rails steady when moving the chainsaw?

Thank you for your help guys.

Be safe,
tom

I usually only use mine for logs to large for the sawmill, but for a smaller log you could just screw a board to each end. Use a board thats long enough to support the ladder, keep a 2x4, 2x5, 2x6, 2x8, etc... handy and fasten that to the end of the log then I screw the ladder to that. The different widths will allow you to keep the pith in one board usually.  I dont actually screw through the ladder but I have a couple washers on the screw and the washers hold the ladder . Then maybe shim the ladder in the middle somewhere. Thats usually steady enough for me. 
 I have seen rail setups that have two long pieces of metal rail and they are attached by threaded rod and that looks easy to adjust to different size logs. I'm to lazy for that  ;).
 There is a book," chainsaw lumbermaking" and the way he does it is he pulls a string the length of the log and screws lag bolts every foot or so down the log so they are the same height. He then uses a 2x10 with angle iron under it that rest on the lag bolts. The 2x10 is usually shorter than the log but he will just slide it down when he gets near the end.  It is a great book to read but is out of print and they sell for big bucks. I think I paid $60 for my copy on ebay, read it and sold it for $75.

Offline JV

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Re: Granbery chainsaw mill - used one before
« Reply #21 on: January 19, 2009, 09:22:44 PM »
This the setup I use.  2x4's on edge overhanging the log by 12 to 18" to hang the saw on to start.  The crossmember is 1" square tubing nailed to the face of the log.  I use duplex nails, easier to pull.  You could use T-slot tubing or perforated aluminum angle iron for easier width adjustment.  The tops of the 2x4's are counterbored to get the bolts below the top surface.  I nail a scrap board on the other end and in case of extreme taper, nail two 2x6's together in a "T" to get height adjustment.  If you are lucky enough to find aluminum square tubing cheap, it sure saves on weight.  I use 3/8" all-thread for stiffener in three places on a 16' rail.

 



The log drawn is 14" diameter and the rest is true to scale.
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

Offline tcsmpsi

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Re: Granbery chainsaw mill - used one before
« Reply #22 on: January 20, 2009, 01:25:00 PM »
tstex

There's not someone around with a bandmill who would mill your cedar on halves? 
\\\"In the end, it is a moral question as to whether man applies what he has learned or not.\\\" - C. Jung

Offline Brucer

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Re: Granbery chainsaw mill - used one before
« Reply #23 on: January 21, 2009, 01:12:13 AM »
I used mine for 20 years before I bought a Wood-Mizer.

Guide board was a 12' - 2x12 with a pair of 3/16 x 2" angles screwed to the underside.

I'd lag-screw a piece of 2x12 to each end of the log (lining the tops up by eye), and then sink a series of 3/8 lag bolts about 4' apart into the top of the log in two rows from one end to the other. I'd stretch a line across the tops of the end-boards and screw the lag bolts in or out so they were all level. Then it was a matter of setting the guide board on top of the screws. For logs longer than 12', I'd just stop the saw as I neared the end of the guide board and then slide the board along to the next set of screws.

It worked pretty slick as long as I made sure my lag bolts didn't stick down below the bar :(.

Some kerf wedges about 1/32 thicker than the width of the chain will keep the cut open so the chain doesn't chew up the log as it returns along the backof the bar. Didn't take me long to figure out to paint those wedges red -- a lot easier to find in a heap of sawdust.

I filed regular chain straight across (0 degrees) with the file set about 1/32 lower than normal. That gave me a tooth angle of about 45 degrees instead of the 80 degrees or so you normally file to. Oregon now makes a ripping chain with a 10 degree top angle and a 50 degree tooth angle, and that's supposed to work even better.

I powered my mill with a 70 CC Jonsered and I always wished I gone to 90 - 100 CC. I never fooled around with the fuel-oil mix. I just opened up the high speed jet a little to make it run richer. That will automatically put more oil into the engine. I was sawing mainly Western Red Cedar and I still didn't figure 70 CC was enough.

'Twas a lot of hard work, and tough on the back. Eating fumes was no fun either. I'm glad to be using the Wood-Mizer, and the chainsaw mill has long been sold off. But ya know, that old chain mill did give me a better finish and a more consistant thickness than the orange machine.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw with two 6' extensions.
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Offline bck

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Re: Granbery chainsaw mill - used one before
« Reply #24 on: January 21, 2009, 01:56:25 PM »

Some kerf wedges about 1/32 thicker than the width of the chain will keep the cut open so the chain doesn't chew up the log as it returns along the backof the bar. 

 smiley_lit_bulb  learn somethin new every day.  I havnt worried with wedges mainly because the saw had enough power to keep cutting. Never thought about I was chewing up the board  ::)  Thanks Brucer

Offline Sprucegum

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Re: Granbery chainsaw mill - used one before
« Reply #25 on: January 21, 2009, 02:25:58 PM »
I have used a Husky 359 with 20" bar on a home-made setup
 


 


 


You can see the rails are screwed onto the log, with screws short enough to miss the chain. I have cut boards from 8 to 14 inches wide and 12 feet long.


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