belt sander

[Alexis]

hello everyone,

in my tf classes, we were using the plane and especially the rabbet plane a lot... I'm wondering if some of you are using a belt sander to do the final paring of a tenon... it's seems like it would make a precise flat surface, like a power rabbet plane...

what do you think

Alexis

[swampfox]

Hi alexis.  Too much time and too much dust.  Chisel, slick, or i like to use Stanley #5 or similiar bench plane.  If your sawcuts are close enough the plane will work.  In my opinion a belt sander has no place in joinery work.  Just make sure if you are planing to stand on the right side of the timber (bloody knuckles)

[scgargoyle]

It's actually hard to get a really flat surface with a belt sander. The belt has just enough give to have a tendency to round corners and make the edges lower than the middle. I used to try to use one in boat building, with poor results.

[moonhill]

If you are going to go in that direction maybe try a large grinder with a 40 grit disc.  I prefer my axe and slick.  If you are already using a skillsaw take half the line and be done with it.  If it is a bit too small, at least it will fit.  Make up a go-no-go gauge and test the tenon.  Just pay attention to the lines.

Tim

[shinnlinger]

I too prefer a sharp chisel, but have been known to to use my grinder with a sanding disc from time to time....YOu can get it tighter and have more control than a belt sander....

[Alexis]

Are you able to do a flat surface with the grinder? do you remove the plastic protection that cover half of the disc?

[shinnlinger]

For some reason the protective guards seem to fall off my grinders in short order...I really don't deliberately remove them or abuse them, but none of my grinders have guards so I can't comment as to wether they would interfere or not.

As far as flat goes, I suppose a  9 inch sanding disc mounted on a grinder with the guard removed (Or a real 9 inch grinder) could flat a 4 inch tenon in one pass and if it really matters, you could pencil in a line and sand to that with a smaller one, but what I ussually do is if something is a little fat, I take it off by eye with a 4 inch disc.  With a little practice you can get pretty good at this, but I try not to make a habit of it, rather I have done it more than a few times. 

I much prefer a sharp chisel for this.  Learn to keep your tools sharp and you will be much happier!  COme to think of it, most of my grinding experience was before I learned how to sharpen.  I used to be afraid to mess up my chisel by sharpening it wrong, and that would mean I was working with dull tools and lent itself to use a grinder.  Now that I know what I am doing(hah!)  it is easy to keep a sharp chisel.

[bigshow]

Slick or plane.  Though, I'm all for people finding their own way - but, the amount of belts you'll go thru..and the cost. I've found belts for ~$2 online, locally they are ~$6.  You kiss an edge just wrong..boom torn belt.  Its gonna be pricey.

The grinder - your gonna have semi-circle gouges everywhere.  Its just a tenon - but, i like to have a nice, smooth, and pretty tenon upon completion...just a pride thing (and knowing there isnt any splinters or hang ups when assembling.)

[moonhill]

Speaking of sharp tools.....if you use a grinder, what is the chance of it leaving behind grit?  If this happens I shiver at the thought of using a sharp tool of mine on the same stick of wood.  It's almost like walking on the timber with dirty boots, or a board pile while placing stickers.   

Tim

[Jim_Rogers]

One of the un-spoken rule of timber framing is to "never walk on your timbers"......

This could leave foot prints on your frame and they are a real chore to remove later when the frame is standing.....

Jim Rogers