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The clinometer is easy to use and not expensive. If you get a loggers tape like has been said, you can get a "nail" that attaches to the end of the tape. That allows you to stick the nail in the tree, then walk back 66 feet while the tape reels out. You then look at the point you want to measure through the clinometer using the 1:66 scale, and you can read the height directly on the clinometer. There is a trick to looking at the point up the tree and looking at the scale at the same time, but you keep both eyes open, one looks at the tree, the other reads the scale.I really love the loggers tapes with feet on one side of the tape and diameter on the other. It is easy to walk up to the tree, put the tape around it to measure diameter, stick the nail in the bark and back up 66 feet and shoot the height. That is the old fashioned way to do it .

If you had a folding square with a level on one arm and able to open it up to a 45 degree arc to the other arm, hold the square base level and site along the upper arm (45 degrees) and measure to the tree, add height from ground to eye level. Tangent (45) is 1. Trees on slopes where you can't reach up to the level mark you'll benefit from a clinometer and stand back where top minus bottom shot is 100 percent (45 degrees). Remember a (-) negative minus a (-) negative is actually added. Measure to the stump, same as height.top shot 80 - (-20 bottom shot)= 100 percent (percent clinometer)If your using a "chain" clinometer 45 degrees is 66 feet "15m" 15 metres "20m" 20 metresetc

Thanks for the advice. I have the Spencer "Flasher" tape, which is 66'. I just ordered a refill from Bailey's, and I have a nail for it around here somewhere. Looks like the clinometer is about $120 from Bailey's. I'll have to order one.

Don't think he is going this route. The only real accurate way to do it is to cut the tree down and measure it.

Started by chainspinrunner on Ask The Forester

Started by joepye on Ask The Forester